86LikesHpi Pro 4
05-12-2004, 11:30 AM
#4546
Tech Master
Question regarding the sway bars. How does everybody have them tightened on the gearboxes? Shouldn't the set screws be just tight enough to keep them from moving up and down. Right now mine floats from side to side but not up and down. I would think that if they are locked it would take nothing at all to get a tweak in them and cause all kinds of handling problems. Wonder if this is what is causing some of the left turn/right turn issues. Maybe there is a fine line as to how tight the setscrews should be on the bars?
05-12-2004, 11:43 AM
#4547
Tech Legend
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Doug I have set mine the same way as you. I have just a little free play from side to side.
05-12-2004, 11:44 AM
#4548
Originally posted by Doug Gaut
Question regarding the sway bars. How does everybody have them tightened on the gearboxes? Shouldn't the set screws be just tight enough to keep them from moving up and down. Right now mine floats from side to side but not up and down. I would think that if they are locked it would take nothing at all to get a tweak in them and cause all kinds of handling problems. Wonder if this is what is causing some of the left turn/right turn issues. Maybe there is a fine line as to how tight the setscrews should be on the bars?
Question regarding the sway bars. How does everybody have them tightened on the gearboxes? Shouldn't the set screws be just tight enough to keep them from moving up and down. Right now mine floats from side to side but not up and down. I would think that if they are locked it would take nothing at all to get a tweak in them and cause all kinds of handling problems. Wonder if this is what is causing some of the left turn/right turn issues. Maybe there is a fine line as to how tight the setscrews should be on the bars?
Get yourself some Dubro Collars to help eliminate the side to side play. The swaybar should move Freely up and down. Tighten the setscrews a little at a time to remove any other play. It takes some time to do, but it will ensure that they work right.
05-12-2004, 11:54 AM
#4549
Originally posted by Doug Gaut
Question regarding the sway bars. How does everybody have them tightened on the gearboxes? Shouldn't the set screws be just tight enough to keep them from moving up and down. Right now mine floats from side to side but not up and down. I would think that if they are locked it would take nothing at all to get a tweak in them and cause all kinds of handling problems. Wonder if this is what is causing some of the left turn/right turn issues. Maybe there is a fine line as to how tight the setscrews should be on the bars?
Question regarding the sway bars. How does everybody have them tightened on the gearboxes? Shouldn't the set screws be just tight enough to keep them from moving up and down. Right now mine floats from side to side but not up and down. I would think that if they are locked it would take nothing at all to get a tweak in them and cause all kinds of handling problems. Wonder if this is what is causing some of the left turn/right turn issues. Maybe there is a fine line as to how tight the setscrews should be on the bars?
05-12-2004, 12:49 PM
#4550
Tech Master
Thats what I thought. I will get some dubro collars today to try and remove the side to side play. It would not take much at all to not have the setscrews correct and bind up the movement. Attention to detail!
05-12-2004, 01:07 PM
#4551
Rear Differential Slipping
Dear fello Pro4 enthisiat.
Can someone help me? My rear differential is slipping on my Pro4. If I hold the right tire, I can still rotate the other left tire. It is very noticeable when I applied the the tire compound on the tire, the tire wont rotate when I press the applicator tight enough on it. Is this normal on Pro4? I have double check the instructions carefully (page 14 of the manual) but it is still the same. It is tight enough that it did not rotate when both the fiffs hubs are held.
thanks.
Can someone help me? My rear differential is slipping on my Pro4. If I hold the right tire, I can still rotate the other left tire. It is very noticeable when I applied the the tire compound on the tire, the tire wont rotate when I press the applicator tight enough on it. Is this normal on Pro4? I have double check the instructions carefully (page 14 of the manual) but it is still the same. It is tight enough that it did not rotate when both the fiffs hubs are held.
thanks.
05-12-2004, 01:14 PM
#4552
Re: Rear Differential Slipping
Originally posted by crazy4rc
Dear fello Pro4 enthisiat.
