Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#436
Masami has an SD setup on the Japanese Yokomo Website. There are a few other SD setups from other Japanese drivers as well. I just have to download the Japanese language fonts for Adobe to view them.
#437
Tech Adept
Quality: Wooooooo. Beautiful! Definitely better than TB3!
Only the quality. but not the material
used). No trim is required except removal of part-tree reminder. The graphic chassis
is the most beautiful part. Space and parts are perfectly fit!!
Layout: Basically same as TB3....
but some majoy features signify it blood!! It is a little bit thicker than TB3
(Of course!! SD has 3 floors where TB3 has only 2). The whole chassis is stronger
and less twist than TB3. The drive train system is higher than TB3 around 2mm.
Suspension is the most unique feature it has. It is totally a copy of MR4TC sp
(I means the style!! Yokomo Fans should happy to hearing that!! They are not copying
from Tamiya). What from stock setup is just like the SP (V-shape front suspension
arm angle... ETC). However the suspension system lets you adjusting it into Tamiya
style (flatter lower arm angle).
Material Use: Some better some worse.
The most I like is the graphic plate (Must be). I love the
plastic it uses also. It is harder than the one used in TB3 except the lower arm.
All the car using the same kind of plastic in the chassis. Some graphic seems mixed inside
but not really sure. The shock absorber is look better than TB3 but I cannot say it is better
since TRF damper is really smooth!!! The screws it uses are all hexi-head and made of
light weight material. I am not sure it is Ti or not, May be aluminium I think.
The CVD dog-bone is really heavy one (I will change it latter). The most disappointing place is
the suspension block. Make of plastic make me look back my TB3. The suspension pin is also another
disappointing. If it is as think as Tamiya, it will be perfect. BTW the spacer it uses in the
suspension is also suck!
Drive Train: Must be good but not perfect!!!
The weight of the drive train is the most questioning area. From the design point of view,
TB3 has a lighter and higher efficient layout. It is the smoothest, simplest and most efficient
shaft-drive I have even seen. However, easy damage of the front gears deducts the mark it has.
I give TB3 90 marks in this area.
What SD adopted is the TC3 style. Divide the whole shaft-train into 3 pieces. This cause
little efficient problem but give a higher reliablity. Additional structure adds more weight on
the whole driving system. The front one-way design is the best I have seen. The metal plate
backup 90% area of the one-way gear. Light weight front one-way outdrive is another sweet point.
The small bevel gear are fixed in the axis with screw and couse no space. The gear box is hard
enough to keep the gear mesh inside. So from the design, stripping gear from dis-position in
hard collision like TB3 seems not exist in SD. The drive-train is just smooth but not as good as
a run-in TB3. Of course if SD has run in, it will be smooth also. I give it 95 marks. (TC3 has
only 85 in my opinion! It is not smooth enough when compare with this 2 badies.).
Only the quality. but not the material
used). No trim is required except removal of part-tree reminder. The graphic chassis
is the most beautiful part. Space and parts are perfectly fit!!
Layout: Basically same as TB3....
but some majoy features signify it blood!! It is a little bit thicker than TB3
(Of course!! SD has 3 floors where TB3 has only 2). The whole chassis is stronger
and less twist than TB3. The drive train system is higher than TB3 around 2mm.
Suspension is the most unique feature it has. It is totally a copy of MR4TC sp
(I means the style!! Yokomo Fans should happy to hearing that!! They are not copying
from Tamiya). What from stock setup is just like the SP (V-shape front suspension
arm angle... ETC). However the suspension system lets you adjusting it into Tamiya
style (flatter lower arm angle).
Material Use: Some better some worse.
The most I like is the graphic plate (Must be). I love the
plastic it uses also. It is harder than the one used in TB3 except the lower arm.
All the car using the same kind of plastic in the chassis. Some graphic seems mixed inside
but not really sure. The shock absorber is look better than TB3 but I cannot say it is better
since TRF damper is really smooth!!! The screws it uses are all hexi-head and made of
light weight material. I am not sure it is Ti or not, May be aluminium I think.
