BMI's DB12R
#7411
Thanks for the info Gadgt..
Ebay auction using your exact verbage, 370199350183, is this you guys? Your not Canadian, your from right here on the West Coast of Fla right?
Can you define the colors listed to the tire performance?
What color = what stickyness?
Thanks Joe
Ebay auction using your exact verbage, 370199350183, is this you guys? Your not Canadian, your from right here on the West Coast of Fla right?
Can you define the colors listed to the tire performance?
What color = what stickyness?
Thanks Joe
Black - 40S: Special tire for insane traction carpet tracks. Does not get gummy like Purple. If you don't have insane traction you car will push with these.
Purple - 40S: Good for medium bite conditions in stock racing. This compound is getting popular again because of Jack the Gripper traction compound. With Jack Purples do not get too sticky.
Lilac - 37S: Great front tire for stock carpet or if dbl. pink is too much steering.
Double Pink - 35S: This is the standard front tire for carpet in all classes. Its is used front and rear for 19T and Mod carpet and front and rear in all classes on asphalt.
Grey - 35S: This is a low natural rubber compound. It is just as hard as dbl. pink but it had FAR LESS traction. It is used to free up the rear of stock powered carpet cars for more efficiency and corner speed. This is the old standard rear carpet tire, most stock carpet racers use the softer yellow compound now for more forward grip.
Magenta - 32S: Its softer than dbl pink so if you need more steering than dbl. pink use these up front. If you need more rear traction than dbl. pink use these in the rear.
Pink - 30S: This tire is used in mod 1/12th on carpet and asphalt if the traction is low. If the traction is high it will lock in the rear of the car and make it push.
Yellow - 30S: This is a low natural rubber compound. It is the standard rear tire for Stock racing. It is used to free up the rear of stock powered carpet cars for more efficiency and corner speed.
White - 25S: This is a low natural rubber compound. It was the standard rear tire for 1/10th on road carpet racing. Its a little softer than yellow.
E
#7412
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Carpet track has opened near me recently and I was going to try 13.5/1 Cell Lipo. The 4 cell setup below is one I saved from an earlier post. Anyone with 1 cell experience know if it's about the same or needs a tweak or two? Thanks!
*********************
Front:
5 degree block w/ 4 degree castor
.020 linear springs and #4 surlube on the kingpins
3.5mm ride height
servo flat w/ medium ballstuds on the steering blocks
Lilac front tires cut to 1.650
.25mm droop
Rear:
Gold center shock spring
Silva shock w/ 60 wt AE oil
Medium ballstud on shock mount
batteries in the middle
#4 surlube in the tubes
Stock flex plates mounted in short position
no tweak screws
Yellow rear tires cut to 1.750
172mm rear width
1mm pod droop
Pod Level at ride height
3.5mm ride height
*********************
Front:
5 degree block w/ 4 degree castor
.020 linear springs and #4 surlube on the kingpins
3.5mm ride height
servo flat w/ medium ballstuds on the steering blocks
Lilac front tires cut to 1.650
.25mm droop
Rear:
Gold center shock spring
Silva shock w/ 60 wt AE oil
Medium ballstud on shock mount
batteries in the middle
#4 surlube in the tubes
Stock flex plates mounted in short position
no tweak screws
Yellow rear tires cut to 1.750
172mm rear width
1mm pod droop
Pod Level at ride height
3.5mm ride height
#7413
That may work depending on the tacktion level, but I'd suggest softer on the lube and center shock.
#7414
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
I would change to Double Pink front tires, #3 Sure Lube for the Tubes and Kingpin's, and 35-40wt oil in the shock, with a blue or gold center spring depending on overall traction.
With the LiPo, you are losing a lot of weight on the front tires, and with the 13.5T motor, you will need some extra grip. We have been running Double Pink fronts and have only been experiencing about .5mm wear from 4-heats of racing.
#7416
Tech Rookie
Am I reading right? No LHS support for parts?
The tire hubs, do you need specific rims to work? Can these be purchased at LHS?
Probably newb questions but I simply dont know.
Thanks......
The tire hubs, do you need specific rims to work? Can these be purchased at LHS?
Probably newb questions but I simply dont know.
Thanks......
#7417
The good news is that Jasons product is really bullit proof, unless you hit everything in sight you will get by with very few spares. As the frontend is AE those parts you should be able to get local, past that you need some spare side links and rear pivots, simple list.
As for tires if there is an ongoing 1/12 class at your track the lhs should have tires in stock that are the most popular for that surface. I run the Jaco prizms and BSR brand tires most but have tried some other brands too.
#7418
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
We have as good of LHS support as any 1/12th manufacturer. If the track run them and supply 1/12th parts, you will usually find our parts there. We also sell off of our website and through other online shops as well
Sorry for the big delay in the 1S lipo chassis pics guys. I got the flu this week and will be back at it now and will have pics up beginning of the week. The chassis are going to be available in 2 weeks. We are also going to offer the DB12RR as a 4 cell or 1S lipo car for those who want to buy the car and also offer the DB12RR conversion as a 4 cell or 1S lipo option. There will be no price differences in the chassis plates,kits or conversions. The option of which you would rather have when purchasing will be the only difference. Thanks for looking guys
Sorry for the big delay in the 1S lipo chassis pics guys. I got the flu this week and will be back at it now and will have pics up beginning of the week. The chassis are going to be available in 2 weeks. We are also going to offer the DB12RR as a 4 cell or 1S lipo car for those who want to buy the car and also offer the DB12RR conversion as a 4 cell or 1S lipo option. There will be no price differences in the chassis plates,kits or conversions. The option of which you would rather have when purchasing will be the only difference. Thanks for looking guys
#7419
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
NIIIIIIIICCCCCCCEEEEEEEE!!!!!! Cant wait to get one.
