Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#9316
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by rc_bam226
Wow, integy has defintely showed up Yokomo on the aftermarket motor mount. I would pay that price anyday for that kind of upgrade.
Wow, integy has defintely showed up Yokomo on the aftermarket motor mount. I would pay that price anyday for that kind of upgrade.
#9317
Motor Mount
Just looks like the original but blue. The Yokomo one is lightened. The current one is Alloy just that it is cast. Would only suit those who want the look you know fancy blue gear everywhere.
#9318
Good point Pops, I remember those all too well.
#9319
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by pops
Don't count on the quality to be the same. They used to make universals for the Special and they would snap like twigs.
Don't count on the quality to be the same. They used to make universals for the Special and they would snap like twigs.
#9320
Heatsink w/ fan
Which shop sells this?
#9322
yea its a reedy part, its around $30.00 u.s. it comes in a tc3 package at my hobby store
#9324
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Originally posted by Shrub
A couple of quick question...
1-Do you have to remove the "outdrive" retaining rings in order to remove the diff/bones? (mine where a nightmare to put on and off)?
2-What is a good rolling weight (roughly)?
3-Where to find a basic carpet foam stock CGM setup?
4-I run the folloing...FRONT: stock outdrives w/Yoke ti bones, REAR: Delrin outdrives w/Yoke Aluminum bones. Any possible problems or suggestion? (Seen allot of different drive-line variations discussed).
Thanks!
A couple of quick question...
1-Do you have to remove the "outdrive" retaining rings in order to remove the diff/bones? (mine where a nightmare to put on and off)?
2-What is a good rolling weight (roughly)?
3-Where to find a basic carpet foam stock CGM setup?
4-I run the folloing...FRONT: stock outdrives w/Yoke ti bones, REAR: Delrin outdrives w/Yoke Aluminum bones. Any possible problems or suggestion? (Seen allot of different drive-line variations discussed).
Thanks!
Hey Schrub
1- No you don't. There's a weird angle at which you can remove the bones from the outdrive without removing that damn ring (thank God). However you need to undo a camber link to be able to reach that angle. Another easy way is to open the tranny case and move the diff out, you can also reach the angle that way.
2- Depends.... CGM or SSG?
3- try http://www.yokomo.tk it's maintained by one of this thead's posters... forgot his handle
4- I run a similar setup, stock outdrives or one way and Ti bones up front, and stock outdrives tobee Al bones rear... no problem for the past year. Just don't use Al bones up front, it's too light a metal... I think I read that Delrin outdrives are not considerably lighter... they're just highly expensive
Later
Paul
#9325
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
IS THIS FOR THE SD
Is this part for the SD or the CGM. I know it says SD, but last time i looked at something similar i was wrong
Originally posted by mymax
look at this one...........
http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...32104542978.e6
look at this one...........
http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...32104542978.e6
#9327
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
HEIGHT/ DROOP GAUGE
finally going to start running the YOKE, so I'm doing stuff like countersinking the top brace, shortening up the wires on my electronics, checking my FDR, you know, stuff like that .
But for the life of me I can't figure out how to check the ride height with the droop/height gauge . How do I use it?
- JAybEE
But for the life of me I can't figure out how to check the ride height with the droop/height gauge . How do I use it?
- JAybEE
#9328
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Howdy
If you're running the SSG, I don't recommend countersinking the top deck and top brace... I believe it is way more efficient not to do so, but still use countersunk screws, in order to fight tweak... The fit will be "tighter" and leave less room for tweak intake.
Droop gauge to measure rife height... er... it's rather straightforward... use the "staircase"-shaped part that ends up thinly, and slide it under the chassis... et voila, you can read the ride height
welcome to yokomoland!
Later
Paul
If you're running the SSG, I don't recommend countersinking the top deck and top brace... I believe it is way more efficient not to do so, but still use countersunk screws, in order to fight tweak... The fit will be "tighter" and leave less room for tweak intake.
Droop gauge to measure rife height... er... it's rather straightforward... use the "staircase"-shaped part that ends up thinly, and slide it under the chassis... et voila, you can read the ride height
welcome to yokomoland!
Later
Paul
#9329
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Lonestar
Howdy
If you're running the SSG, I don't recommend countersinking the top deck and top brace... I believe it is way more efficient not to do so, but still use countersunk screws, in order to fight tweak... The fit will be "tighter" and leave less room for tweak intake.
Droop gauge to measure rife height... er... it's rather straightforward... use the "staircase"-shaped part that ends up thinly, and slide it under the chassis... et voila, you can read the ride height
welcome to yokomoland!
Later
Paul
Howdy
If you're running the SSG, I don't recommend countersinking the top deck and top brace... I believe it is way more efficient not to do so, but still use countersunk screws, in order to fight tweak... The fit will be "tighter" and leave less room for tweak intake.
Droop gauge to measure rife height... er... it's rather straightforward... use the "staircase"-shaped part that ends up thinly, and slide it under the chassis... et voila, you can read the ride height
welcome to yokomoland!
Later
Paul
#9330
Tech Master
Jaybee:
When you lay down the gauge, it reads the ride height. When it's standing up, its droop measurement.
When you lay down the gauge, it reads the ride height. When it's standing up, its droop measurement.