5LikesAlex Racing Barracuda R2 & R3
05-18-2003, 08:03 AM
#961
input gears are fine on mine, they're so small that it would be a big error in them to notice a wobble. Try going around checking the alignment of everything. Screw the top deck down before you tighten the bulkhead screws on the bottom of the chassis. I got quite a bit of spur gear wobble the first time I built my cuda, the spur was overtightened and doing as Steve said about tightening the top deck first made the spur a lot better.
05-18-2003, 09:28 AM
#962
Tech Regular
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Hey Hermi`
So has the drive train become a little more quiet...too in the process
-Dave
Hey Hermi`
So has the drive train become a little more quiet...too in the process
-Dave
I'm pretty sure that this is because the PAL drive system does not push the shaft hard into the diffs but loosens them slightly.
If anyone still needs to silence their 'cudas you may want to try shimming. I found that if the diffs were loose in the hubs they would make alot of noise. I have about a single 0.2mm shim on each side of the one way and one 0.2mm shim of the right of the rear diff. Individual results may vary as not all 'cudas will shim the same way. This really is a trial and error process which requires patience but worth it to have a sweet sounding ride.
My FT TC3 on the other hand sounds like a blender with rocks in it
The drive train prep techniques I've learnt with the 'cuda may help me silence it a little more, although from what I heard they will still be relatively noisy On other news me and JohnA will be attending the state titles this weekend with our 'cudas so wish us luck. We will be running in the stock class (27T).
All the best drivers in the state will be there so we will have our work cut out for us. Will be lucky to make the B main considering that I haven't practiced much
All I know is that my 'cuda is fast and ready to go just not the driver 
Last edited by itchynads; 05-18-2003 at 09:36 AM.
05-18-2003, 02:11 PM
#963
R2 has sparked my interests, but what is needed as to make a carpet car?? It will be hard to give up my losi? What is the current price of R2 with pal drive? what else do I need to buy?
05-18-2003, 07:51 PM
#964
Re: Front input gear....
Originally posted by Bartz!
I think that I got 1 defective input gear with my R2. The one that I am running up fron has a little bit of wobble to it, while the rear one spins perfectly true. Anybody else run into any un-true inpt gears with their R2's?
-Andrew
I think that I got 1 defective input gear with my R2. The one that I am running up fron has a little bit of wobble to it, while the rear one spins perfectly true. Anybody else run into any un-true inpt gears with their R2's?
-Andrew
...but sometimes it is because the plastic holders are a bit warped... take out the imput gear holder and try to spin the gear....is there any binding..? or slight wobble with both bearins in place..?? if so take out one bearing and try to spin it.. ..you might have a messed up bearing to..?
Just some things to check
-Dave
05-18-2003, 07:54 PM
#965
Originally posted by itchynads
The PAL Drive system has pretty much reduced my drive train grinding to a very nice and quiet "whirrrrring" sound.
I'm pretty sure that this is because the PAL drive system does not push the shaft hard into the diffs but loosens them slightly.
If anyone still needs to silence their 'cudas you may want to try shimming. I found that if the diffs were loose in the hubs they would make alot of noise. I have about a single 0.2mm shim on each side of the one way and one 0.2mm shim of the right of the rear diff. Individual results may vary as not all 'cudas will shim the same way. This really is a trial and error process which requires patience but worth it to have a sweet sounding ride.
My FT TC3 on the other hand sounds like a blender with rocks in it The drive train prep techniques I've learnt with the 'cuda may help me silence it a little more, although from what I heard they will still be relatively noisy
On other news me and JohnA will be attending the state titles this weekend with our 'cudas so wish us luck. We will be running in the stock class (27T).
All the best drivers in the state will be there so we will have our work cut out for us. Will be lucky to make the B main considering that I haven't practiced much All I know is that my 'cuda is fast and ready to go just not the driver
The PAL Drive system has pretty much reduced my drive train grinding to a very nice and quiet "whirrrrring" sound.
I'm pretty sure that this is because the PAL drive system does not push the shaft hard into the diffs but loosens them slightly.
If anyone still needs to silence their 'cudas you may want to try shimming. I found that if the diffs were loose in the hubs they would make alot of noise. I have about a single 0.2mm shim on each side of the one way and one 0.2mm shim of the right of the rear diff. Individual results may vary as not all 'cudas will shim the same way. This really is a trial and error process which requires patience but worth it to have a sweet sounding ride.