Can someone help me? My rear differential is slipping on my Pro4. If I hold the right tire, I can still rotate the other left tire. It is very noticeable when I applied the the tire compound on the tire, the tire wont rotate when I press the applicator tight enough on it. Is this normal on Pro4? I have double check the instructions carefully (page 14 of the manual) but it is still the same. It is tight enough that it did not rotate when both the fiffs hubs are held.
thanks.
Dear fello Pro4 enthisiat.
Can someone help me? My rear differential is slipping on my Pro4. If I hold the right tire, I can still rotate the other left tire. It is very noticeable when I applied the the tire compound on the tire, the tire wont rotate when I press the applicator tight enough on it. Is this normal on Pro4? I have double check the instructions carefully (page 14 of the manual) but it is still the same. It is tight enough that it did not rotate when both the fiffs hubs are held.
thanks.
You should tighten the diff so that when you hold the right rear tire and the spur gear, the left rear tire should turn with a fair amount of force. I've had success with TC3 diff spring, it seems to hold the setting much better than the stock spring. Give that a try, and let us know....
I'm still going to try using AE diff parts like Doug has, but move the spring and the locknut to the long diff outdrive side. Should have a result by this weekend.
Buddha
05-12-2004, 01:36 PM
#4553
Re: Re: Rear Differential Slipping
thanks for the quick reply my friend. if you can also send me the TC3 parts number you used, i would appreciate it.
Originally posted by RCBuddha
Crazy,
You should tighten the diff so that when you hold the right rear tire and the spur gear, the left rear tire should turn with a fair amount of force. I've had success with TC3 diff spring, it seems to hold the setting much better than the stock spring. Give that a try, and let us know....
I'm still going to try using AE diff parts like Doug has, but move the spring and the locknut to the long diff outdrive side. Should have a result by this weekend.
Buddha
Crazy,
You should tighten the diff so that when you hold the right rear tire and the spur gear, the left rear tire should turn with a fair amount of force. I've had success with TC3 diff spring, it seems to hold the setting much better than the stock spring. Give that a try, and let us know....
I'm still going to try using AE diff parts like Doug has, but move the spring and the locknut to the long diff outdrive side. Should have a result by this weekend.
Buddha
05-12-2004, 02:06 PM
#4555
Originally posted by Doug Gaut
Thats what I thought. I will get some dubro collars today to try and remove the side to side play. It would not take much at all to not have the setscrews correct and bind up the movement. Attention to detail!
Thats what I thought. I will get some dubro collars today to try and remove the side to side play. It would not take much at all to not have the setscrews correct and bind up the movement. Attention to detail!
05-12-2004, 02:08 PM
#4556
Originally posted by Doug Gaut
I used these parts:
Assoc #6582 Spring
Assoc #6575 T-nut and Bolt
The bolt is a hex socket head and the threaded area is larger but the shank area is the same size as the stock bolt so the stock thrust washers work fine. The t-nut is an nylon outside/steel inside type used in offroad so I thought it might hold up better than the nylon style lock nut. I know on the Losi cars we switched to the monster diff nut from the nitro truck as well and worked great.
I agree WYD, the diff feels like it should slip like mad but its totally locked.
I used these parts:
Assoc #6582 Spring
Assoc #6575 T-nut and Bolt
The bolt is a hex socket head and the threaded area is larger but the shank area is the same size as the stock bolt so the stock thrust washers work fine. The t-nut is an nylon outside/steel inside type used in offroad so I thought it might hold up better than the nylon style lock nut. I know on the Losi cars we switched to the monster diff nut from the nitro truck as well and worked great.
I agree WYD, the diff feels like it should slip like mad but its totally locked.
in wide-screen...
05-12-2004, 02:57 PM
#4560
Has anyone used spacers other than the ones in the kit for the pivot blocks? All I have are two silver pieces so I was thinking to use some spacers from my R2. They're large round washers in various thicknesses. I don't think it'll cause any issues but any comments on this?