4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
01-26-2009, 06:09 PM
#4186
Originally Posted by CraigM
Ok guys, I'm having a bit of a handling issue and it's got me a bit stumped
Ever since getting back from the nationals last year I've had a lift off oversteer problem in the tightest corners of the tracks I race on. The only way I've been able to combat it is by lengthening the rear wheelbase but this is hurting my steering elsewhere. I'm running minimal rear droop so that's not the issue, and the only thing I've done differently to my old set ups running fractionally (2mm) more rebound at the rear than I did before. What's the best way to calm the whole thing down? I was thinking of going a little thicker with oil (running 400wt at the mo) all around and drilling vent holes in the top of the shock to take out some of the pack
also has anyone been able to make the WE front shock mounting positions work? it's been hard to tell with the issue above but whenever I incline my front shocks down to hole 2 on the damper stay my car seems slower
Ever since getting back from the nationals last year I've had a lift off oversteer problem in the tightest corners of the tracks I race on. The only way I've been able to combat it is by lengthening the rear wheelbase but this is hurting my steering elsewhere. I'm running minimal rear droop so that's not the issue, and the only thing I've done differently to my old set ups running fractionally (2mm) more rebound at the rear than I did before. What's the best way to calm the whole thing down? I was thinking of going a little thicker with oil (running 400wt at the mo) all around and drilling vent holes in the top of the shock to take out some of the pack
also has anyone been able to make the WE front shock mounting positions work? it's been hard to tell with the issue above but whenever I incline my front shocks down to hole 2 on the damper stay my car seems slower
What do you have your rear droop set at ? I measure mine with the hudy blocks and have a setting of 4mm from under the outer hinge pin on the "A" arm. That yields about 2mm of droop from ride height in the rear. I would concider this actually a lot of droop. So as you might think thats not the problem, I think maybe it is. 6mm front/4mm rear.
01-26-2009, 06:15 PM
#4187
Originally Posted by miccal
No problem.
What was better about it?
What was better about it?
so i replaced it with the MSXX arms.. i also moved up my servo a little bit.
felt better in my opinion. its probably not for everyone. i was going to clean the bearings on the original arms,..... one of the bearings exploded and the outer casing got stuck inside the arm. so i got stuck using the MSXX arms. replacement arms are still on order.
01-26-2009, 06:17 PM
#4188
Thanks for the information.
Originally Posted by Hebiki
i like running my steering links perfectly straight. in order to do that with the original you had to shim it up (using the rear holes on the steering knuckles).
so i replaced it with the MSXX arms.. i also moved up my servo a little bit.
felt better in my opinion. its probably not for everyone. i was going to clean the bearings on the original arms,..... one of the bearings exploded and the outer casing got stuck inside the arm. so i got stuck using the MSXX arms. replacement arms are still on order.
so i replaced it with the MSXX arms.. i also moved up my servo a little bit.
felt better in my opinion. its probably not for everyone. i was going to clean the bearings on the original arms,..... one of the bearings exploded and the outer casing got stuck inside the arm. so i got stuck using the MSXX arms. replacement arms are still on order.
01-26-2009, 06:24 PM
#4189
Originally Posted by miccal
Thanks for the information.
01-26-2009, 06:36 PM
#4190
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
Wouldn't it have been easier to just put upper king pin (ball joint) and the shims. I know the long aluminum ones don't last very long.
Originally Posted by Hebiki
i was going to clean the bearings on the original arms,..... one of the bearings exploded and the outer casing got stuck inside the arm. so i got stuck using the MSXX arms. replacement arms are still on order.
01-26-2009, 07:30 PM
#4191
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
What do you have your rear droop set at ? I measure mine with the hudy blocks and have a setting of 4mm from under the outer hinge pin on the "A" arm. That yields about 2mm of droop from ride height in the rear. I would concider this actually a lot of droop. So as you might think thats not the problem, I think maybe it is. 6mm front/4mm rear.
