Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#7066
Tech Rookie
MIP CVD Installation
Hey Guys,
I purchased a set of front MIP CVDs and axles and installed them this weekend. When I tightened the wheel on, the bearings got squeezed and were very tight. It appears the pin hole in the MIP axle is large diameter than the stock Yok one and the hex hub gets tightened in closer to the bearing and locks it up.
Anyone else come across this and have a fix? I am thinking a bearing crush sleeve (like the TC3) or different hex hub pin woud work but have not started looking into it yet.
Jeff
I purchased a set of front MIP CVDs and axles and installed them this weekend. When I tightened the wheel on, the bearings got squeezed and were very tight. It appears the pin hole in the MIP axle is large diameter than the stock Yok one and the hex hub gets tightened in closer to the bearing and locks it up.
Anyone else come across this and have a fix? I am thinking a bearing crush sleeve (like the TC3) or different hex hub pin woud work but have not started looking into it yet.
Jeff
#7067
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Re: MIP CVD Installation
Originally posted by TKG 27
Hey Guys,
I purchased a set of front MIP CVDs and axles and installed them this weekend. When I tightened the wheel on, the bearings got squeezed and were very tight. It appears the pin hole in the MIP axle is large diameter than the stock Yok one and the hex hub gets tightened in closer to the bearing and locks it up.
Anyone else come across this and have a fix? I am thinking a bearing crush sleeve (like the TC3) or different hex hub pin woud work but have not started looking into it yet.
Jeff
Hey Guys,
I purchased a set of front MIP CVDs and axles and installed them this weekend. When I tightened the wheel on, the bearings got squeezed and were very tight. It appears the pin hole in the MIP axle is large diameter than the stock Yok one and the hex hub gets tightened in closer to the bearing and locks it up.
Anyone else come across this and have a fix? I am thinking a bearing crush sleeve (like the TC3) or different hex hub pin woud work but have not started looking into it yet.
Jeff
#7068
Tech Addict
Horatio : there are tools existing that does drill and countersunk in only one operation.
It's not a big problem for a car with aluminium bulkheads like the X-Ray (or the Mi2 it's a bad example, or maybe a good one in my point of vue).
But when you have molded plastic parts, like on the SD, the TC3 and the Pro4, CAD/CAM is an help but won't solve the problem, as when the plastic cools down it deformates NOT EVENLY and according to a lot of parameters.
This requires prototyping in order to find the proper shape for the mold. Knowing that a mold costs a minimum of £10000 ($20000) but for a RC car's gearbox it might be much more, you now understand why it's expensive.
It's not a big problem for a car with aluminium bulkheads like the X-Ray (or the Mi2 it's a bad example, or maybe a good one in my point of vue).
But when you have molded plastic parts, like on the SD, the TC3 and the Pro4, CAD/CAM is an help but won't solve the problem, as when the plastic cools down it deformates NOT EVENLY and according to a lot of parameters.
This requires prototyping in order to find the proper shape for the mold. Knowing that a mold costs a minimum of £10000 ($20000) but for a RC car's gearbox it might be much more, you now understand why it's expensive.
#7071
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Re: Re: Re: MIP CVD Installation
Originally posted by Randman
They aren't made for the SD yet, but the old MR4TC ones are supposed to fit.
We'll see if RC-Zombies can shed some light on the problem.
They aren't made for the SD yet, but the old MR4TC ones are supposed to fit.
We'll see if RC-Zombies can shed some light on the problem.
#7073
Tech Regular
For those of you who think your countersunk screw holes are out of square compaired to the mounting of the components of the car (this goes for all graphite chassis and composites), you can do one thing. Use plumber's putty that is found at hardware or plumbing stores. Simply plug the holes, remark and redrill them when the stuff hardens. Quick (takes about 24 hours to dry) easy and effective. You can even sand the stuff. I used it to repair a graphite chassis on my YZ when instead of just elongating the holes so I could adjust my wheelbase, I cut out the graphite all the way to the back of the chassis. I refilled the open ends with the putty and sanded it flush. I am still using that original kit chassis without a break or a crack in the chassis or even on the edge where the putty and graphite meet. This should work for most graphite repairs or bracing reinforcement as well.
#7075
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Re: Re: Re: Re: MIP CVD Installation
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Yes.. the MR4TC axles and bones fit! no need to switch rear bones to the front... install them as they are... They are getting harder to find... I found a place that sold them for Half off retail... but I can't seem to find that site or my reciepts... if I do...I'll post...
