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Old 05-12-2007, 07:44 AM
  #3781  
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Well, I guess if we never wreck, then no one would ever need bumpers, would we?
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Old 05-12-2007, 09:17 AM
  #3782  
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Well, I guess if we never wreck, then no one would ever need bumpers, would we?
just keeping the front arms safe dont need them with the new arms the extra bumpers are already out of the cars
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:16 AM
  #3783  
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having cf that goes around the esc is not providing the the protection that you think. when another car hits you, it will be hitting you with their bumper which is higher that the 2mm thick peice of cf that you mounted you esc to.

Hmmm.... something to think about!

E
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Old 05-12-2007, 12:01 PM
  #3784  
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Jeez,, all I do is post a simple way to mount an esc and nod now I've become a non-engineering, unsafe, crasher. thanks alot
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Old 05-12-2007, 12:09 PM
  #3785  
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Originally Posted by EricF
having cf that goes around the esc is not providing the the protection that you think. when another car hits you, it will be hitting you with their bumper which is higher that the 2mm thick peice of cf that you mounted you esc to.

Anything is better than nothing, IMO.

Corally and Xray both developed "nerf" wings to go around the motor area to protect the motors in their cars. A motor is far cheaper than a speedo, too.




Something to think about.
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Old 05-12-2007, 12:10 PM
  #3786  
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Originally Posted by losi nut
Jeez,, all I do is post a simple way to mount an esc and nod now I've become a non-engineering, unsafe, crasher. thanks alot
Just remember that high post counts here don't necessarily mean you know what you're talking about.
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Old 05-12-2007, 12:23 PM
  #3787  
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Just remember that high post counts here don't necessarily mean you know what you're talking about.
neither people who are sponsored
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Old 05-12-2007, 02:01 PM
  #3788  
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Originally Posted by chumanji
I want to convert my 64pitch to 48pitch spur. How many teeth should the 48pitch spur be???? Is it 96t?
yes 128 64 pitch = 96 48pitch
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Old 05-12-2007, 04:17 PM
  #3789  
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I think its a good idea too

I looked at the xray motor guard to see if it would fit, but alas it didn't.

It is much better to protect these new expensive items as much as we can, I would rather get a new nerf wing at £10 than to get a new esc at £175.

Tim
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Old 05-12-2007, 06:05 PM
  #3790  
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FYI - if you feel like running cvd's, there's a hybrid combination that is the perfect length and fits the outdrives just like the stock drive shafts... cyclone cvd bone with the stub axle from a jrx-s or xxx-s.
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Old 05-12-2007, 06:37 PM
  #3791  
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I got to run my type-r today, I got to run one pack before I broke it, surprising not an arm, just a turnbuckle. I ran the stock carpet setup with 6 dg caster blocks, coming from someone who is a mediocre driver this car can carry a LOT of cornerspeed, the whole car felt more free and easier to drive. It was a little sluggish on initial turn in, but I didn't get to try any setup changes.
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Old 05-12-2007, 08:04 PM
  #3792  
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Hey Type R drivers, just wanted to share some set up stuff that I have learned from asphalt testing the past two weekends....I am fairly certain that this car benefits from sway bars on the front and rear of the car when running on smooth medium-high bite asphalt. I say that b/c my lap times with the sway bars were not only a tad faster but, more importantly, more consistent. Any of you that may be running asphalt right now might benefit from trying this....(start with 0.030 in the rear and 0.040 in the front).

Good luck.
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Old 05-12-2007, 08:41 PM
  #3793  
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Originally Posted by CRASH
Will be anxiuos to here your results. I have been running the setup you gave me for the past couple weeks. As a matter of fact I logged a couple hundred laps tonight, practice night.

Later,
Larry/Crash,

I started off running the front roll center in the high position and the car was a "pig". Very lazy and unresponsive. I tried different spring combos, droop, and camber and it never came around. I put it back to the low position and went to the rear. I raised the rear roll center .030 (shims) and the car was "money". I noticed, before the change, the rear of my car would lean quite a bit in hard cornering. With this change it kept the rear end more level/flat. Seemed to transition faster and flatter.

I never made it to high roll center front and rear or the mid .030 front and rear.

Crash,

Move the rear arms all of the way back and raise that rear roll center .030 and let me know what you think. If you need more steering disconnect front sway bar. I ended up with a 25lb spring and no front bar.

BTW: double pink front and rear is what I ran today. Bite was on the lower/inconsistent side.

Give it a whirl. Take it for what it's worth. I recommend trying it.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:53 PM
  #3794  
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I tried running the front diff low (foam/carpet) and lost a few tenths. I couldn't feel it, per se, but the difference in lap times was very clear.

I skipped a week of racing to drink my weight in vodka in Vegas, and now I feel like I haven't raced in a year. Arg, c'mon Tuesday! And I crashed and utterly destroyed my poor CX2 today, too. Lame.
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:17 AM
  #3795  
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Originally Posted by J.Filipow
Hey Type R drivers, just wanted to share some set up stuff that I have learned from asphalt testing the past two weekends....I am fairly certain that this car benefits from sway bars on the front and rear of the car when running on smooth medium-high bite asphalt. I say that b/c my lap times with the sway bars were not only a tad faster but, more importantly, more consistent. Any of you that may be running asphalt right now might benefit from trying this....(start with 0.030 in the rear and 0.040 in the front).

Good luck.
isnt that the base set-up in the manual
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