Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

Not sure why you guys have so much problems with the spools. I have been running the same one now for two year and no issues.

rocketron

iTrader: (16)

Yeah it does seem strange the spool problems i am running the same stock configuration spool setup going on my second year of racing.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

So I can see why some are switching outta the Type R now. My new SMC 5200 40C's arent going to work in it. There just to tall at 24.5mm. So what are you guys using in 13.5. So sad now. Almost all the new "pro" packs are that tall too.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

just grind rear bulkhead down a bit and some meterial from battery tray. also you might need to shaved on inside of both pullies or just get that fire fox shaft.

do some dremel magic you will be fine

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Yeah, was in the garage with dremel in hand and nudged the back of the bat a bit and saw that the buldhead needed some too. Just hate doing that to the car. lol. poor thing.

Still got the xxx-s all pimed and ready though. Just thought I'd get two classes in.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

The weight here in oz (under the real governing body) is 1500g race ready. Getting the weight and balance is easy too but the weight is spread across the chassis. The idea of a different layout is to have the weight focused in the middle so every change of direction and rotation speed is greater.

Anyway the theroy is solid will have to wait for a prototype to see if there is anything in it. Also will prolly raise the top deck a little to allow bigger lipos.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Yeah, going have to raise the top deck as the battery wars continue. I had to dremel the bulkhead(a tad), battery brace and the 5200 40c's to fit, but I'd say, there perfect fit now. No movement and dont hit pully's after all that.

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

I know there seems to be a battery war going on but my trakpower 4900s fit spot on no mods at all and plenty of punch. I am howerver looking to get this new modified layshaft for the uture.

paraletic

iTrader: (13)

question with the spools.

not entirely sure but i was told the diff set ups are the same between the xxx s and the jrxs

If so do you have too run the two small bearing races in the spool or can i replace these with two plastic bushings from a RTR steering rack i have too help lighten the rotating mass of the spool an hopefully increase some acceleration/punch out the corners. (only running 17.5 class by the way)

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

Diff pullies between the XXXS and Type R are different in that the R pullies have a larger hole in the center due to the diff tube. So there is no bearing in the center of the Type R diff pullies like it is on the XXXS.

paraletic

iTrader: (13)

ah ok cheers

i'll just have too try an work it out then

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Until Fairtrace showed me how to do it, my spool kept loosing up. I've been running the same one for about 18 mos now w/ no issues.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

what da tall one showed you? could you share with us?

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Start with a fresh diff hub, assemble your thrust bearing insert it into the opposite side of the spool, put a little bit of diff lub on the side of the ring that is going to mate with the diff sides, i use a teeeeeny bit of losi purple lube, put the two halves together. you can use a little bit of super glue as mentioned before (i don't because i'm f'in clumsy when it comes to glue) and tighten it down. Tighten it down until it makes contact with the spool pully and then tighten it down a little at a time (1/4 to 1/8 turn) util you cannot turn the spool pully with your fingers and then give it anothe 1/4 turn. You want it tight but not tight enough to strip out the diff hub.

A couple additions i've added recently were the sand paper discs from the xxx series. they make it so the pully doesn't spin as easily due to mechanical friction of the sandpaper.

Catbutt

The problem I have been having with the diffs and dirt is not with the diff balls and d-rings (I run regular ball diffs, not spool)but with the part of the outdrive that goes into the diff tube and the tube itself. Because the outdrive has an open channel where the dogbone fits into it, grit tends to get in-between the outdrive and the diff tube through this opening and creates resistance in the drivetrain. I find I have to re-build the diffs often because of this, the rear about twice as much as the front. I am trying to figure out a way to prevent this from happening but have not had any luck to date. This is the only area on the type R that has given me problems and I would greatly appreciate any thoughts on a fix for this. Thanks in advance.