Yes.. the MR4TC axles and bones fit! no need to switch rear bones to the front... install them as they are... They are getting harder to find... I found a place that sold them for Half off retail... but I can't seem to find that site or my reciepts... if I do...I'll post...
#7076
Tech Rookie
Thanks Jeff W - Glad to hear I am not the only one that has had the problem with the MIP axles. Which Universals are you now running?
To RC-Zombies or anyone else that has been able to run the MIP axles without binding - is there something special you are doing to get these installed??
Jeff C
To RC-Zombies or anyone else that has been able to run the MIP axles without binding - is there something special you are doing to get these installed??
Jeff C
#7077
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by TKG 27
Thanks Jeff W - Glad to hear I am not the only one that has had the problem with the MIP axles. Which Universals are you now running?
To RC-Zombies or anyone else that has been able to run the MIP axles without binding - is there something special you are doing to get these installed??
Jeff C
Thanks Jeff W - Glad to hear I am not the only one that has had the problem with the MIP axles. Which Universals are you now running?
To RC-Zombies or anyone else that has been able to run the MIP axles without binding - is there something special you are doing to get these installed??
Jeff C
#7078
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
Horatio : there are tools existing that does drill and countersunk in only one operation.
It's not a big problem for a car with aluminium bulkheads like the X-Ray (or the Mi2 it's a bad example, or maybe a good one in my point of vue).
But when you have molded plastic parts, like on the SD, the TC3 and the Pro4, CAD/CAM is an help but won't solve the problem, as when the plastic cools down it deformates NOT EVENLY and according to a lot of parameters.
This requires prototyping in order to find the proper shape for the mold. Knowing that a mold costs a minimum of £10000 ($20000) but for a RC car's gearbox it might be much more, you now understand why it's expensive.
Horatio : there are tools existing that does drill and countersunk in only one operation.
It's not a big problem for a car with aluminium bulkheads like the X-Ray (or the Mi2 it's a bad example, or maybe a good one in my point of vue).
But when you have molded plastic parts, like on the SD, the TC3 and the Pro4, CAD/CAM is an help but won't solve the problem, as when the plastic cools down it deformates NOT EVENLY and according to a lot of parameters.
This requires prototyping in order to find the proper shape for the mold. Knowing that a mold costs a minimum of £10000 ($20000) but for a RC car's gearbox it might be much more, you now understand why it's expensive.
Machining components from solid Alloy will always be more precise, but just to use counter sunk screws?
That said, if Alloy gear cases came out for the SD I'd be sure to try them. And use Countersink screws
Personally, I'll be using a counter sunk upper deck and I don't envisage any problems at all. Past experience tells me that counter sunk screws are, in general, the least problematic you can use - whether they be used for 1/8th or 1/10th, on or off road.
#7079
Tech Regular
So being a board slapper myself...what parts are essential to have in the tool box to have as replacements when my driving takes its toll on the car?
Assembly was great, although the instruction manual could have been a little more forthcoming with setup details during installation. Did anyone else have a heck of a time with freeing up the drivetrain? I played and played with shims untill I finally was able to free it up to a point where it rolled just like my TC3.
For running on carpet do you recommend the one-way? I know the answer will be yes, plus it will eliminate having to tune 2 diffs by only having to worry about one.
Sorry for all the questions, but this Yok is the "unknown" where as my TC3 is all set up for action.
Thanks!
Assembly was great, although the instruction manual could have been a little more forthcoming with setup details during installation. Did anyone else have a heck of a time with freeing up the drivetrain? I played and played with shims untill I finally was able to free it up to a point where it rolled just like my TC3.
For running on carpet do you recommend the one-way? I know the answer will be yes, plus it will eliminate having to tune 2 diffs by only having to worry about one.
Sorry for all the questions, but this Yok is the "unknown" where as my TC3 is all set up for action.
Thanks!
#7080
Originally posted by wcoyote
For those of you who think your countersunk screw holes are out of square compaired to the mounting of the components of the car (this goes for all graphite chassis and composites), you can do one thing. Use plumber's putty that is found at hardware or plumbing stores. Simply plug the holes, remark and redrill them when the stuff hardens.
For those of you who think your countersunk screw holes are out of square compaired to the mounting of the components of the car (this goes for all graphite chassis and composites), you can do one thing. Use plumber's putty that is found at hardware or plumbing stores. Simply plug the holes, remark and redrill them when the stuff hardens.