Nexus

iTrader: (42)

another pro4 building question...


when you put together the front caster blocks..(i'm using 6deg)...when i slide the knuckles assembly thing in it's tight and can't move right to left freely...did you shave a bit down or anything on that part?

http://hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/.../Pro4_pg17.jpg

step 19....

X2

I had no problem there but if its tight just shave a little off the top or bottom of the knuckle, im sure only a tiny bit will be needed to be removed, remember they will probably break in slightly as they are used.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

the sway bar set-screws should not lock down the swaybars. should be able to move freely up/down with minimal slop. the set screws basically minimizes the slop to the various thicknesses of the sway bars.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Nexus...I would NOT shave the plastic off the knuckle....mine is TIGHT fit as well (I broke one last sunday)........but after running the car several laps, it got lossen up.......

Beside, to performs the TURNING part of the work for the knuckles are done by that 2 metal cup thing (75112) alone with the tightenless of the ball stud (75116 and Z352)....not the knuckle itself........just like what the manual siad.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Understood............thanks for the tips, at least I know I didn't do anything wrong.

jonny69

To get the steering blocks to turn a bit freer I heated the spindle with a heat gun (expensive hairdryer) and then slightly bent them outwards, it also squared them up because from the factory the two faces are not flush. Jonathan

Euge

iTrader: (11)

yeah, I also noticed that the two inside surfaces of the C-hub are not parallel. Is this the way it's supposed to be??? With the AE or Losi, I believe the surfaces are parallel.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

i noticed the same thing on the caster blocks...not being parellel.

thad/erik/hpi...is this by design...just wondering.


anyway...building this pro4 is awesome...i agree with rookie...hpi customer service is the best i've dealt with....quick response and friendly people on the phone.

lazyboy

nexus,

the only thing i would check periodicly are the front mip bones, i replaced both the front ones with irs tc3 bones with the pin cushins... but i havent broken any part on the car but stk mip bones and the oneway gear(god do i hate those things)...other then that im waiting on a diff set for my pro4

lazyboy

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

lazy.

that's probably cause you mostly run rubber tires w/ a oneway...that's the only time i see anyone breaking cvd/bones on any car....i'm really only running foams and never using the oneway.


i don't like the irs bones and pin cushion things...

galway

Skill what is up with your car? You have all kinds of funky stuff going on. What is the in line tamiya plug for? Is that padded brace next to the batteries to brevent lateral ejection? If so it seems rather large and over engineeered. Is that an old plastic shock tower attached to it? What about the antenna tube running along the other side.

Sorry for all the questions, but it just looks really weird.

Aku-Man

Just finished the upper deck mod. Will try out this weekend.

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Does anyone know where I can get a spool for the pro 4?

acutts

For now build one yourself. The HPI part will be released sometime soon I believe.

There are instructions further back on how to build a spoll though.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Lookin" good there

Did it to my BMI upper deck last week but yet to have tried it out yet
-Dave