52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
08-04-2009, 12:11 AM
Hi Type R fans,
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2° rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2° rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
Just a quick Q... Does the high rollcenter settings rely on the flex to work? I have tried high roll centers and no jr link before and the car was terrible.
08-04-2009, 01:00 AM
Also important is the fact that both parts are not wearing parts and there would be no functional reason to surface harden them. Just be sure you don't have any dodgy bearings!
08-04-2009, 01:40 AM
Hi Type R fans,
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2° rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2° rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
I have also tried high roll center and found the car very difficult to drive. I suspect the tracks here in Australia have a lot less traction than in other parts of the world.
Phil what do you and Lucas think the difference is between diff heights. I have tried different combinations and couldn't feel any notacable difference. In theory a high diff should give more on power traction at that end of the car.
Last edited by Pablo Diablo; 08-04-2009 at 02:13 AM.
08-04-2009, 07:25 AM
Be interesting to hear the answer on this one. I run my diffs high all round to keep them clear of rubbish from the track. Also in theroy it will generate more side bite with less response but considering this chassis has response like no other I never factor that into setup.
08-04-2009, 08:35 AM
I too have tried high roll centers all around and found it difficult to drive too... Must be the Aussie tracks I think.. Too much red dust...
08-04-2009, 09:10 AM
I almost always run the rear diff in the low position, I don't like how the high position makes the car ride flat in the rear.
The front diff I typically run high with rubber tires. It makes the car turn-in quicker, decreases mid corner steering and helps the front pull out of the turn. The car won't "stay-in" the corner as long as the higher diff squares up alot faster. A lower front diff will decrease turn-in but give more mid corner steering I feel. Sometimes on a slicker track or with tires that don't grip as good I will lower the diff to take some edge off the car entering the corners but that is rare.
I use high roll centers all the time. Makes for a very quick reacting car. You might try flipping to low roll center and then just shimming up .60-.90 as this would tame down the high roll center position some. Also Urbain's flex mods probably make the higher roll-centers easier to control. After seeing that track it makes me want to build one. All the tracks I've ever raced on are basically 2d, meaning they are just flat. There is very few full-scale road course tracks that are flat. Would be cool too do some racing with some elevation changes. I got some land out in the middle of no where in western KY. I wonder if I build a track like that if they will come? LOL
Can someone explain how Urbain attached the battery tray to the car? I see how the rear of the plate was attached using the stock screw locations in the pics but can't tell how they keyed the front of the tray into the car.
The front diff I typically run high with rubber tires. It makes the car turn-in quicker, decreases mid corner steering and helps the front pull out of the turn. The car won't "stay-in" the corner as long as the higher diff squares up alot faster. A lower front diff will decrease turn-in but give more mid corner steering I feel. Sometimes on a slicker track or with tires that don't grip as good I will lower the diff to take some edge off the car entering the corners but that is rare.
I use high roll centers all the time. Makes for a very quick reacting car. You might try flipping to low roll center and then just shimming up .60-.90 as this would tame down the high roll center position some. Also Urbain's flex mods probably make the higher roll-centers easier to control. After seeing that track it makes me want to build one. All the tracks I've ever raced on are basically 2d, meaning they are just flat. There is very few full-scale road course tracks that are flat. Would be cool too do some racing with some elevation changes. I got some land out in the middle of no where in western KY. I wonder if I build a track like that if they will come? LOL
Can someone explain how Urbain attached the battery tray to the car? I see how the rear of the plate was attached using the stock screw locations in the pics but can't tell how they keyed the front of the tray into the car.
Last edited by jkirkwood; 08-04-2009 at 09:37 AM.
08-04-2009, 09:27 AM
Hi Type R fans,
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2° rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
I assisted Lucas Urbain during the last Euro and I would like to share with you some infos. Lucas is running the Type R since 2 years prior was running Xray. We worked together in order to adapt the car to the European track.
Lucas was the fastest guy in A Main but due to some crash (thanks Wilk in first main and Huppo in second !!). By the way it is a really good result for the type R, the best in Europe.
Main mod is the flex, we cut the cross on the upper dek and do not use any link between main chassis and upper deck, this allow the max flex. We strap the battery with tape in order to not affect the flex. No JR link. We use 2° rear toe in and 35 wt oil every where and red pistons + 0.50 sway bar all around. High roll center all round. High diff pos in front low in rear. Other adjustement have been variable to the track condition.
I gusee all that flex you created that you only need 2deg of RR toe, which can help more speed and more exit steering for the car.
I been running High front and Med roll center in Rear felt good.
one question
did you strap a battery to the battery plate with the strapping tape? or double side taped to the plate? or how did you taped them?
thank you and good luck
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 08-04-2009 at 09:53 AM.
08-04-2009, 09:35 AM
I almost always run the rear diff in the low position, I don't like how the high position makes the car ride flat in the rear.
