BMI's DB12R
03-23-2009, 02:15 PM
#7216
Tech Fanatic
As JasonB said above, the Corally thrust race is both lighter and smoother than the Slapmaster, and when correctly set up, will equal a normal bearing for performance. It will also last many times longer
The lube's only job is to grease the ball in the plastic holes. Moly is not the correct grease, as it will coat the balls and the races with a slippery surface, which is not what we want. Use the standard AE clear silicon diff grease on both main and thrust races, and your diff will perform, and last longer.
Dave Irrgang is not called 'The Diff Dude' for nothing, and his build tips are the best out there. I've followed this for years, and it works very time. Read the King of Diffs here. You'll find the answers spread out a bit, but the grease thing is mentioned twice.
The lube's only job is to grease the ball in the plastic holes. Moly is not the correct grease, as it will coat the balls and the races with a slippery surface, which is not what we want. Use the standard AE clear silicon diff grease on both main and thrust races, and your diff will perform, and last longer.
Dave Irrgang is not called 'The Diff Dude' for nothing, and his build tips are the best out there. I've followed this for years, and it works very time. Read the King of Diffs here. You'll find the answers spread out a bit, but the grease thing is mentioned twice.
03-23-2009, 02:34 PM
#7217
The Corally one is what I'm using now. I've been wanting to try the slapmaster but if you guys think Corally is better I guess I'll stick with it.
03-23-2009, 03:11 PM
#7218
Moderator
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As JasonB said above, the Corally thrust race is both lighter and smoother than the Slapmaster, and when correctly set up, will equal a normal bearing for performance. It will also last many times longer
The lube's only job is to grease the ball in the plastic holes. Moly is not the correct grease, as it will coat the balls and the races with a slippery surface, which is not what we want. Use the standard AE clear silicon diff grease on both main and thrust races, and your diff will perform, and last longer.
Dave Irrgang is not called 'The Diff Dude' for nothing, and his build tips are the best out there. I've followed this for years, and it works very time. Read the King of Diffs here. You'll find the answers spread out a bit, but the grease thing is mentioned twice.
The lube's only job is to grease the ball in the plastic holes. Moly is not the correct grease, as it will coat the balls and the races with a slippery surface, which is not what we want. Use the standard AE clear silicon diff grease on both main and thrust races, and your diff will perform, and last longer.
Dave Irrgang is not called 'The Diff Dude' for nothing, and his build tips are the best out there. I've followed this for years, and it works very time. Read the King of Diffs here. You'll find the answers spread out a bit, but the grease thing is mentioned twice.
Some of Dave's stuff there is quite old, theres a bunch of solid write ups around the web about how to handle the newer ceramic balls and how to properly break in the plates to get them to grip. With the Slapmaster thrust bearing (I havent seen the Corally one... but do want to try it) RC4less ceramic diff balls, the stock diff plates, and some 600grit sand paper, I can build a diff that spins free, yet doesnt slip at even at a standing start, and is only rebuilt about once ever 4 or 5 weeks.
03-24-2009, 04:50 PM
#7219
Jason, did you do any testing for the new RR version on asphalt or were these changes designed with carpet racing in mind?
03-24-2009, 08:23 PM
#7221
Did you find any setup changes needed for the new RR on asphalt? I used your great free shipping offer and purchased the parts I needed to build a complete RR car. But I have'nt had a chance to run it yet and am wondering if I should expect to make any changes from the original R car.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
03-24-2009, 08:45 PM
#7222
I mentioned moly above as the lube for the thrust bearing... thats the only place it gets used and is exactly the kind of use moly lube is meant for. The reason for the silicone on the diff balls is you want them to grip the plates, with moly that wouldnt happen. But in a thrust bearing you dont want grip or any friction so a small dab of a good moly grease will keep the thrust bearing from generating added friction under high loads.
Some of Dave's stuff there is quite old, theres a bunch of solid write ups around the web about how to handle the newer ceramic balls and how to properly break in the plates to get them to grip. With the Slapmaster thrust bearing (I havent seen the Corally one... but do want to try it) RC4less ceramic diff balls, the stock diff plates, and some 600grit sand paper, I can build a diff that spins free, yet doesnt slip at even at a standing start, and is only rebuilt about once ever 4 or 5 weeks.
Some of Dave's stuff there is quite old, theres a bunch of solid write ups around the web about how to handle the newer ceramic balls and how to properly break in the plates to get them to grip. With the Slapmaster thrust bearing (I havent seen the Corally one... but do want to try it) RC4less ceramic diff balls, the stock diff plates, and some 600grit sand paper, I can build a diff that spins free, yet doesnt slip at even at a standing start, and is only rebuilt about once ever 4 or 5 weeks.
