2LikesTamiya TA05MS
01-12-2009, 09:27 AM
#1216
If I wanted to look for spare parts or option parts like arms, uprights, diff assembly, suspension bridges etc.. should i be searching under the 415 parts list or the normal TA05? Most of the normal TA05 parts listed on the on line web shop does not look the same as my MS... 
01-12-2009, 11:13 AM
#1217
I run a 17.5bl motor in my MS.
Running a 3.31fdr, with a 78t spur 53t pinion no modications!
Mid-short tech track 35 laps in 6min 160º at the end of every run.
Foam tires on carpet though....
Nexus Indoor Raceway!
64 pitch.
Running a 3.31fdr, with a 78t spur 53t pinion no modications!
Mid-short tech track 35 laps in 6min 160º at the end of every run.
Foam tires on carpet though....
Nexus Indoor Raceway!
64 pitch.
Last edited by rctouringracer; 01-13-2009 at 08:32 PM.
01-12-2009, 02:52 PM
#1218
If I wanted to look for spare parts or option parts like arms, uprights, diff assembly, suspension bridges etc.. should i be searching under the 415 parts list or the normal TA05? Most of the normal TA05 parts listed on the on line web shop does not look the same as my MS...
Many of the drive and suspension components are shared with the TRF cars.
01-13-2009, 08:21 PM
#1219
01-13-2009, 08:42 PM
#1221
If I wanted to look for spare parts or option parts like arms, uprights, diff assembly, suspension bridges etc.. should i be searching under the 415 parts list or the normal TA05? Most of the normal TA05 parts listed on the on line web shop does not look the same as my MS...
01-14-2009, 07:51 AM
#1222
Although I have finished building my car I haven't got the oppurtunity to test it yet coz its been raining for the past 2-3 days mostly afternoon.
Anyhow during setting up my car I notice there a lots of slop/play with this car, i mean there are slops at both front and rear arms hinge shaft, the front and rear upright hinge, steering system, ball connectors and even the shock ball connector. I add some motor shim wherever I can and the slops reduce a bit but not gone. I found out that the hinge shaft size is a bit smaller than the hole which its supposed to enter. I m very particular with this problem,it makes reading the value on my set up station inconsistent especially toe and camber.
About the shocks ball connector slops, I notice this when I tried to compress the suspension arms. There's a bit of play before the shocks doing its job. I solved this by putting small o rings at the ball connectors (at shock twr and suspension arm) and the slops gone.
One more thing I dremel a bit of the right steering bellcrank (underside) coz when put steering right full lock it will touch the belt.
Is this slop normal for a Tamiya kit?
Anyhow during setting up my car I notice there a lots of slop/play with this car, i mean there are slops at both front and rear arms hinge shaft, the front and rear upright hinge, steering system, ball connectors and even the shock ball connector. I add some motor shim wherever I can and the slops reduce a bit but not gone. I found out that the hinge shaft size is a bit smaller than the hole which its supposed to enter. I m very particular with this problem,it makes reading the value on my set up station inconsistent especially toe and camber.
About the shocks ball connector slops, I notice this when I tried to compress the suspension arms. There's a bit of play before the shocks doing its job. I solved this by putting small o rings at the ball connectors (at shock twr and suspension arm) and the slops gone.
One more thing I dremel a bit of the right steering bellcrank (underside) coz when put steering right full lock it will touch the belt.
Is this slop normal for a Tamiya kit?
01-14-2009, 08:09 AM
#1223
Although I have finished building my car I haven't got the oppurtunity to test it yet coz its been raining for the past 2-3 days mostly afternoon.
Anyhow during setting up my car I notice there a lots of slop/play with this car, i mean there are slops at both front and rear arms hinge shaft, the front and rear upright hinge, steering system, ball connectors and even the shock ball connector. I add some motor shim wherever I can and the slops reduce a bit but not gone. I found out that the hinge shaft size is a bit smaller than the hole which its supposed to enter. I m very particular with this problem,it makes reading the value on my set up station inconsistent especially toe and camber.