My FT TC3 on the other hand sounds like a blender with rocks in it
The drive train prep techniques I've learnt with the 'cuda may help me silence it a little more, although from what I heard they will still be relatively noisy On other news me and JohnA will be attending the state titles this weekend with our 'cudas so wish us luck. We will be running in the stock class (27T).
All the best drivers in the state will be there so we will have our work cut out for us. Will be lucky to make the B main considering that I haven't practiced much
All I know is that my 'cuda is fast and ready to go just not the driver
being a little loose can also create more nosie like you said
.. I find using a .2mm and a .1mm shim works the best up front and a .1mm in the rear.-Dave
05-18-2003, 08:21 PM
#966
So would you get it so there is virtualy no side to side movement?
and how tight do you get your mesh of the bevel gears?
right now I have things at a happy medium, should get an idea of noise tomorrow. I noticed the plastic sheilds tend to amplify the noise but I'd rather run with them on our unprepared track, already seen signs of a stone hitting my spur gear last week, first time I'd used the new Kimbrough gear and ride height was high, about 5 teeth have a scrape across them.
and how tight do you get your mesh of the bevel gears?
right now I have things at a happy medium, should get an idea of noise tomorrow. I noticed the plastic sheilds tend to amplify the noise but I'd rather run with them on our unprepared track, already seen signs of a stone hitting my spur gear last week, first time I'd used the new Kimbrough gear and ride height was high, about 5 teeth have a scrape across them.
05-18-2003, 08:22 PM
#967
Originally posted by akrcracer
R2 has sparked my interests, but what is needed as to make a carpet car?? It will be hard to give up my losi? What is the current price of R2 with pal drive? what else do I need to buy?
R2 has sparked my interests, but what is needed as to make a carpet car?? It will be hard to give up my losi? What is the current price of R2 with pal drive? what else do I need to buy?
-Dave
05-18-2003, 08:35 PM
#968
Originally posted by Herminator
So would you get it so there is virtualy no side to side movement?
and how tight do you get your mesh of the bevel gears?
right now I have things at a happy medium, should get an idea of noise tomorrow. I noticed the plastic sheilds tend to amplify the noise but I'd rather run with them on our unprepared track, already seen signs of a stone hitting my spur gear last week, first time I'd used the new Kimbrough gear and ride height was high, about 5 teeth have a scrape across them.
So would you get it so there is virtualy no side to side movement?
and how tight do you get your mesh of the bevel gears?
right now I have things at a happy medium, should get an idea of noise tomorrow. I noticed the plastic sheilds tend to amplify the noise but I'd rather run with them on our unprepared track, already seen signs of a stone hitting my spur gear last week, first time I'd used the new Kimbrough gear and ride height was high, about 5 teeth have a scrape across them.
Hey Hermi'
You can... modify the plastic gear covers slightly to make them still work.... and being able to have the drive train a tad bit more quiet..
-Dave
05-18-2003, 09:57 PM
#969
[QUOTE] PAL Drive System and Alloy front Hubs would be a good place to start.
So what is a price tag?
So what is a price tag?
05-18-2003, 10:34 PM
#970
Originally posted by akrcracer
PAL Drive System and Alloy front Hubs would be a good place to start.
So what is a price tag?
PAL Drive System and Alloy front Hubs would be a good place to start.
So what is a price tag?
Click here for the price
-Dave
05-18-2003, 11:28 PM
#971
Tech Regular
Re: Re: Front input gear....
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
I have seen this before also.. ...but sometimes it is because the plastic holders are a bit warped... take out the imput gear holder and try to spin the gear....is there any binding..? or slight wobble with both bearins in place..?? if so take out one bearing and try to spin it.. ..you might have a messed up bearing to..?
Just some things to check
-Dave
I have seen this before also..
...but sometimes it is because the plastic holders are a bit warped... take out the imput gear holder and try to spin the gear....is there any binding..? or slight wobble with both bearins in place..?? if so take out one bearing and try to spin it.. ..you might have a messed up bearing to..? Just some things to check
-Dave
It spins extremely free now. May also need to check if the shaft is not causing binding.
I found that this can happen if the chassis is tweaked slightly.
Make sure you place the car on a flat surface and press down the main chassis while securing the top deck. Other things to try include looseing the diff hubs.
Check Steve's building tips on his 'cuda shrine ( web site ).
05-18-2003, 11:33 PM
#972
Tech Regular
Originally posted by Herminator
So would you get it so there is virtualy no side to side movement?
and how tight do you get your mesh of the bevel gears?
right now I have things at a happy medium, should get an idea of noise tomorrow. I noticed the plastic sheilds tend to amplify the noise but I'd rather run with them on our unprepared track, already seen signs of a stone hitting my spur gear last week, first time I'd used the new Kimbrough gear and ride height was high, about 5 teeth have a scrape across them.