We have as good of LHS support as any 1/12th manufacturer. If the track run them and supply 1/12th parts, you will usually find our parts there. We also sell off of our website and through other online shops as well
Sorry for the big delay in the 1S lipo chassis pics guys. I got the flu this week and will be back at it now and will have pics up beginning of the week. The chassis are going to be available in 2 weeks. We are also going to offer the DB12RR as a 4 cell or 1S lipo car for those who want to buy the car and also offer the DB12RR conversion as a 4 cell or 1S lipo option. There will be no price differences in the chassis plates,kits or conversions. The option of which you would rather have when purchasing will be the only difference. Thanks for looking guys
Sorry for the big delay in the 1S lipo chassis pics guys. I got the flu this week and will be back at it now and will have pics up beginning of the week. The chassis are going to be available in 2 weeks. We are also going to offer the DB12RR as a 4 cell or 1S lipo car for those who want to buy the car and also offer the DB12RR conversion as a 4 cell or 1S lipo option. There will be no price differences in the chassis plates,kits or conversions. The option of which you would rather have when purchasing will be the only difference. Thanks for looking guys
#7421
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
Hey guys,
I looked into the rear flex plate pivot housings and didnt find anything unusual about them. They are the same as they have always been and seem to be the same strength as our origionals. However, i will increase the wall thickness around the pivot balls being that there are some of you that are having problems with breakage. I will be making the new ones as of monday and will throw away the inventory i have now. The center pivot will not go through any changes as we found by strengthening it moved the breaking point to more expensive areas of the car. The rear pod took too much abuse when i beefed up the center pivot.
I will also be putting together a new monthly incentive deal for the month of june and will announce it on monday. This will be to help everyone get ready for the up and coming carpet season. Have a great weekend guys.
I looked into the rear flex plate pivot housings and didnt find anything unusual about them. They are the same as they have always been and seem to be the same strength as our origionals. However, i will increase the wall thickness around the pivot balls being that there are some of you that are having problems with breakage. I will be making the new ones as of monday and will throw away the inventory i have now. The center pivot will not go through any changes as we found by strengthening it moved the breaking point to more expensive areas of the car. The rear pod took too much abuse when i beefed up the center pivot.
I will also be putting together a new monthly incentive deal for the month of june and will announce it on monday. This will be to help everyone get ready for the up and coming carpet season. Have a great weekend guys.
#7422
Jason,
Are you making an 1s lipo chassis for the wgt as well?
Thanks,
Eric
Are you making an 1s lipo chassis for the wgt as well?
Thanks,
Eric
#7424
a carpet track just opened this month in my area and am trying various tuning suggestions for carpet.
i recall a suggestion (by Jason i think) to run the servo flat and fwd with the ballstuds between the horn and servo. (the search engine seems fouled up lately and i can't find the post)
anyways, when i try to use this position the servo body interferes with the front arm. i am using a 9650.
also to manage bump steer with this setup, you use the medium ballstud. (the kit supplied ballstud for the front shock mount?)
that is so tall, has anybody tried inverting the steering arms?
thanks for any suggestions.
i recall a suggestion (by Jason i think) to run the servo flat and fwd with the ballstuds between the horn and servo. (the search engine seems fouled up lately and i can't find the post)
anyways, when i try to use this position the servo body interferes with the front arm. i am using a 9650.
also to manage bump steer with this setup, you use the medium ballstud. (the kit supplied ballstud for the front shock mount?)
that is so tall, has anybody tried inverting the steering arms?
thanks for any suggestions.
#7425
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
a carpet track just opened this month in my area and am trying various tuning suggestions for carpet.
i recall a suggestion (by Jason i think) to run the servo flat and fwd with the ballstuds between the horn and servo. (the search engine seems fouled up lately and i can't find the post)
anyways, when i try to use this position the servo body interferes with the front arm. i am using a 9650.
also to manage bump steer with this setup, you use the medium ballstud. (the kit supplied ballstud for the front shock mount?)
that is so tall, has anybody tried inverting the steering arms?
thanks for any suggestions.
i recall a suggestion (by Jason i think) to run the servo flat and fwd with the ballstuds between the horn and servo. (the search engine seems fouled up lately and i can't find the post)
anyways, when i try to use this position the servo body interferes with the front arm. i am using a 9650.
also to manage bump steer with this setup, you use the medium ballstud. (the kit supplied ballstud for the front shock mount?)
that is so tall, has anybody tried inverting the steering arms?
thanks for any suggestions.
I never did flip the steering blocks as i just used the medium ballstuds. You can try it and see how it goes. Keep me posted.