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Tamiya TA05MS

Old 01-10-2009, 08:09 AM
  #1201  
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was it kind of tight when you had to slip the arm on? with some of my off=roads, i just break them in by moving them up and down numerous times.
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:03 AM
  #1202  
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Originally Posted by dameetz
Ok guys I need help ASAP, i just encounter my first problem building this kit. I m on step 12 on the manual assembling rear suspension arm to the chassis, when i put everything together the arms do not move freely up and down. My experience building nitro kits I always make sure the arms drop down under their own weight. I check and recheck the instruction as well as spacers/shim, still its not that free. I notice this when i screw in the rear suspension shaft block 1D. Is this normal or am I doing somethings wrong here? I do have various thickness motor shim in my tool box that I can use to replace the included shims, however I want to use and build as per the manual instructed.
hrmm, there really is no trick to assembling/attaching the lower arms and suspension bridges etc..

its definately binding somewhere that much is known...

triple check the spacers etc?
but i wouldnt see any reason why you couldnt sand just a little off the outsides to get it moving freely..

just with the spacers, if you were to change one of them (0.5mm smaller etc) i would leave the inner spacers (the ones closest to the spur gear) and only adjust the front/front or rear/rear spacers only..


Originally Posted by HI_808
I'm glad that it's going well! Good luck at the circuit!
well i saw track time today with the new setup..
it handles very well once i managed to tame the rear end a little (droop and shock position)
but i also found out that 44mm swingshafts on the front are a BIG no no!

interestingly enough, another racer had a new TRF416WE and we were both suffering the exact same issues on the track..
i'd still prefer a rear mounted motor as I now mainly run mod, but the TA05MS with the TRF416WE setup is now an excellent car to drive
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:34 AM
  #1203  
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Ok I just found out the problem. I took off the suspension bridge and put it back again then somehow it freed the rear arm I guess the suspension bridges were mis align the first time I put those on.

Now I ve got another problem and one potential problem.

When I put the screws to metal I always put a bit of Blue Loctite. Upon disassembling the rear parts which includes the bulk heads and the bridges, somehow the screws were very hard to be taken off so tried very hard and stripped the hex screw heads not one but 2 on the right side bulk head. At the moment I just leave it as it is. Any of you guys have any advice on how to take those off without hurting the chassis? All i can think of is to dremel those screws to make minus heads but I m afraid it will ruin my brand new chassis coz the dremel cutting disc is a bit big.

The potential problem that i can see is the steering belcrank (left and right) touches the lower front belt when I make it full left and right lock? Is this normal? I haven't put on the front suspension yet, will this be clear after that?

Thanks for replying guys.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:04 AM
  #1204  
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Whats the parts no. to make a front diff? Is it the same as rear diff? What do you guys prefer for front drive, diff or spool? My driving style (nitro touring) always been with spool. This car will run on the same track that I race my nitro TC with.
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Old 01-10-2009, 02:27 PM
  #1205  
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I wouldnt use loctite on the screws myself.

I run a diff on the front as its my usual circuit is quite technical. I think you should give it a go with the one-way and then decide if you like it or want to go with the spool.

Also Mok, to change the suspension to be similar to the 416, do you just need to buy the lightweight short reversible suspension kit and some drive shafts?

Atm, I have a spare complete set of trf 950 bearings to replace the current ones but after they go, I might treat myself.

Also what sort of changes did you make to stop the car swapping ends? I've softened the rear and moved in the shocks, but did you reduce front droop as well?
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:16 PM
  #1206  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Also Mok, to change the suspension to be similar to the 416, do you just need to buy the lightweight short reversible suspension kit and some drive shafts?
The short reversible suspension set gives you everything you need to convert the chassis over, with the exception of the suspension bridges and swingshafts.

If you want to make it EXACTLY like the 416WE then you need to replace all the suspension bridges. If you want to make it close to the 416WE, then you need to replace the rear/front suspension bridge (1XB -> 1XC) to get the same toe settings and then just space the wheels back out to the same trackwidth etc.

At a minimum, just get 2 x D parts (53928) and a 1XC suspension bridge. This way you can keep the same c-hubs, bearings and uprights from the TA05MS and just replace the arms etc.

Also what sort of changes did you make to stop the car swapping ends? I've softened the rear and moved in the shocks, but did you reduce front droop as well?
it depends on where its happening..

off power corner entry --> reduce rear droop, stiffer front shocks
on power corner exit --> increase front droop, soften rear shocks

(thats the easiest thing to change)

you can make adjustments to anti-squat/anti-dive, roll centers and others to give similar effects, but you might find other changes are needed to get the car handling right in other areas of the track..

