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Old 02-23-2004, 08:57 AM   #7066
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Default MIP CVD Installation

Hey Guys,

I purchased a set of front MIP CVDs and axles and installed them this weekend. When I tightened the wheel on, the bearings got squeezed and were very tight. It appears the pin hole in the MIP axle is large diameter than the stock Yok one and the hex hub gets tightened in closer to the bearing and locks it up.

Anyone else come across this and have a fix? I am thinking a bearing crush sleeve (like the TC3) or different hex hub pin woud work but have not started looking into it yet.

Jeff
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:04 AM   #7067
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Default Re: MIP CVD Installation

Quote:
Originally posted by TKG 27
Hey Guys,

I purchased a set of front MIP CVDs and axles and installed them this weekend. When I tightened the wheel on, the bearings got squeezed and were very tight. It appears the pin hole in the MIP axle is large diameter than the stock Yok one and the hex hub gets tightened in closer to the bearing and locks it up.

Anyone else come across this and have a fix? I am thinking a bearing crush sleeve (like the TC3) or different hex hub pin woud work but have not started looking into it yet.

Jeff
Were these mip cvds made specificly for the SD?
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:50 AM   #7068
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Horatio : there are tools existing that does drill and countersunk in only one operation.

It's not a big problem for a car with aluminium bulkheads like the X-Ray (or the Mi2 it's a bad example, or maybe a good one in my point of vue).

But when you have molded plastic parts, like on the SD, the TC3 and the Pro4, CAD/CAM is an help but won't solve the problem, as when the plastic cools down it deformates NOT EVENLY and according to a lot of parameters.

This requires prototyping in order to find the proper shape for the mold. Knowing that a mold costs a minimum of 10000 ($20000) but for a RC car's gearbox it might be much more, you now understand why it's expensive.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:36 AM   #7069
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Quote:
Originally posted by jwf_frani
well i'm gonna finally run my black SD and hopefully i won't
have as much issues with it as posted on this page.
You gonna be at SoCal tomorrow?
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:38 AM   #7070
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Default Re: Re: MIP CVD Installation

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Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
Were these mip cvds made specificly for the SD?
They aren't made for the SD yet, but the old MR4TC ones are supposed to fit.

We'll see if RC-Zombies can shed some light on the problem.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:49 AM   #7071
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Default Re: Re: Re: MIP CVD Installation

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Originally posted by Randman
They aren't made for the SD yet, but the old MR4TC ones are supposed to fit.

We'll see if RC-Zombies can shed some light on the problem.
Yes.. the MR4TC axles and bones fit! no need to switch rear bones to the front... install them as they are... They are getting harder to find... I found a place that sold them for Half off retail... but I can't seem to find that site or my reciepts... if I do...I'll post...
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:57 AM   #7072
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
You gonna be at SoCal tomorrow?

i will be racing on saturdays.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:01 AM   #7073
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For those of you who think your countersunk screw holes are out of square compaired to the mounting of the components of the car (this goes for all graphite chassis and composites), you can do one thing. Use plumber's putty that is found at hardware or plumbing stores. Simply plug the holes, remark and redrill them when the stuff hardens. Quick (takes about 24 hours to dry) easy and effective. You can even sand the stuff. I used it to repair a graphite chassis on my YZ when instead of just elongating the holes so I could adjust my wheelbase, I cut out the graphite all the way to the back of the chassis. I refilled the open ends with the putty and sanded it flush. I am still using that original kit chassis without a break or a crack in the chassis or even on the edge where the putty and graphite meet. This should work for most graphite repairs or bracing reinforcement as well.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:05 AM   #7074
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The old MIP CVDs do bind slightly after putting the wheel nut on tight. I bought them and took them out. I am now running the Universals in the front and love them so far!

Jeff
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:27 AM   #7075
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: MIP CVD Installation

Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Yes.. the MR4TC axles and bones fit! no need to switch rear bones to the front... install them as they are... They are getting harder to find... I found a place that sold them for Half off retail... but I can't seem to find that site or my reciepts... if I do...I'll post...
If you come across it, drop me a PM, I wanna be sure to get some.
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:33 AM   #7076
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Thanks Jeff W - Glad to hear I am not the only one that has had the problem with the MIP axles. Which Universals are you now running?

To RC-Zombies or anyone else that has been able to run the MIP axles without binding - is there something special you are doing to get these installed??

Jeff C
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:39 AM   #7077
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Quote:
Originally posted by TKG 27
Thanks Jeff W - Glad to hear I am not the only one that has had the problem with the MIP axles. Which Universals are you now running?

To RC-Zombies or anyone else that has been able to run the MIP axles without binding - is there something special you are doing to get these installed??

Jeff C
I never had any problems with mine... I just installed them as they came in the CVD kit. just don't put the rear bones in front.. they will pop out of the outdrives... the pins end up at the very edge of the outdrives.
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Old 02-23-2004, 12:11 PM   #7078
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cobra81li200
Horatio : there are tools existing that does drill and countersunk in only one operation.

It's not a big problem for a car with aluminium bulkheads like the X-Ray (or the Mi2 it's a bad example, or maybe a good one in my point of vue).

But when you have molded plastic parts, like on the SD, the TC3 and the Pro4, CAD/CAM is an help but won't solve the problem, as when the plastic cools down it deformates NOT EVENLY and according to a lot of parameters.

This requires prototyping in order to find the proper shape for the mold. Knowing that a mold costs a minimum of 10000 ($20000) but for a RC car's gearbox it might be much more, you now understand why it's expensive.
Tool up costs for injection moulding machines are well known to be very high. I knew this already. Careful design of the moulded parts ensures that any deformation is kept to a minumum. If drive shafts, gears, spur adapters and gear cases can be moulded accurately enough, I don't see why getting a few M3 holes to line up correctly should be a problem

Machining components from solid Alloy will always be more precise, but just to use counter sunk screws?

That said, if Alloy gear cases came out for the SD I'd be sure to try them. And use Countersink screws

Personally, I'll be using a counter sunk upper deck and I don't envisage any problems at all. Past experience tells me that counter sunk screws are, in general, the least problematic you can use - whether they be used for 1/8th or 1/10th, on or off road.
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Old 02-23-2004, 12:13 PM   #7079
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So being a board slapper myself...what parts are essential to have in the tool box to have as replacements when my driving takes its toll on the car?

Assembly was great, although the instruction manual could have been a little more forthcoming with setup details during installation. Did anyone else have a heck of a time with freeing up the drivetrain? I played and played with shims untill I finally was able to free it up to a point where it rolled just like my TC3.

For running on carpet do you recommend the one-way? I know the answer will be yes, plus it will eliminate having to tune 2 diffs by only having to worry about one.

Sorry for all the questions, but this Yok is the "unknown" where as my TC3 is all set up for action.

Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2004, 12:15 PM   #7080
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Quote:
Originally posted by wcoyote
For those of you who think your countersunk screw holes are out of square compaired to the mounting of the components of the car (this goes for all graphite chassis and composites), you can do one thing. Use plumber's putty that is found at hardware or plumbing stores. Simply plug the holes, remark and redrill them when the stuff hardens.
Thanks - I'll bear this in mind.
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