+1
03-24-2009, 09:04 PM
#7223
I mentioned moly above as the lube for the thrust bearing... thats the only place it gets used and is exactly the kind of use moly lube is meant for. The reason for the silicone on the diff balls is you want them to grip the plates, with moly that wouldnt happen. But in a thrust bearing you dont want grip or any friction so a small dab of a good moly grease will keep the thrust bearing from generating added friction under high loads.
Some of Dave's stuff there is quite old, theres a bunch of solid write ups around the web about how to handle the newer ceramic balls and how to properly break in the plates to get them to grip. With the Slapmaster thrust bearing (I havent seen the Corally one... but do want to try it) RC4less ceramic diff balls, the stock diff plates, and some 600grit sand paper, I can build a diff that spins free, yet doesnt slip at even at a standing start, and is only rebuilt about once ever 4 or 5 weeks.
Some of Dave's stuff there is quite old, theres a bunch of solid write ups around the web about how to handle the newer ceramic balls and how to properly break in the plates to get them to grip. With the Slapmaster thrust bearing (I havent seen the Corally one... but do want to try it) RC4less ceramic diff balls, the stock diff plates, and some 600grit sand paper, I can build a diff that spins free, yet doesnt slip at even at a standing start, and is only rebuilt about once ever 4 or 5 weeks.
03-25-2009, 01:04 AM
#7224
Tech Adept
One of the sedans I bought came with ceramic diff balls. It quickly developed a gritty diff that was inconsistent. After replacing the balls several times and rebuilding the diff I got a chance to look at all of the parts under a microscope and found the ceramic diff balls were chipping, causing the problem (think mega jaw breaker dropped on concrete. Ive been a big fan of plain jane steel balls changed every diff rebuild since that eye opening experience Anyone finding ceramics to be fragile in pan car diffs?
I have had balls from other sources that have chipped like you discribe.
Jason
03-25-2009, 03:12 AM
#7225
Did you find any setup changes needed for the new RR on asphalt? I used your great free shipping offer and purchased the parts I needed to build a complete RR car. But I have'nt had a chance to run it yet and am wondering if I should expect to make any changes from the original R car.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
I just went 1 spring rate softer on the center spring than the R and that was about it.
03-25-2009, 01:08 PM
#7226
Tech Fanatic
I mentioned moly above as the lube for the thrust bearing... thats the only place it gets used and is exactly the kind of use moly lube is meant for. The reason for the silicone on the diff balls is you want them to grip the plates, with moly that wouldnt happen. But in a thrust bearing you dont want grip or any friction so a small dab of a good moly grease will keep the thrust bearing from generating added friction under high loads.
Some of Dave's stuff there is quite old, theres a bunch of solid write ups around the web about how to handle the newer ceramic balls and how to properly break in the plates to get them to grip. With the Slapmaster thrust bearing (I havent seen the Corally one... but do want to try it) RC4less ceramic diff balls, the stock diff plates, and some 600grit sand paper, I can build a diff that spins free, yet doesnt slip at even at a standing start, and is only rebuilt about once ever 4 or 5 weeks.
Some of Dave's stuff there is quite old, theres a bunch of solid write ups around the web about how to handle the newer ceramic balls and how to properly break in the plates to get them to grip. With the Slapmaster thrust bearing (I havent seen the Corally one... but do want to try it) RC4less ceramic diff balls, the stock diff plates, and some 600grit sand paper, I can build a diff that spins free, yet doesnt slip at even at a standing start, and is only rebuilt about once ever 4 or 5 weeks.
Totally agree on the set-up you describe, and I have diffs that run a long time. We run 10.5 and Open Mod (6.5 in my case) so I don't get as long out of a diff as you do - probably 12-15 runs - before the dirt gets into the holes where the balls are, and it all starts to drag a bit. However, with the Corally/RC4Less carbide balls, I never change balls in the diff, as Jason says.
The Corally thrust race is lighter, better made and much cheaper than the Slapmaster - you'll like it!
03-25-2009, 01:26 PM
#7227
03-25-2009, 03:58 PM
#7228
Huge race this week here in Duluth Minnesota. Its our annual state carpet champs Can't tell you how much fun its going to be putting laps on the CRC team guys with the new RR. BMI for life!!!!!!!
http://lsrcc.com/forum/portal.php
BMI for life!!!!!!!http://lsrcc.com/forum/portal.php
03-25-2009, 07:40 PM
#7230
I have to disagree a bit. Normally what's good for a thrust bearing is a good grease like moly, wheel bearing grease, AE black grease, etc. These are not good lubes for the actual diff due to the torque being applied to it. This is not a normal operation for a thrust bearing so while a diff may be built just like a thrust bearing, it's operation is quite different. Greases will increase slippage which is not good on a diff and is why AE silicone is so good. A thrust bearing however, is not subjected to this torque that tries to slip it so a good grease (used sparingly) is perfectly fine for this.