Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

I usually use the smc 5000 28c packs, as they seem to work very well. I use the metal tray in my rubber car, and the stock plastic lipo tray in my foam car. It is a very tight fit and needs some dremel work, i recommend the smc 4000 as a very close 2nd, and it fits in without cutting the bulkheads or pulley. The orion 5000 is a decent pack, but i think the gold trackpower is probably the best bet for straight drop in ease.

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

One thing that helps alot is to make sure the axle dosn't stick out past the wheel nut, if it does cut them down and you will have less breakage.

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Need some help on this guys:

when setting my rear ride height, I've noticed this on all my Type R cars:

The rear left corner is always about 1mm lower than the right rear!!

I'm running a novak 10.5 SS PRO on it, and have the speedo on the right side of chassis, and receiver on the left. It's balanced out perfect side to side and fore and aft, but the car seems to always be a bit more "dipped" on the left rear side and than the right rear side, and its anoying to set ride height with this little "bias"...droop is also affected by this of course...so it's something I need to figure out...what is causing this? Anyone notice the same pblm?

Could it be the weight of the BL motor...the motor is not exactly on center of the chassis, and its offset a bit more to the rear left side, which could cause it to dip more on that side? Any things to look for or tips would be helpful

metalracer2

iTrader: (20)

I bought a new brushless system for my type r and i wanted to know where the best place is to mount the seed control?
I’m sure this has been discussed before but i just can't find it
I will be using the losi brushless system

RedRocketRacing

iTrader: (8)

Left side of the car. Speedo on its side, with the motor and battery wires faces towards the back. The speedo will sit against the topplate standoff. Doubleback tape the speedo to the standoff and the chassis. I can take of pict of my car if you would like. I had a LRP sitting flat on the chassis, so that it hung off the side, I got T Boned and had it blow up. I think this way is better as less of the speedo is off the car. Only the fan I think.

RedRocket

metalracer2

iTrader: (20)

yeah please post or send pic

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

I found this too till I started to set the ride height on the outer edges of the chassis rather than just at the rear. What I found was that the rear corners of the chassis wear and so give incorrect readings.
Are you using the metal lipo tray as its best to set the car up with this left a little loose.

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

THanks Ken...Well, the pblm seems to be when setting ride height under the rear arms...the the rear left part of chassis, either under the arm, or the extreme rear left corner of chassis, is 1mm lower each time than the rear right side. no matter what, chassis is just lower on the rear left side than the rear right side. Even when the car is perfectly balanced F/R and L/R.

I'm not using the steel lipo tray...and it could just be that since the BL motors are almost 40g heavier than brushed motors, and motors are offset to the rear left, so more weight is on the left rear side, and that could cause the rear left dip...maybe the Lipo tray would help in this regard in counter balancing the heavier 190g Novak motor, since it would a little more weight across the right front quadrant of the chassis?!?...

So to measure droop, ride height, etc, this could throw things off and cause subtle handling pblms

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

Are you sure you don't have some sort of tweak in the chassis? how does it sit on a setup board when you have the wheels off of it? I personally have not noticed this on any of my cars.

a_main_attendee

iTrader: (2)

+1

The only time i have had something simular to this is when one or more of the standoffs are bent, which happens more often then you would think (for me, anyways)

markf3x

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately the list of things that can cause this is VERY long and the best method would probably be to hand someone else your car to double check all the stupid stuff we all do once in a while:

* Things like shimming roll center on one side but not the other (have done it).

* Having droop screws bottomed out on chassis, often times after changing roll center (we've probably all done this, but did you catch it within the first minute or two?).

* Unequal camber (like when you whack a board, can't figure out why ride height is uneaqual, then realize your crash messed up camber on one wheel (done this one also)..

Some of the lesser stupid things:
bent A-arm pin
Crushed (uneven) spring


the list goes on.... (this could be more fun than the "Uses for Paragon" thread.)

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

wheels off on flat board and chassis is flat I'll check the posts and see if any is bent...

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Any one try the shorter front arms on med-high rubber tires outdoors? Supposedly you get more agressive/reactive steering with the short arms and wonder if anyone runs them and if indeed they've noticed a difference in car's front end steering/responsiveness?

Will running the front diff in the low position generate more front end steering/responsiveness?

markf3x

iTrader: (2)

Check the inside a-arm pins while your at it. They can bend.