52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
07-21-2008, 01:54 PM
#7681
You aren't kidding hahah, my car feels soooo much better w/ the tekin than w/ the gtb! It could be all in my head but somehow i doubt it. Either way i need a bit more wheel time to get into the a, i'm inconsistent now and that is killing me. This is only my second season back from a couple year break in racing so it will come back to me.
Do have suggestions for a 3.5 brushless (novak Light) w/ the tekin (rs pro) in the losi running lipo?
Do have suggestions for a 3.5 brushless (novak Light) w/ the tekin (rs pro) in the losi running lipo?
07-21-2008, 02:09 PM
#7683
You aren't kidding hahah, my car feels soooo much better w/ the tekin than w/ the gtb! It could be all in my head but somehow i doubt it. Either way i need a bit more wheel time to get into the a, i'm inconsistent now and that is killing me. This is only my second season back from a couple year break in racing so it will come back to me.
Do have suggestions for a 3.5 brushless (novak Light) w/ the tekin (rs pro) in the losi running lipo?
Do have suggestions for a 3.5 brushless (novak Light) w/ the tekin (rs pro) in the losi running lipo?
07-21-2008, 02:25 PM
#7684
If your rear end is loose go to the 4a link like everyone says and about 2.5mm uptravel front 2 rear.
17/15 springs on most tracks.
I've been running 3 degrees rear toe lately 1 on the chassis, 1 on the hub, 1 on the block.
Also overdrive.
45/40 oil.
High Front, Low rear roll center.
either 4 degree caster blocks or 6 degree blocks and 2 degrees of antidive.
I usually always run high front diff on rubbers, and low or high rear diff depending on the feel of the track.
I always run the long ackerman link on asphalt since I switched to it at the beginning of the year.
17/15 springs on most tracks.
I've been running 3 degrees rear toe lately 1 on the chassis, 1 on the hub, 1 on the block.
Also overdrive.
45/40 oil.
High Front, Low rear roll center.
either 4 degree caster blocks or 6 degree blocks and 2 degrees of antidive.
I usually always run high front diff on rubbers, and low or high rear diff depending on the feel of the track.
I always run the long ackerman link on asphalt since I switched to it at the beginning of the year.
How does moving the rear link inwards generate more grip? I was always under the impression that a longer more outward link generated more roll and thus more rear traction. I'm not questioning your guidance just like to understand the reasons.
Thanks
07-21-2008, 02:30 PM
#7685
What ackerman position are you using for the steering posts?
I recently picked up a type R and so far have been please with its progress but I haven't quite gotten the initial turn on high to low speed entry or or transitional steering through s-turns I would like yet, any tips on how to improve the car in these areas would be appreciated.
So far I have found myself running high front w/low +030" rear roll centers, either 15 or 17.5lb springs and both ends, high front diff height with usually a high rear diff height & & overdrive spool. 1.25 deg camber on all corners with std fr link in #1 hole & rear link in 4/a, shocks all the way up in the front and all the way down in the rear, .40 bars front & back, 1.5deg rear toe with 2deg inboard and -.5 outer, arms back in the rear and centered in the front. 2.5mm uptravel in the rear, 1.5mm uptravel in the front, stk hexes, 35wt oil @ 50% rebound, 5mm height in the front & 5.5mm rear. ackerman is setup with posts forward, position 1 on the rack & knuckle w/ a .030 shim for bumpsteer.
In general the rear feels too planted at corner entry and onpower transitions and just pushes the front out of the corner. Weight is 50/50 front to back.
Mark
I recently picked up a type R and so far have been please with its progress but I haven't quite gotten the initial turn on high to low speed entry or or transitional steering through s-turns I would like yet, any tips on how to improve the car in these areas would be appreciated.
So far I have found myself running high front w/low +030" rear roll centers, either 15 or 17.5lb springs and both ends, high front diff height with usually a high rear diff height & & overdrive spool. 1.25 deg camber on all corners with std fr link in #1 hole & rear link in 4/a, shocks all the way up in the front and all the way down in the rear, .40 bars front & back, 1.5deg rear toe with 2deg inboard and -.5 outer, arms back in the rear and centered in the front. 2.5mm uptravel in the rear, 1.5mm uptravel in the front, stk hexes, 35wt oil @ 50% rebound, 5mm height in the front & 5.5mm rear. ackerman is setup with posts forward, position 1 on the rack & knuckle w/ a .030 shim for bumpsteer.
