TC3 Assembly Tips, Factory Team Kit
03-08-2003, 05:14 PM
#211
the irs light weight aluminum spur gear mount seems like a decent piece, runs very true. light weight as well.
03-08-2003, 07:48 PM
#213
I have the IRS spur gear mount. It is lightweight, but mine wobbles. It's not a tight fit on my IRS aluminum input shafts...I even shimmed the spur gear mount. I'm thinkin it must be the shafts---not thick enough.
03-08-2003, 08:53 PM
#215
Tech Adept
Got a few questions here....
1. How do you adjust the gear mesh?
2. My car rolls smoothly if I don't have the motor and ESC installed. Once the motor and ESC is installed, it seems like I can't even push the car to roll. Is that normal?
3. Could someone post pics of their chassis. If this is not the right thread, can you attach a link. I'm trying to find the best layout to locate my ESC, receiver and switch.
Thanks
1. How do you adjust the gear mesh?
2. My car rolls smoothly if I don't have the motor and ESC installed. Once the motor and ESC is installed, it seems like I can't even push the car to roll. Is that normal?
3. Could someone post pics of their chassis. If this is not the right thread, can you attach a link. I'm trying to find the best layout to locate my ESC, receiver and switch.
Thanks
03-08-2003, 10:56 PM
#217
The car should not roll (without a push) once the motor is installed. The force the magnets have on the armature in the motor is what keeps it from rolling. The installation of the ESC should have no effect on the cars free rolling capability. Unless you have a wire wrapped around the shaft, or in the gearmesh.... Setting gearmesh requires a little bit of play between the gears. If you want an easy way, take a slip of notebook paper and put it between the spur gear and the pinion gear, press the pinion against the spur making sure the paper is inbetween them. Tighten the motor clamp, and rotate the spur to remove the paper. Your gearmesh SHOULD be just about right. This does however work best with 48 pitch gears, and not so accurate with 64 pitch.
- Dave
- Dave
03-11-2003, 11:34 AM
#218
One-way Diff Outdrives Discontinued
Seems the outdrives are out of stock and discontinued at our distributor and at Associated. A crisis is brewing. Anybody know why other than they break a lot.
Is there another brand of one-way availble at the present? I see that the Yokomo TC3 outdrive is out of stock at one web retailer as well.
Is there another brand of one-way availble at the present? I see that the Yokomo TC3 outdrive is out of stock at one web retailer as well.
03-11-2003, 12:13 PM
#219
Tech Adept
In a recent article by craig drescher he mentioned something about a new heavier duty one way he was using. No details on part codes or anything.
At a guess I'd say it's the same one they are using in the ntc3.
Not 100% though.
At a guess I'd say it's the same one they are using in the ntc3.
Not 100% though.
03-11-2003, 12:15 PM
#220
Tech Fanatic
will the yokomo ntc3 oneway work in the ft tc3? it looks like it has a diff shape but the cases are the same so i would think it would work.
03-11-2003, 12:23 PM
#221
Tech Adept
Dont most people use the Heavy Duty Yokomo one way for tc3 anyway? What advantage would there be using teh one for the ntc3 vs tc3?
03-11-2003, 12:33 PM
#222
the only problem with the NTC3 oneway is the oudrives are longer and so won't work on the TC3. I think the center part which includes the one-way bearings is the same. I just need outdrives. Can possibly another brand of outdrive be modified to fit? I think the one-way bearings are a metric size, 4mm. megatech has a oneway available with delrin outdrives. The way the steel ones shatter, I would think the delrin would be short lived.
I think rounding and polishing the inner part of the edges of the U channel will make them more shatter resistant.
I think rounding and polishing the inner part of the edges of the U channel will make them more shatter resistant.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-11-2003 at 01:04 PM.
03-11-2003, 05:27 PM
#223
Tech Adept
Originally posted by DaveW
gearmesh.... Setting gearmesh requires a little bit of play between the gears. If you want an easy way, take a slip of notebook paper and put it between the spur gear and the pinion gear, press the pinion against the spur making sure the paper is inbetween them. Tighten the motor clamp, and rotate the spur to remove the paper. Your gearmesh SHOULD be just about right. This does however work best with 48 pitch gears, and not so accurate with 64 pitch.
- Dave
gearmesh.... Setting gearmesh requires a little bit of play between the gears. If you want an easy way, take a slip of notebook paper and put it between the spur gear and the pinion gear, press the pinion against the spur making sure the paper is inbetween them. Tighten the motor clamp, and rotate the spur to remove the paper. Your gearmesh SHOULD be just about right. This does however work best with 48 pitch gears, and not so accurate with 64 pitch.
- Dave
03-11-2003, 06:05 PM
#224
To change gear mesh, you loosen the screws that hold the motor clamp, and then rotate the motor. Rotating it one way tightens the mesh... the other, of course loosens it. Gears, as they get dust and dirt on them, will inherently make more noise. 48 pitch gears arent as quiet as 64 pitch. But if your gear mesh is too tight... your gears will whine. You will have to experiment to see... 
- Dave
- Dave