01-26-2009, 07:32 PM
#4192
Get bent ... LoL I missed that .
01-26-2009, 07:36 PM
#4193
Originally Posted by CraigM
Yeah that's what I thought at first but I've been backing off the droop since it started happening and I'm up to 6mm on the blocks at the back so 2mm less than you, which is minimal up travel. I might try some anti-dive at the front
Seriously I think you may be going the wrong way with that droop screw .
Go back to 4mm in the rear .
01-26-2009, 08:47 PM
#4194
Originally Posted by CraigM
Yeah that's what I thought at first but I've been backing off the droop since it started happening and I'm up to 6mm on the blocks at the back so 2mm less than you, which is minimal up travel. I might try some anti-dive at the front
01-26-2009, 11:53 PM
#4195
Hey John, I've been pondering ideas of how to get LiPo's into the car without hacking up the upper deck, and I put together my first idea...
I can now solder the female banana plug onto that battery bar and plug in from there. This setup will suit me fine, as the biggest pinion this car will see is a 27 tooth, but definately need more room for larger pinions, so I'm going to go to the hobby store in the next couple days and see if I can get a piece of copper that I can bend up and hopefully move the banana plug a little more forward.
Just a disclaimer on this, I have a soldering iron that was capable of getting that banana plug off the positive tab in about a second, I wouldn't recommend trying this out with an iron that won't be able to get the plug off nearly instantly, from what I understand LiPo's don't like heat
Just my first idea of how to make full size packs fit, I'm sure more will come
I can now solder the female banana plug onto that battery bar and plug in from there. This setup will suit me fine, as the biggest pinion this car will see is a 27 tooth, but definately need more room for larger pinions, so I'm going to go to the hobby store in the next couple days and see if I can get a piece of copper that I can bend up and hopefully move the banana plug a little more forward.
Just a disclaimer on this, I have a soldering iron that was capable of getting that banana plug off the positive tab in about a second, I wouldn't recommend trying this out with an iron that won't be able to get the plug off nearly instantly, from what I understand LiPo's don't like heat
Just my first idea of how to make full size packs fit, I'm sure more will come
01-27-2009, 12:18 AM
#4196
Has anyone tried using the 1 mm down type aluminum damper retainers? In theory, it seems as though using those retainers would allow more spring preload for a given ride height, which will increase the speed of rebound. How will the 416 respond from a driver's perspective?
01-27-2009, 12:30 AM
#4197
I put them on my new kit, mainly because they are aluminum and should hold true longer than plastic would. The cup is 1mm lower, so I just adjust the shock collar 1mm lower to match, doesn't change the preload any, they just give the option to run a slightly longer spring from other brands.
01-27-2009, 12:56 AM
#4198
Thanks Randy. Now that you mentioned it, I realize my mistake. Unlike my full size coilovers where I can adjust the actual height of the shock body, the 1 mm down type retainers simply move the spring down.
01-27-2009, 04:34 AM
#4199
Rear toe
I have just finish building my car, now its sitting on my set up board. My problem is rear toe. Left arm read 4deg toe in while right arm read 3deg toe in. I m using the stock suspension block 1XA (rear front) and 1F (rear rear). From the chart at Thard forum it should read 3.5deg toe in. I have tried loosening the suspension block screws hoping to align it better but the it still reads 4deg and 3 deg. Can anyone suggest anything? I m using Hudy Set Up System BTW.
01-27-2009, 07:29 AM
#4200
Originally Posted by dameetz
I have just finish building my car, now its sitting on my set up board. My problem is rear toe. Left arm read 4deg toe in while right arm read 3deg toe in. I m using the stock suspension block 1XA (rear front) and 1F (rear rear). From the chart at Thard forum it should read 3.5deg toe in. I have tried loosening the suspension block screws hoping to align it better but the it still reads 4deg and 3 deg. Can anyone suggest anything? I m using Hudy Set Up System BTW.
Remive them and measure from the 3mm hole to the outside of each one. And discrepencies will show you the bad part.
