Yokomo MR-4TC SD

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Old 08-10-2004, 04:09 PM
  #9316  
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Originally posted by rc_bam226
Wow, integy has defintely showed up Yokomo on the aftermarket motor mount. I would pay that price anyday for that kind of upgrade.
Don't count on the quality to be the same. They used to make universals for the Special and they would snap like twigs.
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Old 08-10-2004, 04:10 PM
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Default Motor Mount

Just looks like the original but blue. The Yokomo one is lightened. The current one is Alloy just that it is cast. Would only suit those who want the look you know fancy blue gear everywhere.
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Old 08-10-2004, 04:14 PM
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Good point Pops, I remember those all too well.
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Old 08-10-2004, 04:55 PM
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Originally posted by pops
Don't count on the quality to be the same. They used to make universals for the Special and they would snap like twigs.
I agree, but I will propably buy one just to see how it fit and if it work out it will be great. But if it snap like twigs I will only have loose $30.00
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Old 08-10-2004, 07:19 PM
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Default Heatsink w/ fan

Which shop sells this?
Attached Thumbnails Yokomo MR-4TC SD-447_fan_croppedl.jpg  
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Old 08-10-2004, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: Heatsink w/ fan

Originally posted by danjoy25
Which shop sells this?
KT Hobbies.. it"s made by Reedy
-Dave
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:38 PM
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yea its a reedy part, its around $30.00 u.s. it comes in a tc3 package at my hobby store
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Old 08-11-2004, 12:10 AM
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Originally posted by ritchie
yea its a reedy part, its around $30.00 u.s. it comes in a tc3 package at my hobby store
The one I saw, seemed to be a little loose and fell off in big crash.
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:29 AM
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Originally posted by Shrub
A couple of quick question...

1-Do you have to remove the "outdrive" retaining rings in order to remove the diff/bones? (mine where a nightmare to put on and off)?

2-What is a good rolling weight (roughly)?

3-Where to find a basic carpet foam stock CGM setup?

4-I run the folloing...FRONT: stock outdrives w/Yoke ti bones, REAR: Delrin outdrives w/Yoke Aluminum bones. Any possible problems or suggestion? (Seen allot of different drive-line variations discussed).

Thanks!

Hey Schrub

1- No you don't. There's a weird angle at which you can remove the bones from the outdrive without removing that damn ring (thank God). However you need to undo a camber link to be able to reach that angle. Another easy way is to open the tranny case and move the diff out, you can also reach the angle that way.

2- Depends.... CGM or SSG?

3- try http://www.yokomo.tk it's maintained by one of this thead's posters... forgot his handle

4- I run a similar setup, stock outdrives or one way and Ti bones up front, and stock outdrives tobee Al bones rear... no problem for the past year. Just don't use Al bones up front, it's too light a metal... I think I read that Delrin outdrives are not considerably lighter... they're just highly expensive

Later
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:33 AM
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Default IS THIS FOR THE SD

Is this part for the SD or the CGM. I know it says SD, but last time i looked at something similar i was wrong


Originally posted by mymax
look at this one...........

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...32104542978.e6
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Old 08-11-2004, 02:13 AM
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the CGM is part of the "SD" (Shaft Drive) line. 3 versions: SSG Special, Black Special, and CGM...

This part is obviously for the SD CGM. Which is too bad, because I'd love to have an excentric cam to adjust gear mesh on my SSG....

Later
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Old 08-11-2004, 03:33 AM
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Post HEIGHT/ DROOP GAUGE

finally going to start running the YOKE, so I'm doing stuff like countersinking the top brace, shortening up the wires on my electronics, checking my FDR, you know, stuff like that .
But for the life of me I can't figure out how to check the ride height with the droop/height gauge . How do I use it?

- JAybEE
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Old 08-11-2004, 03:55 AM
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Howdy

If you're running the SSG, I don't recommend countersinking the top deck and top brace... I believe it is way more efficient not to do so, but still use countersunk screws, in order to fight tweak... The fit will be "tighter" and leave less room for tweak intake.

Droop gauge to measure rife height... er... it's rather straightforward... use the "staircase"-shaped part that ends up thinly, and slide it under the chassis... et voila, you can read the ride height

welcome to yokomoland!

Later
Paul
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Old 08-11-2004, 04:23 AM
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Originally posted by Lonestar
Howdy

If you're running the SSG, I don't recommend countersinking the top deck and top brace... I believe it is way more efficient not to do so, but still use countersunk screws, in order to fight tweak... The fit will be "tighter" and leave less room for tweak intake.

Droop gauge to measure rife height... er... it's rather straightforward... use the "staircase"-shaped part that ends up thinly, and slide it under the chassis... et voila, you can read the ride height

welcome to yokomoland!

Later
Paul
Lonestar- still not getting it dude. If you lay the gauge down flat on it's widest side, that's how you adjust the droop of the arms, correct? And if you stand the gauge up so that the 'steps' go upwards from left to right, you're saying to slide the longer end underneath your chassis to read the ride height correct? Maybe I'm a retard or something, but I need visuals. I don't know what the hell I'm doing here .
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Old 08-11-2004, 04:29 AM
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Jaybee:

When you lay down the gauge, it reads the ride height. When it's standing up, its droop measurement.
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