About the shocks ball connector slops, I notice this when I tried to compress the suspension arms. There's a bit of play before the shocks doing its job. I solved this by putting small o rings at the ball connectors (at shock twr and suspension arm) and the slops gone.
One more thing I dremel a bit of the right steering bellcrank (underside) coz when put steering right full lock it will touch the belt.
Is this slop normal for a Tamiya kit?
Anyhow during setting up my car I notice there a lots of slop/play with this car, i mean there are slops at both front and rear arms hinge shaft, the front and rear upright hinge, steering system, ball connectors and even the shock ball connector. I add some motor shim wherever I can and the slops reduce a bit but not gone. I found out that the hinge shaft size is a bit smaller than the hole which its supposed to enter. I m very particular with this problem,it makes reading the value on my set up station inconsistent especially toe and camber.
About the shocks ball connector slops, I notice this when I tried to compress the suspension arms. There's a bit of play before the shocks doing its job. I solved this by putting small o rings at the ball connectors (at shock twr and suspension arm) and the slops gone.
One more thing I dremel a bit of the right steering bellcrank (underside) coz when put steering right full lock it will touch the belt.
Is this slop normal for a Tamiya kit?
I had no slop after assembly, in fact my car was tight!!!
Didn't dremel the bellcrank!
Couldn't bring myself to cut plus didn't see the need... car rarely if ever gets turned on the locks! Maybe a concern if I ever went drifting!
01-16-2009, 04:17 AM
#1224
My TA05MS feels pretty dialed now. It took a little while to sort things out with the short lightweight arms, but now it drives better than it ever did with the original lightweight arms. I attached a setup sheet to this post for reference.
01-16-2009, 04:41 AM
#1225
This is what I ve been looking for, at least i have a starting point for a base set up. thanks.
01-16-2009, 07:17 AM
#1226
Hi guys! I just want to ask and clarify whether my chassis is tweak or not. First of all how do you actually inspect for tweak?
My car is new and hasn't been driven, when I tried to adjust the down stop set screws (to set up droop), initially i just unscrew the set screws on until they do not touch the chassis. The chassis is sitting on the set up block (on the set up board) and when I measure the reading with down stop block/gauge at the outer hinge, the reading of left and right are not the same. Shouldn't it be the same?As I assume both arms are free (no down stop set screws) and sitting on a brand new flat (i assume) carbon fiber chassis. The same reading also happened at both front and rear. Its like the chassis is twisted or warp around roll axis.
If I were to make the same down stop value on left and right arms the set screws noticeably more protruding on side than the other. Is my chassis tweaked? If it is how do you untweak it?
My car is new and hasn't been driven, when I tried to adjust the down stop set screws (to set up droop), initially i just unscrew the set screws on until they do not touch the chassis. The chassis is sitting on the set up block (on the set up board) and when I measure the reading with down stop block/gauge at the outer hinge, the reading of left and right are not the same. Shouldn't it be the same?As I assume both arms are free (no down stop set screws) and sitting on a brand new flat (i assume) carbon fiber chassis. The same reading also happened at both front and rear. Its like the chassis is twisted or warp around roll axis.
If I were to make the same down stop value on left and right arms the set screws noticeably more protruding on side than the other. Is my chassis tweaked? If it is how do you untweak it?
01-16-2009, 02:04 PM
#1227
Hi guys! I just want to ask and clarify whether my chassis is tweak or not. First of all how do you actually inspect for tweak?
My car is new and hasn't been driven, when I tried to adjust the down stop set screws (to set up droop), initially i just unscrew the set screws on until they do not touch the chassis. The chassis is sitting on the set up block (on the set up board) and when I measure the reading with down stop block/gauge at the outer hinge, the reading of left and right are not the same. Shouldn't it be the same?As I assume both arms are free (no down stop set screws) and sitting on a brand new flat (i assume) carbon fiber chassis. The same reading also happened at both front and rear. Its like the chassis is twisted or warp around roll axis.