So would you get it so there is virtualy no side to side movement?
and how tight do you get your mesh of the bevel gears?
right now I have things at a happy medium, should get an idea of noise tomorrow. I noticed the plastic sheilds tend to amplify the noise but I'd rather run with them on our unprepared track, already seen signs of a stone hitting my spur gear last week, first time I'd used the new Kimbrough gear and ride height was high, about 5 teeth have a scrape across them.
If you are a good enough driver I suppose you could take a few risks for the sake of speed Incidentally I had a wood chip caught in my front diff gear last week, must have snuck under the covers...ended up with one tooth missing on the gear, was wondering why my motor burnt my hand Always a good idea to check the drive train after every run to make sure nothing got though the covers. Not an issue if you run on a clean track...unfortunately our track is a bit on the dirty side
05-19-2003, 12:34 AM
#973
Originally posted by itchynads
Its all a bit of a compromise between noise and free play. Too tight and you lose efficiency, making the motor work harder. Too lose and you could end up with stripping gears when you bump into something If you are a good enough driver I suppose you could take a few risks for the sake of speed Incidentally I had a wood chip caught in my front diff gear last week, must have snuck under the covers...ended up with one tooth missing on the gear, was wondering why my motor burnt my hand Always a good idea to check the drive train after every run to make sure nothing got though the covers. Not an issue if you run on a clean track...unfortunately our track is a bit on the dirty side
Its all a bit of a compromise between noise and free play. Too tight and you lose efficiency, making the motor work harder. Too lose and you could end up with stripping gears when you bump into something
If you are a good enough driver I suppose you could take a few risks for the sake of speed Incidentally I had a wood chip caught in my front diff gear last week, must have snuck under the covers...ended up with one tooth missing on the gear, was wondering why my motor burnt my hand Always a good idea to check the drive train after every run to make sure nothing got though the covers. Not an issue if you run on a clean track...unfortunately our track is a bit on the dirty side
I use to run the diff covers when I 1st bought my Cuda' back in the day
..but I found that they were more of a hinderance than they helped..because if you managed to get something under the diff cover... it would do more harm than they would un-covered.... Just my 2 bits'
-Dave
05-19-2003, 05:12 AM
#974
Tech Regular
Not really 'cuda related but I thought some people might like to see my previous fastest shaft car (Evo 3) in action on a velodrome track. It topped somewhere between 75-80km/h on a radar gun with some conservative gearing to last 4 minutes. Motor was an 8-turn Yokomo S-World Ti geared at 5.8:
http://www.kroma.org/gallery/videos/singleruns.mpg
About a 4MB download.
The car in question is the "white" car after the blue gas car.
Could have probably topped 90+ km/h if I had geared it lower but I had no idea how good my GP batteries were.
I expect to throw the 'cuda into the track at the next event.
http://www.kroma.org/gallery/videos/singleruns.mpg
About a 4MB download.
The car in question is the "white" car after the blue gas car.
Could have probably topped 90+ km/h if I had geared it lower but I had no idea how good my GP batteries were.
I expect to throw the 'cuda into the track at the next event.
05-19-2003, 05:31 PM
#975
Thats pretty sick!!!! 
-Dave
-Dave
Originally posted by itchynads
Not really 'cuda related but I thought some people might like to see my previous fastest shaft car (Evo 3) in action on a velodrome track. It topped somewhere between 75-80km/h on a radar gun with some conservative gearing to last 4 minutes. Motor was an 8-turn Yokomo S-World Ti geared at 5.8:
http://www.kroma.org/gallery/videos/singleruns.mpg
About a 4MB download.
The car in question is the "white" car after the blue gas car.
Could have probably topped 90+ km/h if I had geared it lower but I had no idea how good my GP batteries were.
I expect to throw the 'cuda into the track at the next event.
Not really 'cuda related but I thought some people might like to see my previous fastest shaft car (Evo 3) in action on a velodrome track. It topped somewhere between 75-80km/h on a radar gun with some conservative gearing to last 4 minutes. Motor was an 8-turn Yokomo S-World Ti geared at 5.8:
http://www.kroma.org/gallery/videos/singleruns.mpg
About a 4MB download.
The car in question is the "white" car after the blue gas car.
Could have probably topped 90+ km/h if I had geared it lower but I had no idea how good my GP batteries were.
I expect to throw the 'cuda into the track at the next event.