The front diff I typically run high with rubber tires. It makes the car turn-in quicker, decreases mid corner steering and helps the front pull out of the turn. The car won't "stay-in" the corner as long as the higher diff squares up alot faster. A lower front diff will decrease turn-in but give more mid corner steering I feel. Sometimes on a slicker track or with tires that don't grip as good I will lower the diff to take some edge off the car entering the corners but that is rare.
I use high roll centers all the time. Makes for a very quick reacting car. You might try flipping to low roll center and then just shimming up .60-.90 as this would tame down the high roll center position some. Also Urbain's flex mods probably make the higher roll-centers easier to control. After seeing that track it makes me want to build one. All the tracks I've ever raced on are basically 2d, meaning they are just flat. There is very few full-scale road course tracks that are flat. Would be cool too do some racing with some elevation changes. I got some land out in the middle of no where in western KY. I wonder if I build a track like that if they will come? LOL
Can someone explain how Urbain attached the battery tray to the car?
The front diff I typically run high with rubber tires. It makes the car turn-in quicker, decreases mid corner steering and helps the front pull out of the turn. The car won't "stay-in" the corner as long as the higher diff squares up alot faster. A lower front diff will decrease turn-in but give more mid corner steering I feel. Sometimes on a slicker track or with tires that don't grip as good I will lower the diff to take some edge off the car entering the corners but that is rare.
I use high roll centers all the time. Makes for a very quick reacting car. You might try flipping to low roll center and then just shimming up .60-.90 as this would tame down the high roll center position some. Also Urbain's flex mods probably make the higher roll-centers easier to control. After seeing that track it makes me want to build one. All the tracks I've ever raced on are basically 2d, meaning they are just flat. There is very few full-scale road course tracks that are flat. Would be cool too do some racing with some elevation changes. I got some land out in the middle of no where in western KY. I wonder if I build a track like that if they will come? LOL
Can someone explain how Urbain attached the battery tray to the car?
I adjust diff height according to my riding height/roll center, meaning I just want my CVD shaft to be pararell to the ground.
thats the habit I m having since RC10 gold tub days and I think it does make good sense by how straight joint run more efficiently, I do that and forget about diff height then adjust chassis in many other way that we do.
08-04-2009, 11:11 AM
Hi Guys !
Here is the setup I used last week in Luxembourg :
Track Conditions : Outdoor/Open/Asphalt/Smooth/High Bite
Front Suspension
Toe : 0°
Ride Height : 4.8mm
Camber : 1°
Kick/Anti Dive : 0
Caster : 4°
Ground Clearance : 7.5mm
Front pivot : 0°
Roll Center : High
Arm Spacing : Middle
Shock Position : 2
Steering Rack : 2
Spindle Ackerman : 2 / 1mm Bump Steer
Camber Link : 1 / Jr link not used
Camber ball stud : std
Sway Bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Front Drivetrain
Front drive : Spool
Pulley : 42T
Diff height : High
Drive Axle : LCD
Hex Width : 0.195
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 15lbs
Bladder : std
Above Bladder : none
Rear Suspension
Toe : 2°
Ride Height : 5.2mm
Ground Clearance : 8mm
Camber : 1°
Anti/Pro Squat : 0
Hub : Std 0°
Rear Pivot : 2°
Arm Spacing : Forward
Shock POsition : 3
Camber Link : A/1 No washer under Ball Stud
Camber Link Ball Stud : Std
Sway bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Rear Drivetrain
Diff height : Low
Drive Axle : RCD
Hex Width : 0.165
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 12.5lbs
Bladder : Std
Above Bladder : none
Body : Lexus LTC-R Light
Wing : Protoform
Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery tray mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50°C.
Concerning the battery tray, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic tray only two srews are needed.
I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).
Here is the setup I used last week in Luxembourg :
Track Conditions : Outdoor/Open/Asphalt/Smooth/High Bite
Front Suspension
Toe : 0°
Ride Height : 4.8mm
Camber : 1°
Kick/Anti Dive : 0
Caster : 4°
Ground Clearance : 7.5mm
Front pivot : 0°
Roll Center : High
Arm Spacing : Middle
Shock Position : 2
Steering Rack : 2
Spindle Ackerman : 2 / 1mm Bump Steer
Camber Link : 1 / Jr link not used
Camber ball stud : std
Sway Bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Front Drivetrain
Front drive : Spool
Pulley : 42T
Diff height : High
Drive Axle : LCD
Hex Width : 0.195
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 15lbs
Bladder : std
Above Bladder : none
Rear Suspension
Toe : 2°
Ride Height : 5.2mm
Ground Clearance : 8mm
Camber : 1°
Anti/Pro Squat : 0
Hub : Std 0°
Rear Pivot : 2°
Arm Spacing : Forward
Shock POsition : 3
Camber Link : A/1 No washer under Ball Stud
Camber Link Ball Stud : Std
Sway bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Rear Drivetrain
Diff height : Low
Drive Axle : RCD
Hex Width : 0.165
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 12.5lbs
Bladder : Std
Above Bladder : none
Body : Lexus LTC-R Light
Wing : Protoform
Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery tray mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50°C.