In general the rear feels too planted at corner entry and onpower transitions and just pushes the front out of the corner. Weight is 50/50 front to back.
Mark
07-23-2008, 06:58 AM
#7687
What ackerman position are you using for the steering posts?
I recently picked up a type R and so far have been please with its progress but I haven't quite gotten the initial turn on high to low speed entry or or transitional steering through s-turns I would like yet, any tips on how to improve the car in these areas would be appreciated.
So far I have found myself running high front w/low +030" rear roll centers, either 15 or 17.5lb springs and both ends, high front diff height with usually a high rear diff height & & overdrive spool. 1.25 deg camber on all corners with std fr link in #1 hole & rear link in 4/a, shocks all the way up in the front and all the way down in the rear, .40 bars front & back, 1.5deg rear toe with 2deg inboard and -.5 outer, arms back in the rear and centered in the front. 2.5mm uptravel in the rear, 1.5mm uptravel in the front, stk hexes, 35wt oil @ 50% rebound, 5mm height in the front & 5.5mm rear. ackerman is setup with posts forward, position 1 on the rack & knuckle w/ a .030 shim for bumpsteer.
In general the rear feels too planted at corner entry and onpower transitions and just pushes the front out of the corner. Weight is 50/50 front to back.
Mark
I recently picked up a type R and so far have been please with its progress but I haven't quite gotten the initial turn on high to low speed entry or or transitional steering through s-turns I would like yet, any tips on how to improve the car in these areas would be appreciated.
So far I have found myself running high front w/low +030" rear roll centers, either 15 or 17.5lb springs and both ends, high front diff height with usually a high rear diff height & & overdrive spool. 1.25 deg camber on all corners with std fr link in #1 hole & rear link in 4/a, shocks all the way up in the front and all the way down in the rear, .40 bars front & back, 1.5deg rear toe with 2deg inboard and -.5 outer, arms back in the rear and centered in the front. 2.5mm uptravel in the rear, 1.5mm uptravel in the front, stk hexes, 35wt oil @ 50% rebound, 5mm height in the front & 5.5mm rear. ackerman is setup with posts forward, position 1 on the rack & knuckle w/ a .030 shim for bumpsteer.
In general the rear feels too planted at corner entry and onpower transitions and just pushes the front out of the corner. Weight is 50/50 front to back.
Mark
07-23-2008, 08:29 AM
#7689
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07-23-2008, 09:49 AM
#7690
07-23-2008, 09:54 AM
#7691
I was thinking of thinking either lowering my front rc or raising the rear so that there was less or no stagger beetween them, has this been your experience? I also noticed they every setup I found uses the upper inner camber link position on the front wouldn't the increased camber gain by going to the lower hole make the front react faster?
The .030" ball stud washers are part # LOSA6215 for a pack of 10.
Mark
07-23-2008, 10:44 AM
#7693
Already there and not only did it help increase steering throughout the corner it made it smoother as well.
I was thinking of thinking either lowering my front rc or raising the rear so that there was less or no stagger beetween them, has this been your experience? I also noticed they every setup I found uses the upper inner camber link position on the front wouldn't the increased camber gain by going to the lower hole make the front react faster?
The .030" ball stud washers are part # LOSA6215 for a pack of 10.
Mark
I was thinking of thinking either lowering my front rc or raising the rear so that there was less or no stagger beetween them, has this been your experience? I also noticed they every setup I found uses the upper inner camber link position on the front wouldn't the increased camber gain by going to the lower hole make the front react faster?
The .030" ball stud washers are part # LOSA6215 for a pack of 10.
Mark
07-23-2008, 11:18 AM
#7694
I haven't changed the front from stock yet. I have the front set like Fairtrace said, rear hingepin carriers high, front hinge pin carriers low gives you anti-dive (i think that is anti dive anyway hahah) other than that i have the rc low in the rear again the car was soooo dialed that it completely put my driving skills (or lack there of) on front street so i'm pretty much done tweeking the car until i start overdriving it again. My goal is to make the bottom middle of the "A" consistently by seasons end.
Mark
07-23-2008, 12:00 PM
#7695