If I were to make the same down stop value on left and right arms the set screws noticeably more protruding on side than the other. Is my chassis tweaked? If it is how do you untweak it?
My car is new and hasn't been driven, when I tried to adjust the down stop set screws (to set up droop), initially i just unscrew the set screws on until they do not touch the chassis. The chassis is sitting on the set up block (on the set up board) and when I measure the reading with down stop block/gauge at the outer hinge, the reading of left and right are not the same. Shouldn't it be the same?As I assume both arms are free (no down stop set screws) and sitting on a brand new flat (i assume) carbon fiber chassis. The same reading also happened at both front and rear. Its like the chassis is twisted or warp around roll axis.
If I were to make the same down stop value on left and right arms the set screws noticeably more protruding on side than the other. Is my chassis tweaked? If it is how do you untweak it?
01-16-2009, 04:43 PM
#1228
You can check if your chassis is tweaked by putting it on a flat surface and ensuring that the bottom of the chassis is flushed with the flat surface. If your chassis is tweaked, loosen the 16 upper deck screws, push the chassis against the flat surface and tighten the screws in a "X" pattern. I usually start from the distal sets of screws and then move to the ones in the middle.
Is this the right part for MS http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53877 Do you know what type of material is the drive cup and does it have the sleeve like 416WE's? Whats the replacement no for the cup and the pulley? Is it wide pitch pulley?
At the moment most of the online stores don't have it in stock however they do have 3racing version of it http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-ta0...th=595_744_720 Has anyone tried this one yet?
01-16-2009, 06:09 PM
#1229
Yes, that is the correct part. The TA05 spool uses steel outdrives, so it is more durable than the delrin parts. It does not have a sleeve like the 416 spool.
However, the steel outdrives create chatter under cornering and they accelerate wear on the swingshafts. I used the steel outdrives with 46 mm swingshafts for a little while (the shorter shafts helped to eliminate chatter), then I bought a few 415MSXX spool parts to make a custom spool which uses the sleeves, delrin cups, and 48 mm swingshafts.
Your friend must have been unlucky. The delrin cups last for a good amount of time. I've only needed to replace my 416 and MS delrin cups once each.
However, the steel outdrives create chatter under cornering and they accelerate wear on the swingshafts. I used the steel outdrives with 46 mm swingshafts for a little while (the shorter shafts helped to eliminate chatter), then I bought a few 415MSXX spool parts to make a custom spool which uses the sleeves, delrin cups, and 48 mm swingshafts.
Your friend must have been unlucky. The delrin cups last for a good amount of time. I've only needed to replace my 416 and MS delrin cups once each.
01-16-2009, 09:00 PM
#1230
Yes, that is the correct part. The TA05 spool uses steel outdrives, so it is more durable than the delrin parts. It does not have a sleeve like the 416 spool.
However, the steel outdrives create chatter under cornering and they accelerate wear on the swingshafts. I used the steel outdrives with 46 mm swingshafts for a little while (the shorter shafts helped to eliminate chatter), then I bought a few 415MSXX spool parts to make a custom spool which uses the sleeves, delrin cups, and 48 mm swingshafts.
Your friend must have been unlucky. The delrin cups last for a good amount of time. I've only needed to replace my 416 and MS delrin cups once each.
However, the steel outdrives create chatter under cornering and they accelerate wear on the swingshafts. I used the steel outdrives with 46 mm swingshafts for a little while (the shorter shafts helped to eliminate chatter), then I bought a few 415MSXX spool parts to make a custom spool which uses the sleeves, delrin cups, and 48 mm swingshafts.
Your friend must have been unlucky. The delrin cups last for a good amount of time. I've only needed to replace my 416 and MS delrin cups once each.