kylehirano

iTrader: (14)

My friend removed his front chassis stiffner and put it right back on. Its their for a reason. It not only connects the front diff to the chassis but ancors the uppers part of the steering rack. Besides that piece doesnt weigh that much 3 or 4grams? My friend has just about every lightweight part for his CGM, and It still is a little heavy, but you wouldnt know it out on the track, this car is fast, he always has his in the A.

ChadCapece

I've broken 2 universal shafts in the first two week that I've had the SSG . I race perfect heat races, TQ, and then either get bumped or clip a pipe in the A-Main and the driveshaft breaks. Is there another type that will be more durable than the steel one? I race 19 turn, running either a one-way or spool.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Try the hardened front universals from the mr4tc, the part # is ZS-010FH. They're a true universal unlike the CVD type that comes in the kit and they're very durable. I've managed to bend them slightly on very hard impacts but I've yet to break one. The good thing is you can bend them back if you do bend them Last I checked speedtech carried them.

ChadCapece

I've looked into the hardened universals and they are quite costly. $40 from speedtech. Will the IRS TC3 dogbones fit?

ChadCapece

Also, Matt: do you have any idea how much weight I will save by buying the Yok aluminium F/R input shafts over the stock steel ones?

thanks
-chad

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

To use the TC3/4 CVD bones you need to get the Rayspeed CVD kit and then the Nitro tc3 oneway outdrives. The hardened universals are probably a cheaper alternative to this. Are you running the wide front bumper kit? This will protect all the front end parts ALOT better.

ChadCapece

Yes, I have the wide front bumper. Thanks for your suggestions.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I never weighed them but it is a substantial weight savings. They're probably the best hopup for the money.

SalvadoriRacing

just ordered 4 aluminum dogbones (yokomo)......

Now I'm afraid of spending US$40 with junk

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

They're great for the rear of the car, I just wouldn't put them in the front.

ChadCapece

Unless your running a front diff.

It seems to me that the SSG is a car designed for asphalt 19 turn and modified racing. It has a flexible chassis, steel bones, dual diffs. And then Yokomo make a bunch of hop-ups to make it more competitive in stock racing like al. cvds, graphite shaft, black chassis, one-way.

Mabuchi540

the problem is in the batteries, I had a CGM that I had light weight input shafts/main shaft and dogbones (Tobee) and running 1500 mah packs only (the rules for 540 stock) the car was 70 grams under weight.

Using the same gear as mentioned above but bolting it all to a Rayspeed chassis I've had to add 135 grams.

However put a 3300 pack in it and it's over weight.

SalvadoriRacing

how does you car weigh???

ready to run, with 3300 cells....

Mabuchi540

Actually I couldn't be 100% sure to be honest (haven't weighed it with a 3300 since I stuck in the weight I needed to for the Rayspeed) as I have no 3300 packs of my own and only run 1500 packs.

I could try and and get hold of one or find out the specs for you if you like and work it out from there.

All I recall for sure at the moment is that there is a major difference in pack weights.

Mabuchi540

This bit refers to the CGM not the Rayspeed...my bad.

Update: I found some specs on the Sanyo site and going by what they give as the weight of their cells (and not counting any wrapping/plugs and wires etc) the difference between 6 x 1500 cells and 6 x 3300 cells is 72 grams.

So I figure on my CGM with 3300 it would be 2 grams over weight and on my Rayspeed I'd still need to add weight.

Will try and find GP specs.

Update 2: Found the GP specs (but not pack weights) but if it was GP cells the difference in weight between 6 x 1600mah cells and 6 x 3300 cells is 90 grams.