tim fry

iTrader: (1)

Do you find running the JR link that it helps with rear end as it calms the front down then?

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

All I can say is the setup on my car right now works for me. It is a colaboration of one of Shreffs setups with some changes made to it to work for me. Honestly there is not one setup for everyone. Driving styles play alot into a setup. I started out with a base setup and adjusted from there to suit me. Foam setup I have on my foam car I got from Schreff and that seems to work with no alteration. I could not use his rubber setup for asphalt completely since it made it too twitchy for me. He had regular links on his setup and I went to JR. That is only one of a few changes I made.

a_main_attendee

iTrader: (2)

I run the "older" 9000s servo and there are no fitment issues.

RedRocketRacing

iTrader: (8)

I could understand that is the bite on your track high? Maybe I should try it again and see it it does settle the car down. We have a high traction asphalt and it might help for me to go back, there is another guy who does run it and he really likes it.

RedRocket

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

No, if anything it is fairly low bite. I have a lot of other things going on to help out with that.

RedRocketRacing

iTrader: (8)

Just to let everybody know, I built a new spool useing all the actual spool parts (since I didn't for get them at home) and ran about 5 pack through the car and had no problems this time. Not sure why it didn't work before but with all new hardware and outdrives in it it was fine. So far.

RedRocket

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

I didn't have enough steering w/ the jr link on my car but the track has a tight infield section, once i changed to reg links i got some of the steering back.

The Rev

iTrader: (3)

does anyone else have issues getting the diffs to be free without slipping? I can't get them right. A 1/4 turn too little, and they slip like crazy, and 1/4 more, and they stop diffin'. Im thinkin about the aluminum hub just to help the cause. I've removed the brass shim, otherwise they are stock. Any suggestions? I run a 3.5 w/ lipo, so they need to be goood.

Thanks!

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

That brass shim was not a shim but meant to act as a slipper for applications such as yours. If you have not noticed the diff ring on that side is not keyed and will slip a little. Slippage was designed into those diffs so you are not tearing them up in Mod.

maximebeauvais

iTrader: (7)

how many time to do break with your type R? and what part?

I'm running my type R for over 4-5 months now, 1 night a week (around 4-5 pack every night) with rubber, carpet and 13.5 BL.

I only broke around 5 ball cup (always the same) and I fix the problem with RMP ball cup and I broke one c-hub and one read hub.

that's it

previouly with my xray T2, I was breaking something every night

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

I don't break things often but when i do its normally a c-hub or a popped off ball end....

Ben + Geoff Wal

don't brake many parts but the ball cups come off or split on a hit

The Rev

iTrader: (3)

Yeti: thanks for the response. From my experience, slipping is what wears out diffs the quickest, so I'm unsure why slip would be designed into it? I talked with Matt howard at the nats, and he advised me to remove the shim. It helped, but not enough. I want to lock the thing so it does'nt slip. I'll try silicon carbide balls, by i'm thinkin it is the plastic hub that is flexing which is causing the diff to run tight and slip..? So anyway, are you saying that this diff slipping is a common problem (or not, depending on your view)..?

Thanks.

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

This info actually came from Todd many post ago. He said they designed the slipper in to help out with Mod so it did not tear up diffs so much, but he also posted a procedure for setup of them too. I will have to see if I can find the post and get you a link to it. It is way back in this thread. From my understanding the diff that comes with the CR buggy and truck have this same feature built in. If you ever noticed the header cards for the diff rings say on them CR. I can't explain the reason how they came up with it, but that is why it is there. So the brass washer is not a shim, but more or less a slipper pad so to speak.

Ok, here is the link I found where Todd posted about the brass washer: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=3400

b-man777

hey all: Who will be on the losi team at the '08 iic race? Thanks