wyd

iTrader: (51)

Man that would be tought thing to do everytime you wanted to race.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Joe

thanks for that... this is parts tree "A", and that's indeed the one whose part number I'm looking for... So if anybody has the part number, that's be useful... I'd really like to use the plastic parts rather than alloy, because it's easier to compensate slop that way....

part number, anybody???

Thanks,
Paul

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

Just thinking what other chassis conversion can we get for SD/CGM.

Is it only just the following:

Rayspeed
Fibrelyte

utieh

iTrader: (3)

I've posted a few weeks ago a link about a japanese company making a conversion kit for the SD, can't remember the name but they are pretty famous...perhaps Mirage...sorry you have to search in this thread at least 30 pages before

raving-monkey

Hi guys, i had a yoko SSG SD a while ago, maybe a month after they came out but sold it and moved on to the xray.

but tomorrow i will be picking up another one again (maybe monday)...

seen as though its a long time since i've had one..are there any recent tips that i should keep in mind....or any new parts out that make the car quicker (and don't say chassis conversion kits like the rayspeed etc )

thanks
Matt

Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Raving-Monkey,

I dont think there are any necessary parts for the sd. It seems to be still awsome out of the box. I just recently bought a cgm conversion and cant really tell if it was worth it but I havent had a chance to try it on carpet yet. There are some things that the ssg chassis owners are doing such as using countersunk screws on the upper deck and middle chassis plate instead of the button head screws to keep the chassis from tweaking. Just get some springs and you are all set.

Blake

raving-monkey

i have still got the tc3 spring kit i had from the tc3 (before i got the yoko) and i also used them on the yoko.

i remember when i had the yoko, i took the centre brace out as i felt it drove better without it, felt a bit smoother...but that was on low-med grip carpet, we have some new carpet at our club now.

for the batteries....tape or battery bar?

i used to use the battery bar but now i use tape on my 12th it seems much better than a battery bar, holds the batteries better...so which is best?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

If you use the bar I would suggest gluing some thin high density foam on the edge of the chassis so the battery can't fly out in a wreck. As far as upgrades go, both Masami and Billy Easton ran basically box stock SSG cars at the last worlds warmup race, Masami TQ'd and Billy was solidly in the A until the race got rained out.

raving-monkey

Ok, what about the rear shock tower on the front?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

it's just a tuning aid that will generaly give you more initial steering since the shocks are more stood up.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

For a bit extra strength up front, I'm using MIP axles/dogbones for the MR4TC, it's a direct fit but you have to use the 'kits' not just the dogbones.

- jayBEE

Mabuchi540

I'm putting in the electrics now, (after having the motor cam machined out to take 540's) and low and behold the Yokomo pinions don't fit in the car.

I got 35-40 tooth Yokomo pinions and only the 35 fits because on the 36-40s the shaft of the pinion (where the grub screw goes) is to long and the pinion teeth hit the back of the chassis and if I got the shaft machined down so it would fit properly then it will eat into where the grub screw goes.

Anyone know any mods to make these ones fit that doesn't involve touching the chassis or machining the pinions?

Tek Nickal

Smaller spur.

Mabuchi540

Perhaps I should have said...."without having to spend anymore money".. :P

The pinions cost me NZ $27 each as it is.

Tek Nickal

A spur is inexpensive and its an easy fix without modifiying anything. Just your gearing, but you already have the correct range of pinions.