The CVD dog-bone is really heavy one (I will change it latter). The most disappointing place is
the suspension block. Make of plastic make me look back my TB3. The suspension pin is also another
disappointing. If it is as think as Tamiya, it will be perfect. BTW the spacer it uses in the
suspension is also suck!
Drive Train: Must be good but not perfect!!!
The weight of the drive train is the most questioning area. From the design point of view,
TB3 has a lighter and higher efficient layout. It is the smoothest, simplest and most efficient
shaft-drive I have even seen. However, easy damage of the front gears deducts the mark it has.
I give TB3 90 marks in this area.
What SD adopted is the TC3 style. Divide the whole shaft-train into 3 pieces. This cause
little efficient problem but give a higher reliablity. Additional structure adds more weight on
the whole driving system. The front one-way design is the best I have seen. The metal plate
backup 90% area of the one-way gear. Light weight front one-way outdrive is another sweet point.
The small bevel gear are fixed in the axis with screw and couse no space. The gear box is hard
enough to keep the gear mesh inside. So from the design, stripping gear from dis-position in
hard collision like TB3 seems not exist in SD. The drive-train is just smooth but not as good as
a run-in TB3. Of course if SD has run in, it will be smooth also. I give it 95 marks. (TC3 has
only 85 in my opinion! It is not smooth enough when compare with this 2 badies.).
#438
Tech Initiate
I am thinking about getting SD as well. How much did you pay for it? Thx
#439
Quick question for you guys, are the SD body mounts in the same location as the SP? Just curious if I bought a Yokomo body, will the body post marks will line up with an SD.
#440
"As following matter in secret
We will anounce MR-4TC SD Limited version March. 01, 2003.
and we will launch it end of March or early April.
MR-4TC SD Limited version(Not mass production) JPY39,000
Siver graphite carbon plates (Chassis, Top plate, F&R Shock tower & Stiffner) *see attached prototype pictures
Mass production model will launch end of May or early July.
Molded plastic chassis, Top plate, F&R Shock tower & Stiffner.
For now, Masami will use MR-4TCSPF2 for Modified Racing and MR-4TCSD for Stock Racing (23T)"
Question : is the Limited version worth it or just wait for the molded type chassis? FYI : Adachi switched to original Yoke SP chassis in Thailand International Race because he said that SSG chassis has a lot of flex...
We will anounce MR-4TC SD Limited version March. 01, 2003.
and we will launch it end of March or early April.
MR-4TC SD Limited version(Not mass production) JPY39,000
Siver graphite carbon plates (Chassis, Top plate, F&R Shock tower & Stiffner) *see attached prototype pictures
Mass production model will launch end of May or early July.
Molded plastic chassis, Top plate, F&R Shock tower & Stiffner.
For now, Masami will use MR-4TCSPF2 for Modified Racing and MR-4TCSD for Stock Racing (23T)"
Question : is the Limited version worth it or just wait for the molded type chassis? FYI : Adachi switched to original Yoke SP chassis in Thailand International Race because he said that SSG chassis has a lot of flex...
Last edited by daniz24; 03-31-2003 at 08:52 PM.
#441
Kilruf : I dun have the SD but I do have the manual.
Abt the body mounting holes:
The rear body mounts are at the same place as the SP, so I'm guessing they will line up.
However, there seems to be TWO sets of mounting positions for the front body posts. If built according to the instructions, the newer inboard postion is used (will not fit the old shells). I THINK you can use the outer holes to mount the body post, the trade off being that the other holes are not supported by the front bumper top brace.
Hope it helps.
Abt the body mounting holes:
The rear body mounts are at the same place as the SP, so I'm guessing they will line up.
However, there seems to be TWO sets of mounting positions for the front body posts. If built according to the instructions, the newer inboard postion is used (will not fit the old shells). I THINK you can use the outer holes to mount the body post, the trade off being that the other holes are not supported by the front bumper top brace.
Hope it helps.
#442
Matt H/Mo : Where did you guys mount the transponder for your SD?
The stock plastic battery brace looks cheap, any chance the aluminium one from the SP will fit?
