Definitely going in the right direction. Mirrored as to what the instructions say.
it is insanely tight, almost like it’s not meant to fit.
im guessing this is one of those immense pressure needed for installation and after that it moves freely?

Dont do it in the arm ..... its easier.
I used some simple pliers with the jaws opened as wide as possible.
Bite onto them square and squeeze.

If the plastic is a tight fit intot the arm after them rollup a piece of sand paper and clean the hole out until it slides in snug.
Tool wear can make the arms a little tight.

just did it, thanks for your help. I was a little nervous about breaking it, but 2 sets of pliers later, we’re there.

Body posts
 

I’ve looked at numerous YouTube. Videos, tutorials, setups online but still feel there isn’t much that talks about this as a noob.

For mounting the bodyshell, I know I need to use the rear mounts that go through the spoiler where the rear horizontal posts go through, but how do I know how short to cut the rear and front posts.

I’ve seen images of Ronald Volker’s car from ETS who obviously runs this car and the same bodyshell, so I could just copy that, but are there tips on where to start with cutting posts and mounting tips, just don’t want to screw up the mounting step.

Also, for the rear post mounts that go through the spoiler (A2439E), are you screwing into the rear of the body, or just from the top.

thanks

A bit of trial and error could see you through this. Trim and test fit until you the shell fits. If you can grab an extra set of A2439 chop with peace of mind. Having said that, I'm running the Speciale, and my front posts have 8.5 holes remaining, and rear posts have 7 holes remaining. The pics show where everything lines up in the end for me with those hole counts.

I attach each A2539E with 2 screws through the spoiler and shell, and with 1 screw from the rear. However, there are similar designs out there (e.g., RC Maker) that only mount from the top through the spoiler and shell with no rear screw.




https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...54838d8203.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c6f67c68d4.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...9cd19288c7.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...ea19c585e2.jpg

thank you for the images, that is very helpful.
just need to get a ride height gauge to set that and then I’ll deal with the body,

appreciate your time

Been running the car for the past few months on high bite black carpet.
Still testing and trying different things but so far this has been my fastest setup.

I did mod the rear hubs by flipping them upside down.
I have 2 identical setups on both cars - one normal rear hubs and one flipped.
Flipping them gave me the same rotational feel I always felt on Mi9's
Picked up 2tenths on my average and the rear is very stable.

Need a 12mm countersunk screw for the hub side and a 8mm grub screw loctite into the steering arm.
Flip them and use the same shims - I started with 2.5mm shims on the steering knuckle.

You made that much time on flipping them. That’s crazy.

also, I forgot to ask, do you have any shims on the rear post mounts?

No, I do not. But that's just me.

Interesting. What change does flipping the hubs give you? Did it make the rear more stable?

It changes (increases) the rate of the reactive toe .... not the amount of rear toe but how quick it reacts.
I always liked the feel of this way on my Schuie's.
Im the type of driver that likes to throw the car hard into turns since many of the tracks I race on are tighter ones.
But I also got nervous with the wiggle on entry with the normal setup.
So I experimented and flipped my rears like the Schuies are and I can throw the car hard or hug a sweeper now with no wiggle entry to mid corner.

Plus it lowers the CG a fractional amount and you dont need a ton of shims.
Stability and Rotation.

Great explanation thank you! I will give it a try on my car sounds like it is more of a minor adjustment.

Looking at your setup, you run 5 degree caster in the rear? Also, you run bypass shocks in the rear. What made you go in that direction? We usually see it in the front only. The hub thing is quite intriguing, definitely something to try. How did you set up the caster with the hub upside down? Set it up with the hub the normal way and then flipping it?

Martin Paradis

A few weeks ago, Coelho posted regarding uses more or less rear castor. Last week at our club race I played with it on my car e.g increasing rear castor and felt it improved the car’s rotation, on a layout that had continuous direction change. It’s definitely something to test out