Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#4171
#4172
#4173
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
You mean the Titanium ones over the alloy ones....
As for the servo saver... if you compare the alloy one with a new kit one... you probably won;t see much difference, however give it a few runs, and the plastic one wears badly, and becomes quite sloppy. With the Alloy front plate, this doesn't happen, stays nice and tight
HiH
Ed
As for the servo saver... if you compare the alloy one with a new kit one... you probably won;t see much difference, however give it a few runs, and the plastic one wears badly, and becomes quite sloppy. With the Alloy front plate, this doesn't happen, stays nice and tight
HiH
Ed
#4174
You mean the Titanium ones over the alloy ones....
As for the servo saver... if you compare the alloy one with a new kit one... you probably won;t see much difference, however give it a few runs, and the plastic one wears badly, and becomes quite sloppy. With the Alloy front plate, this doesn't happen, stays nice and tight
HiH
Ed
As for the servo saver... if you compare the alloy one with a new kit one... you probably won;t see much difference, however give it a few runs, and the plastic one wears badly, and becomes quite sloppy. With the Alloy front plate, this doesn't happen, stays nice and tight
HiH
Ed
#4175
No that is not what I meant, I was referring to the steering arms. The ones in the picture appear to be off the TRF415MSXX, they are not the TRF416 ones. I circled what I meant.
You mean the Titanium ones over the alloy ones....
As for the servo saver... if you compare the alloy one with a new kit one... you probably won;t see much difference, however give it a few runs, and the plastic one wears badly, and becomes quite sloppy. With the Alloy front plate, this doesn't happen, stays nice and tight
HiH
Ed
As for the servo saver... if you compare the alloy one with a new kit one... you probably won;t see much difference, however give it a few runs, and the plastic one wears badly, and becomes quite sloppy. With the Alloy front plate, this doesn't happen, stays nice and tight
HiH
Ed
Last edited by miccal; 01-20-2010 at 06:21 PM.
#4176
Hard to tell from that angle. But it looks right to me. I refer to that as the steering rack, or bell crank. Pretty sure the 415 and 416 have different ones, but then again, anythings possible.
#4177
#4179
Tech Addict
#4180
#4181
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
But your right, they are the 415 MSXX bell cranks... although you do have the 416 cross brace. Have a look at the two attached pics.
The old bell cranks are longer, so move the whole steering forward, which changes the ackerman as well (the piviot points in the steering would be different)
HiH
Ed
#4183
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
ahh you were looking at Tim's car... I was looking at sohlman's...
But your right, they are the 415 MSXX bell cranks... although you do have the 416 cross brace. Have a look at the two attached pics.
The old bell cranks are longer, so move the whole steering forward, which changes the ackerman as well (the piviot points in the steering would be different)
HiH
Ed
But your right, they are the 415 MSXX bell cranks... although you do have the 416 cross brace. Have a look at the two attached pics.
The old bell cranks are longer, so move the whole steering forward, which changes the ackerman as well (the piviot points in the steering would be different)
HiH
Ed
#4184
#4185
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Ok guys, I'm having a bit of a handling issue and it's got me a bit stumped
Ever since getting back from the nationals last year I've had a lift off oversteer problem in the tightest corners of the tracks I race on. The only way I've been able to combat it is by lengthening the rear wheelbase but this is hurting my steering elsewhere. I'm running minimal rear droop so that's not the issue, and the only thing I've done differently to my old set ups running fractionally (2mm) more rebound at the rear than I did before. What's the best way to calm the whole thing down? I was thinking of going a little thicker with oil (running 400wt at the mo) all around and drilling vent holes in the top of the shock to take out some of the pack
also has anyone been able to make the WE front shock mounting positions work? it's been hard to tell with the issue above but whenever I incline my front shocks down to hole 2 on the damper stay my car seems slower
Ever since getting back from the nationals last year I've had a lift off oversteer problem in the tightest corners of the tracks I race on. The only way I've been able to combat it is by lengthening the rear wheelbase but this is hurting my steering elsewhere. I'm running minimal rear droop so that's not the issue, and the only thing I've done differently to my old set ups running fractionally (2mm) more rebound at the rear than I did before. What's the best way to calm the whole thing down? I was thinking of going a little thicker with oil (running 400wt at the mo) all around and drilling vent holes in the top of the shock to take out some of the pack
also has anyone been able to make the WE front shock mounting positions work? it's been hard to tell with the issue above but whenever I incline my front shocks down to hole 2 on the damper stay my car seems slower