cfisher909

Does anyone have a steel lipo tray that they would like to sell me. I am going to the nationals in a month and a half and Losi keeps pushing the date back on there trays. Any help would be really appreciated.

Ramyuras

I am searching all my suppliers for a spool and no luck do they make a spool for the Type R.

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Here you go

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA3329

Ramyuras

Thank you. I guess they don't make a solid spool how does it go together?

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

The spool pulley goes in place of the regular gear and diff balls. All you have to do for an install is take the diff apart, remove the pulley, clean off the diff rings with some motor spray, and put it back together. This setup will feel the same as a 1 piece unit, but has some give when you tap a board, so it helps reduce drive line failures.

Ramyuras

Thank you rcracingkid, that is a sweet setup.

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

Does anyone else agree with me and think Losi made a major design flaw in the front diff chassis cutout? I know others have said you have to remove "a little" material so you can run your diff low without the belt rubbing. I made that cutout a good 1/4" longer, and then sloped the top at the same angle as the belt, and I think the belt is still rubbing a bit. What gives?
Did Losi just not want two different size holes opposing each other? Or do they think its not that big of a deal for your belt to rub on the chassis?

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

I just used a dremel to sand a small channel from where belt comes off lower front pully back about 1-1/2- 2" and about 1/4" wide..never had any issues. Also upon power up..belp pulls tight and clears even w/o that clearance. Just gives it a added security......

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

Thanks John. I need to go back and look at it on power and see if it still rubs.

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

.

JRXS_chris

Hi Guys, gearing question....

I'm running on 48 dp with a 3.5, now for outdoor racing I'm ok on a ratio of around 7.0. It's when I go indoors thats the problem. I seem to need to use a whopper of a spur just to be able to get a good mesh, I reckon I'd need a ratio of about 8 for my local track and that will involve using a huge spur like a 96 or something due to the limitations of the chassis

Does this sound about right or am I goin wrong somewhere?

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

Always on spurs...

I'm using the 64dp 128teeth.
Speaking on asphalt, when I'm racing over open, alrge, fast flowing circuit, no problem.
On twisty, "micky mouse" circuits, whit a large use of sudden brake, the spurs las tonley few laps.

Any idea?

Using foams, 4,5 and lipo.

Thanks

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

If I remember correctly, people that were having that issue with the spurs solved the problem by replacing the layshaft with the solid one from the older JRX-S. I think the layshaft was flexing and stripping the gears. But that might have been with oneways only?

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

One ways were the main cause of the stripped spurs. It had to do when you hit a board on throttle which would try to spin the front of the drivetrain the way it does now want to with a one way.

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

About the spurs.

I'm still on 2 diff solution.
Honestly speaking I start to kill the spurs when I hardened the front one...
Always honestly speaking, the spurs start to dead on brake action, whe you heard the first noise... they are gone