Hpi Pro 4
#6857
It's the only motor to have in the Pro 4, looks cool, most shops in the UK should have them, but you'll have to pay a bit more than you normally would, they're £57 here in the UK, I'd imagine in the USA they'd be about $70?
#6858
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by Super Steve
rookie solora,
I've had my ballstud sheered off at the front but not at the back...
anyways,
the mod can be seen on that same picture
you know how there are 4 screws that mounts the upperdeck to the diff case?
The inner two screw holes (front and rear diffcase) are drilled out and he uses the buttonhead screws...
rookie solora,
I've had my ballstud sheered off at the front but not at the back...
anyways,
the mod can be seen on that same picture
you know how there are 4 screws that mounts the upperdeck to the diff case?
The inner two screw holes (front and rear diffcase) are drilled out and he uses the buttonhead screws...
#6859
Registered User
I`ll have to agree with you on this one to a lot of the Japanese Drivers have started to do this little mod also
#6860
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by Skill
It's the only motor to have in the Pro 4, looks cool, most shops in the UK should have them, but you'll have to pay a bit more than you normally would, they're £57 here in the UK, I'd imagine in the USA they'd be about $70?
It's the only motor to have in the Pro 4, looks cool, most shops in the UK should have them, but you'll have to pay a bit more than you normally would, they're £57 here in the UK, I'd imagine in the USA they'd be about $70?
#6862
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by Aku-Man
What tools to use to do that mod?
What tools to use to do that mod?
#6863
Registered User
I think that 4 screws/holes are no longer mounted thru the upper deck, that is the mod........after the mod, if you are planning to remove the upper deck, it will be 4 less screws to remove...you can remove the upper deck faster...
#6864
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Hara's upperdeck mod..
From what i was told (from Hara himself) is that it was indeed to prevent the car from holding a tweak...
basically the four inner countersunk holes were drilled (probably a good dremel will work) through... just big enough for a typical size button head screw to pass thru...
after that,..... there may or may not be a need for some 'shimming' to be done.. to/under the four remaining screws that attach to the bulkhead... to figure out wethere or not you will need to shim,.... First fasten the screws that attach to the motormount and the steering/bellcrank posts (as you would uasually do in a cross-pattern)... after those four screws are secure look closely for gaps between the upperdeck and bulkheads in the areas of the remaining four screw (screws that attach to the bulkheads) and shim accordingly... from what i have seen/heard, if any shimming is need it will be very little... could be as thin as a motor/armature shim....
hope this helps...
basically the four inner countersunk holes were drilled (probably a good dremel will work) through... just big enough for a typical size button head screw to pass thru...
after that,..... there may or may not be a need for some 'shimming' to be done.. to/under the four remaining screws that attach to the bulkhead... to figure out wethere or not you will need to shim,.... First fasten the screws that attach to the motormount and the steering/bellcrank posts (as you would uasually do in a cross-pattern)... after those four screws are secure look closely for gaps between the upperdeck and bulkheads in the areas of the remaining four screw (screws that attach to the bulkheads) and shim accordingly... from what i have seen/heard, if any shimming is need it will be very little... could be as thin as a motor/armature shim....
hope this helps...
#6867
Get yourself some collets as used on nitro cars throttle linkages to hold your sway bar centred.
The upper deck mod is very interesting, I might do it just to make maintenance easier, it is kinda a pain un-doing all those screws just to change the spur gear .
The upper deck mod is very interesting, I might do it just to make maintenance easier, it is kinda a pain un-doing all those screws just to change the spur gear .
#6870
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by rc-zombies
the supplies set screws are used to control the up/down movement of the sway bars.... the collets control left/right movement...
the supplies set screws are used to control the up/down movement of the sway bars.... the collets control left/right movement...
My understanding about sway bar (on real car or my RC car knowledge)............it SHOULD NOT be locked tight (the set screws SHOULD NOT compressed to the sway bar...it should be a very very very thin gap between the sway bar and the set screws)...
If I compressed the set screws to the sway bar....when I compressed the left side of the suspension, my right side of the suspension will not be forced to carry the load from the left side, and that will defeated the idea of having a sway bar...
Without mounting the shocks, when you lifted the left suspension arm, the right arm should be lifted as well.....only if the sway bar can lifted up and down smoothly....
On the real car, they only use a mount and the rubber base bushing to hold the arm....
Correct me if I am wrong...(may be RC is different...)