I noticed at least two more unused mounted holes fore and aft of the battery comparment. Hmmm
Does the kit come with alternative suspension mounting blocks to change the ant-dive, anti-squat etc?
The stock plastic battery brace looks cheap, any chance the aluminium one from the SP will fit?
I noticed at least two more unused mounted holes fore and aft of the battery comparment. Hmmm
Does the kit come with alternative suspension mounting blocks to change the ant-dive, anti-squat etc?
#443
Guys, there are two SD setups (Adachi and Masami) up on the Yokomo Japan website. Heres what I translated so far :
1) the setups were for 23 turn Japanse stock class
2) Masami was using the stainless steel springs
3) Adachi was using Rayspeed springs (?????? his own brand???)
3) masami used #450 front and #400 rear damping oil
4) Adachi #40 front and #30 rear
5) Masami was using the 3 hole pistons
6) Adachi used Rayspeed pistions
7) Both used 3 degree rear toe
Hope I didnt make any mistakes
Cheers
1) the setups were for 23 turn Japanse stock class
2) Masami was using the stainless steel springs
3) Adachi was using Rayspeed springs (?????? his own brand???)
3) masami used #450 front and #400 rear damping oil
4) Adachi #40 front and #30 rear
5) Masami was using the 3 hole pistons
6) Adachi used Rayspeed pistions
7) Both used 3 degree rear toe
Hope I didnt make any mistakes
Cheers
#445
Tech Adept
I thinkt the use of the Mr4 sp ver 2 in mod racing is just for marketing reasons because the ver 2 came out just a couple of months ago and they probably think it's not fair to all those who bought that car if they would abandon it so soon.
#446
Originally posted by daniz24
FYI : Adachi switched to original Yoke SP chassis in Thailand International Race because he said that SSG chassis has a lot of flex...
FYI : Adachi switched to original Yoke SP chassis in Thailand International Race because he said that SSG chassis has a lot of flex...
Last edited by Kyew; 04-01-2003 at 07:32 AM.
#447
Originally posted by moonman
I thinkt the use of the Mr4 sp ver 2 in mod racing is just for marketing reasons because the ver 2 came out just a couple of months ago and they probably think it's not fair to all those who bought that car if they would abandon it so soon.
I thinkt the use of the Mr4 sp ver 2 in mod racing is just for marketing reasons because the ver 2 came out just a couple of months ago and they probably think it's not fair to all those who bought that car if they would abandon it so soon.
anyway i think masami/yokomo is busy focusing on the offroad worlds this year, we will probably see less of him in the major TC races for the next few months. would love to know whether he prefers belts or shafts.
maybe they'll come up with a SD buggy like the Durango for the worlds?
#448
after seeing tossolini's car at the carpet nats in minnesota i can see why adachi switched. chris had 4 top decks glued together trying to get rid of the flew. there must of been a ton of traction for adachi to say that. i'm curious to see if they offer a tub-like chassis for the SD because of that same reason. i'm afraid the pan-like chassis will be a wet noodle on carpet with foams.
#449
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
The front body mounts are just a little off in either mounting position.
NightKidz: I just had the transponder in the body. As for the battery brace, it may look cheap, but it works way better that the graphite or aluminum old style one. It is basically like the TC3 strap. On the SSG chassis for the special, there were problems with the batteries coming out because of that flat brace. That doesn't seem to be a problem with the new brace.
NightKidz: I just had the transponder in the body. As for the battery brace, it may look cheap, but it works way better that the graphite or aluminum old style one. It is basically like the TC3 strap. On the SSG chassis for the special, there were problems with the batteries coming out because of that flat brace. That doesn't seem to be a problem with the new brace.
#450
Mo : Hmm thanks for the info man
But with regards the inner hinge pin mounts, are there optional mounts packaged with the kit to change the anti-dive etc?
Someone here mentioned the car comes with "lightweight" screws.... hmm so are the screws TITANIUM??
Thanks for your time dude
But with regards the inner hinge pin mounts, are there optional mounts packaged with the kit to change the anti-dive etc?
Someone here mentioned the car comes with "lightweight" screws.... hmm so are the screws TITANIUM??
Thanks for your time dude