Concerning the battery tray, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic tray only two srews are needed.
I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).
Last edited by l.urbain; 08-04-2009 at 11:43 AM.
08-04-2009, 11:23 AM
Hi Guys !
Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery trail mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50°C.
Concerning the battery trail, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic trail only two srews are needed.
I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).
Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery trail mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50°C.
Concerning the battery trail, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic trail only two srews are needed.
I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).
thanks Lucas Great run at the ETC! we were all excited by your results!
so how did you taped your battery? did you modify the tray to fits the tape in lengthwise?
keep up the good work and hope you can Hang with us often in this forum
08-04-2009, 11:23 AM
Hi Guys !
Here is the setup I used last week in Luxembourg :
Track Conditions : Outdoor/Open/Asphalt/Smooth/High Bite
Front Suspension
Toe : 0°
Ride Height : 4.8mm
Camber : 1°
Kick/Anti Dive : 0
Caster : 4°
Ground Clearance : 7.5mm
Front pivot : 0°
Roll Center : High
Arm Spacing : Middle
Shock Position : 2
Steering Rack : 2
Spindle Ackerman : 2 / 1mm Bump Steer
Camber Link : 1 / Jr link not used
Camber ball stud : std
Sway Bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Front Drivetrain
Front drive : Spool
Pulley : 42T
Diff height : High
Drive Axle : LCD
Hex Width : 0.195
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 15lbs
Bladder : std
Above Bladder : none
Rear Suspension
Toe : 2°
Ride Height : 5.2mm
Ground Clearance : 8mm
Camber : 1°
Anti/Pro Squat : 0
Hub : Std 0°
Rear Pivot : 2°
Arm Spacing : Forward
Shock POsition : 3
Camber Link : A/1 No washer under Ball Stud
Camber Link Ball Stud : Std
Sway bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Rear Drivetrain
Diff height : Low
Drive Axle : RCD
Hex Width : 0.165
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 12.5lbs
Bladder : Std
Above Bladder : none
Body : Lexus LTC-R Light
Wing : Protoform
Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery trail mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50°C.
Concerning the battery trail, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic trail only two srews are needed.
I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).
Here is the setup I used last week in Luxembourg :
Track Conditions : Outdoor/Open/Asphalt/Smooth/High Bite
Front Suspension
Toe : 0°
Ride Height : 4.8mm
Camber : 1°
Kick/Anti Dive : 0
Caster : 4°
Ground Clearance : 7.5mm
Front pivot : 0°
Roll Center : High
Arm Spacing : Middle
Shock Position : 2
Steering Rack : 2
Spindle Ackerman : 2 / 1mm Bump Steer
Camber Link : 1 / Jr link not used
Camber ball stud : std
Sway Bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Front Drivetrain
Front drive : Spool
Pulley : 42T
Diff height : High
Drive Axle : LCD
Hex Width : 0.195
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 15lbs
Bladder : std
Above Bladder : none
Rear Suspension
Toe : 2°
Ride Height : 5.2mm
Ground Clearance : 8mm
Camber : 1°
Anti/Pro Squat : 0
Hub : Std 0°
Rear Pivot : 2°
Arm Spacing : Forward
Shock POsition : 3
Camber Link : A/1 No washer under Ball Stud
Camber Link Ball Stud : Std
Sway bar : 0.050
Up Travel : Not used
Arm Length : Long
Rear Drivetrain
Diff height : Low
Drive Axle : RCD
Hex Width : 0.165
Shocks
OIl : 35 Losi
Piston : Red
Spring : 12.5lbs
Bladder : Std
Above Bladder : none
Body : Lexus LTC-R Light
Wing : Protoform
Comments :
Flex : Cut top deck for more flex, Alu stands not used, 2 screws removed under rear bulk head, Plastic battery trail mounted with 2 screws.
Tire aditive : LRP Top grip Asphalt, 30minutes, 50°C.
Concerning the battery trail, it is hold by the 2 rear screws and two home made parts which allow to remove the rear stands. As I use the plastic trail only two srews are needed.
I always use high roll centers, high front diff and low rear diff because it is usually faster like this but it may change when track conditions are very unusual (Low grip, rain...).
08-04-2009, 11:33 AM
08-04-2009, 11:38 AM
I didn't even modify the tray, just fixed the batery as in a normal car, it may move a bit verticaly but you can fix it by pasting some foam pad under the top deck. I use tape just to avoid the battery moving backward.
I think that from now on you'll see me more often on this forum
Lucas.
I think that from now on you'll see me more often on this forum
Lucas.
08-04-2009, 11:42 AM
08-04-2009, 11:47 AM
I thought so, no xxx-s for you? man.... you missed one hell of a belt skipping ride!
Hey Lucas can you visit my blog and leave some words?
thanks in advance