Last edited by mok; 01-10-2009 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 01-10-2009, 05:56 PM
  #1207  
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Originally Posted by HI_808
You need a small spur and large pinion. I've never ran 17.5 and don't know what's the highest gear ratio you would be able to reach, but I did use a 88 tooth spur and a 47 tooth pinion without any issues with a 13.5.
Was that 64 pitch or 48? im currently running 48 pitch and would like to stick with it.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:07 PM
  #1208  
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I use 64 pitch. With the gears previously mentioned, I could get the FDR down to about 4.2.
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Old 01-11-2009, 02:59 AM
  #1209  
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Originally Posted by dameetz
Any of you guys have any advice on how to take those off without hurting the chassis? All i can think of is to dremel those screws to make minus heads but I m afraid it will ruin my brand new chassis coz the dremel cutting disc is a bit big.
I stripped one head in the early days. Two things I did:
  1. Buy a decent 2mm driver. I bought a Hudy one since the kit one is prone to this sort of thing.
  2. Bought some titanium screws - much stronger as well as lighter

As for getting one out, I bought a thing called an "easy out" which is basically a reverse tapered drill bit. Drilled a small pilot hole in the head and then hand-turned this into the screw (it goes anti-clockwise). Eventually, it gets more grip than the screw has and the screw starts coming out. Relatively straightforward - I picked up mine at the local hardware store.

Good luck!
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:06 AM
  #1210  
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Questions?? Rear toe-in different

I too had a fun day racing today (the new layout at SMA is awesome fun).

Anyway, someone who knows more than I do had a good look over the car and noticed that the left rear has much more toe-in than the right rear. Given my driving speeds, it's probably not hindering me yet, but they suggested getting it sorted out.

The front suspension mount is 1XC and the rear is 1C. According to the handy chart at www.thard.co.uk this should give me 3 degrees rear toe-in, but the left and right are visibly different.

Any suggestions on what to do?
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:14 AM
  #1211  
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Originally Posted by PDR
I too had a fun day racing today (the new layout at SMA is awesome fun).

Anyway, someone who knows more than I do had a good look over the car and noticed that the left rear has much more toe-in than the right rear. Given my driving speeds, it's probably not hindering me yet, but they suggested getting it sorted out.

The front suspension mount is 1XC and the rear is 1C. According to the handy chart at www.thard.co.uk this should give me 3 degrees rear toe-in, but the left and right are visibly different.

Any suggestions on what to do?
have you checked for bent suspension bridges, hinge pins or wheel axles?
also check for wear in the rear uprights and lower arms in general...

thats all i can think of for now..
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Old 01-11-2009, 04:05 AM
  #1212  
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Cheers for the reply Mok

I thought it was about reducing the rear droop further,I'll have a dabble this week.
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Old 01-11-2009, 05:07 AM
  #1213  
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Originally Posted by Qatmix
Cheers for the reply Mok

I thought it was about reducing the rear droop further,I'll have a dabble this week.
i now run about 1.5mm of measured droop in the rear and probably 2.5mm in the front (havent measured it yet as i just made some on the fly changes today)..
to me this is all about getting the weight to shift to the rear tyres in order to maintain traction either under hard accelleration or braking.

try a lighter oil in the rear shocks as well...
my current setup uses 40wt with blue springs front, 35wt with yellow springs rear..
3 hole pistons all around

this seems to work to balance out the dampening and rebound of the shocks front to back.. that is, when you press down on the front or rear of the car it should give a more closely matched resistance, but the front should be just a tad slower..

the quicker acting rear helps it to keep the rear wheels planted when transitioning on and off power etc, also lets the rear sink in just a little more than the front.. and i think the slower acting front gives the car a tendency to oversteer less or push to understeer more...

at least thats my understanding of it !!

-Mark
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:57 AM
  #1214  
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Originally Posted by PDR
I stripped one head in the early days. Two things I did:
  1. Buy a decent 2mm driver. I bought a Hudy one since the kit one is prone to this sort of thing.
  2. Bought some titanium screws - much stronger as well as lighter

As for getting one out, I bought a thing called an "easy out" which is basically a reverse tapered drill bit. Drilled a small pilot hole in the head and then hand-turned this into the screw (it goes anti-clockwise). Eventually, it gets more grip than the screw has and the screw starts coming out. Relatively straightforward - I picked up mine at the local hardware store.

Good luck!
Thanks for the info. I bought it and after a few attempt the sucker finally got out. Now I have just finished building my car, what a wonderful sight, feels like I dont want race it coz it looks just too 'blingy'

Now I just want to set it up however i cannot find ant stock set up provided with the kit, i only have the blank set up sheet.

I ll put my car on my Hudy set up station shortly for setting it up.

If i want to measure downstop where do i put the block to get the reading? Is it from the bottom of the uprights (knuckles) like my nitro car?
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:32 AM
  #1215  
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Originally Posted by dameetz
Now I just want to set it up however i cannot find ant stock set up provided with the kit, i only have the blank set up sheet.
(whoops, i had the TRF416/416WE setup sheets linked here before)

the TA05MS doesnt seem to have any setup sheets available for reference, not that i've found anyway..
atm i'm running a fairly close setup to the TRF416WE (including the short arms) and the TA05MS is now handling great!

If i want to measure downstop where do i put the block to get the reading? Is it from the bottom of the uprights (knuckles) like my nitro car?
i measure to the bottom of the outer hinge pin (in the uprights)
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