Hpi Pro 4
What should I try and target for a rollout? I'm using a stock motor and foam tires.
I have searched this thread and the search didn't seem to be very helpful. Maybe I'm just looking the wrong way.
Thanks for the help on this.
I have searched this thread and the search didn't seem to be very helpful. Maybe I'm just looking the wrong way.
Thanks for the help on this.
Hi, I'm looking to run this car as a sort of asphalt basher. I was wondering whether or not the pro 4 was a good choice for that. I'd raise it up as high as I can, but im not sure if the chassis design is all that good for my purpose. Am I stuck with a tube design for my purpose? I'm not abusing the car, but it isn't a race track.
Hope you not doing any jumps or anything with it lol
Richard
Richard
Ohh, of course not. Just testing the waters.
Does anyone have a set up for rubbers with a oneway on asphault? There's only Thad's setup for SoCal raceway. Will that put me in the general ball park? It's definately too cold for 36R's, and we don't use traction compounds here. Why would they include a one-way if the spool is clearly used more?
-Josh
-Josh
Asphalt foam setup
Sorry it took me a while to post been veru busy. I have used this setup with foams and rubber on prepared asphalt with good success.
Hara chassis plus more
Front
one-way diff
4 degree blocks
0 toe
white springs with 40wt oil
outer hole on bottom, 2nd hole from outside on top
rear inner hole for camber link with 2mm spacer (I have the carbon fiber mounts)
black swaybar
2mm block spacers front and rear
Rear
3 degree toe
pink springs with 30wt oil
middle hole on bottom, 2nd hole from outside on top
rear inner hole for camber link with 1mm spacer (I have the carbon fiber mounts)
copper swaybar
2.5mm block spacers front and rear
5.5mm ride height front and rear
droop settings are what ever the manual recomends for initial setup
I have run this in stock and mod, stock it is planted, mod the rear is a little loose off power but I like it that way.
Hara chassis plus more
Front
one-way diff
4 degree blocks
0 toe
white springs with 40wt oil
outer hole on bottom, 2nd hole from outside on top
rear inner hole for camber link with 2mm spacer (I have the carbon fiber mounts)
black swaybar
2mm block spacers front and rear
Rear
3 degree toe
pink springs with 30wt oil
middle hole on bottom, 2nd hole from outside on top
rear inner hole for camber link with 1mm spacer (I have the carbon fiber mounts)
copper swaybar
2.5mm block spacers front and rear
5.5mm ride height front and rear
droop settings are what ever the manual recomends for initial setup
I have run this in stock and mod, stock it is planted, mod the rear is a little loose off power but I like it that way.
Originally Posted by jamescam
Is HPI oil on par with Associated Oil? I want to duplicate Hara's ROAR Nats Asphalt set up and it calls for 45 in front & 35 in back but no LHS carries HPI oil. Will 45 & 35 Associated Oil be on par?
I’ve copied Andy Moores set-ups in the past, he states HPI oils but I’ve just used AE’s. Used the same oil weight and the car has been spot on.
here are pros and cons of ea camber plate
graphite: pros: cheap, the screws no longer stick up high enuf, so you dont have to do upper deck mod. lightweight cons: must use nut to hold ballstud in place (sux), only has 4 screw holes
aluminum: pros: holes are tapped so you dont have to use the nut!! has 5 holes cons: expensive, screws stick up to normal height, so you have to do upper deck mod, slightly heavier.
so i say if you have plastic get alum, and if you already have graph its prolly not worth the $$ to swtich to aluminum.
graphite: pros: cheap, the screws no longer stick up high enuf, so you dont have to do upper deck mod. lightweight cons: must use nut to hold ballstud in place (sux), only has 4 screw holes
aluminum: pros: holes are tapped so you dont have to use the nut!! has 5 holes cons: expensive, screws stick up to normal height, so you have to do upper deck mod, slightly heavier.
so i say if you have plastic get alum, and if you already have graph its prolly not worth the $$ to swtich to aluminum.
hpi springs are really good for the pro4 because the spring rates are soooooo close together, you can make what would be half or 1/3 changes compared to other manufacturers springs.
gooo hpi springs!
gooo hpi springs!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by floodo1
here are pros and cons of ea camber plate
graphite: pros: cheap, the screws no longer stick up high enuf, so you dont have to do upper deck mod. lightweight cons: must use nut to hold ballstud in place (sux), only has 4 screw holes
aluminum: pros: holes are tapped so you dont have to use the nut!! has 5 holes cons: expensive, screws stick up to normal height, so you have to do upper deck mod, slightly heavier.
so i say if you have plastic get alum, and if you already have graph its prolly not worth the $$ to swtich to aluminum.
graphite: pros: cheap, the screws no longer stick up high enuf, so you dont have to do upper deck mod. lightweight cons: must use nut to hold ballstud in place (sux), only has 4 screw holes
aluminum: pros: holes are tapped so you dont have to use the nut!! has 5 holes cons: expensive, screws stick up to normal height, so you have to do upper deck mod, slightly heavier.
so i say if you have plastic get alum, and if you already have graph its prolly not worth the $$ to swtich to aluminum.
but the aluminum version by Jet is relatively 1/2 the price of HPI's. and cost about the same at HPI's CF plates... Jet aluminum camber plate is about $17.00 ea... and about $20.00 shipped from HK.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
help
Just got me a Pro4 and have 2 questions.....Im tired of reading 500 pages of comments.
1. What parts do I need to make it a HARA Edition?
2. Where is the best webpage to get the coolest hop-ups/add-ons
Thanks for the help, this section has been great
1. What parts do I need to make it a HARA Edition?
2. Where is the best webpage to get the coolest hop-ups/add-ons
Thanks for the help, this section has been great
Tech Master
Originally Posted by floodo1
here are pros and cons of ea camber plate
graphite: pros: cheap, the screws no longer stick up high enuf, so you dont have to do upper deck mod. lightweight cons: must use nut to hold ballstud in place (sux), only has 4 screw holes
aluminum: pros: holes are tapped so you dont have to use the nut!! has 5 holes cons: expensive, screws stick up to normal height, so you have to do upper deck mod, slightly heavier.
so i say if you have plastic get alum, and if you already have graph its prolly not worth the $$ to swtich to aluminum.
graphite: pros: cheap, the screws no longer stick up high enuf, so you dont have to do upper deck mod. lightweight cons: must use nut to hold ballstud in place (sux), only has 4 screw holes
aluminum: pros: holes are tapped so you dont have to use the nut!! has 5 holes cons: expensive, screws stick up to normal height, so you have to do upper deck mod, slightly heavier.
so i say if you have plastic get alum, and if you already have graph its prolly not worth the $$ to swtich to aluminum.
Thanks floodo1
Tech Master
Originally Posted by JHardy
Just got me a Pro4 and have 2 questions.....Im tired of reading 500 pages of comments.
1. What parts do I need to make it a HARA Edition?
2. Where is the best webpage to get the coolest hop-ups/add-ons
Thanks for the help, this section has been great
1. What parts do I need to make it a HARA Edition?
2. Where is the best webpage to get the coolest hop-ups/add-ons
Thanks for the help, this section has been great
http://www.rc411.com/pages/reviews.php?review=39&page=1
Tech Master
JHardy,
Sorry, wrong link. Here's the right one...
http://www.rcinfusion.com/CategoryLi...x?CategoryID=4
Sorry, wrong link. Here's the right one...
http://www.rcinfusion.com/CategoryLi...x?CategoryID=4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Thanks
thanks for the link.
Where can I get a carbon drive shaft?
Where can I get a carbon drive shaft?