12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
12-03-2003, 06:51 PM
#5056
Issac: Ahhhhhhh
Cool.
jjmudd: No problem. I like the Rayspeed steering better. It uses two servo savers, so might not be as consistant as the kit steering, but the kit steering has too much slop, in my opinion. Also, the RS steering is lower (tie-rod goes under the center shaft, not over) and specifically designed for forward facing servos.
Cool.jjmudd: No problem. I like the Rayspeed steering better. It uses two servo savers, so might not be as consistant as the kit steering, but the kit steering has too much slop, in my opinion. Also, the RS steering is lower (tie-rod goes under the center shaft, not over) and specifically designed for forward facing servos.
12-03-2003, 09:24 PM
#5057
Tech Apprentice
dialin in a little more rear traction
i have the rayspeed kit and was wondering how to dial in a little more rear traction. right now i have the rear camber links placed in the inside lowest holes of the shock tower and the third hole from the outside on the rear hub.....do i need to go out more on the hub one?
12-03-2003, 11:56 PM
#5059
Originally posted by jjmudd
Anyone have any trouble with the ballcups under the bellcranks rubbing on the front suspension mount (captures the front hinge pins)? Did you guys just dremel the mount down a hair or am I a dork and am missing something??
Anyone have any trouble with the ballcups under the bellcranks rubbing on the front suspension mount (captures the front hinge pins)? Did you guys just dremel the mount down a hair or am I a dork and am missing something??
12-04-2003, 05:24 AM
#5061
Hey guys. Just got done building the car last night (black chassis version) minus my receiver and Keyence ESC. Everything went together very smoothly. Just some comments from my end.
The second steering servo hole that is not fixed in my chassis is very big. The edge had to be filed at an angle to make the countersunk screw securely hold the servo mount. Still there isn't much meat to grab on the edge of the head to the chassis and I'm afraid it will pull threw on a hard impact. I might have to mill out the area around the hole to make way for a alum countersunk spacer. If I could see what you guys did for this it would help me make a decision.
2nd, the stock sway bars look like they wouldn't do much. They're too flexible.
The battery hold down has some slop in it top to bottom and the cells move around. How can I secure this better?
Everything else looks good....time to break in the drivetrain slowly
John
The second steering servo hole that is not fixed in my chassis is very big. The edge had to be filed at an angle to make the countersunk screw securely hold the servo mount. Still there isn't much meat to grab on the edge of the head to the chassis and I'm afraid it will pull threw on a hard impact. I might have to mill out the area around the hole to make way for a alum countersunk spacer. If I could see what you guys did for this it would help me make a decision.
2nd, the stock sway bars look like they wouldn't do much. They're too flexible.
The battery hold down has some slop in it top to bottom and the cells move around. How can I secure this better?
Everything else looks good....time to break in the drivetrain slowly
John
Last edited by John Fontaine; 12-04-2003 at 06:21 AM.
12-04-2003, 05:56 AM
#5062
The servo mounting slot shouldn't be a problem, it would take a pretty bizarre impact to force the servo up through that gap.
You could get a little sticky back foam and put it on the bottom of the battery strap to thicken it up, or you could find some shims to put over the mounting points to hold the strap further down.
You could get a little sticky back foam and put it on the bottom of the battery strap to thicken it up, or you could find some shims to put over the mounting points to hold the strap further down.
12-04-2003, 06:25 AM
#5064
Originally posted by sosidge
The servo mounting slot shouldn't be a problem, it would take a pretty bizarre impact to force the servo up through that gap.
You could get a little sticky back foam and put it on the bottom of the battery strap to thicken it up, or you could find some shims to put over the mounting points to hold the strap further down.
The servo mounting slot shouldn't be a problem, it would take a pretty bizarre impact to force the servo up through that gap.
You could get a little sticky back foam and put it on the bottom of the battery strap to thicken it up, or you could find some shims to put over the mounting points to hold the strap further down.
John
12-04-2003, 09:06 AM
#5065
you can get this stuff from hobby people called g-pack. they use this stuff in radio boxes for rc planes. it's the same stuff nasa uses (or so they say). anyway, i cut a strip that fits underneath the battery strap and on top of the battery. its made a difference in holding the battery down. the nice thing is that it compresses, but doesn't have "memory" so it doesn't lose it's padding characteristics, and secures the battery.
12-04-2003, 09:09 AM
#5066
Originally posted by Isaac
I doubt it. I already have my servo in the other position presently on my SD. Plus I don't think the Futaba PCM receiver is that small.
I doubt it. I already have my servo in the other position presently on my SD. Plus I don't think the Futaba PCM receiver is that small.
12-04-2003, 09:15 AM
#5067
tweak question
i just finished building a new black sd chassis and i've noticed that when i set the ride height to 5mm all around, the car is tweaked. atleast on my tweak station, the bubble is to the far left. i even unseated the top chassis stiffener and retightened everything on a flat board, but the bubble is still to the left. now when i do get the bubble in the middle, front left is 5.5 mm, front right is 5.5 mm almost 6 mm, rear left is 6 mm, and rear right is 5 mm almost 5.5 mm. i've even taken everything off the chassis and hand twisted the chassis, but it didn't really make a difference.
i'll be going to the track tonight to see how it all works out. now, am i being too reliant on the tweak station or is this new chassis tweaked?
i'll be going to the track tonight to see how it all works out. now, am i being too reliant on the tweak station or is this new chassis tweaked?
12-04-2003, 09:25 AM
#5069
that's really strange, I've just rebuilt my SD 2 days ago and I had the same amount of differences at the same places...I've just added more tension on the left rear spring (2 full turns more).
When I had the same problem before, I've just given up...on the track the car were accelerating very straight...
When I had the same problem before, I've just given up...on the track the car were accelerating very straight...
12-04-2003, 10:13 AM
#5070
Imho - If the ride hight is the same and the front shock lengths are the same and the rear shock lengths are the same and the droop is set equally from right to left....all you have to do is balance the car with weights so that it is equal from left to right and it should be good to go! I hang the car from thread from 2 center points on the chassis and add weight to balance / move components to balance as well. Oh yeah...chassis must sit flat, without rocking...ei. no tweak.