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Old 03-08-2003, 06:14 PM   #211
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the irs light weight aluminum spur gear mount seems like a decent piece, runs very true. light weight as well.
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Old 03-08-2003, 08:25 PM   #212
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hey spaz, your right. I have the irs spur mount and it runs straight and true. I am tempted to pick up another for my other car.
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Old 03-08-2003, 08:48 PM   #213
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I have the IRS spur gear mount. It is lightweight, but mine wobbles. It's not a tight fit on my IRS aluminum input shafts...I even shimmed the spur gear mount. I'm thinkin it must be the shafts---not thick enough.
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Old 03-08-2003, 09:33 PM   #214
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I was curious about the layshafts too. Im still running the stock steel ones. You guys (shark and spaz) that are running the IRS gear adapter, and it runs true... are you using the standard AE layshafts? Thanx for the help!
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Old 03-08-2003, 09:53 PM   #215
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Got a few questions here....

1. How do you adjust the gear mesh?

2. My car rolls smoothly if I don't have the motor and ESC installed. Once the motor and ESC is installed, it seems like I can't even push the car to roll. Is that normal?

3. Could someone post pics of their chassis. If this is not the right thread, can you attach a link. I'm trying to find the best layout to locate my ESC, receiver and switch.

Thanks
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Old 03-08-2003, 11:49 PM   #216
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Heres one way, but it isnt stock...
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Old 03-08-2003, 11:56 PM   #217
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The car should not roll (without a push) once the motor is installed. The force the magnets have on the armature in the motor is what keeps it from rolling. The installation of the ESC should have no effect on the cars free rolling capability. Unless you have a wire wrapped around the shaft, or in the gearmesh.... Setting gearmesh requires a little bit of play between the gears. If you want an easy way, take a slip of notebook paper and put it between the spur gear and the pinion gear, press the pinion against the spur making sure the paper is inbetween them. Tighten the motor clamp, and rotate the spur to remove the paper. Your gearmesh SHOULD be just about right. This does however work best with 48 pitch gears, and not so accurate with 64 pitch.
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Old 03-11-2003, 12:34 PM   #218
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Default One-way Diff Outdrives Discontinued

Seems the outdrives are out of stock and discontinued at our distributor and at Associated. A crisis is brewing. Anybody know why other than they break a lot.

Is there another brand of one-way availble at the present? I see that the Yokomo TC3 outdrive is out of stock at one web retailer as well.
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Old 03-11-2003, 01:13 PM   #219
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In a recent article by craig drescher he mentioned something about a new heavier duty one way he was using. No details on part codes or anything.
At a guess I'd say it's the same one they are using in the ntc3.
Not 100% though.
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Old 03-11-2003, 01:15 PM   #220
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will the yokomo ntc3 oneway work in the ft tc3? it looks like it has a diff shape but the cases are the same so i would think it would work.
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Old 03-11-2003, 01:23 PM   #221
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Dont most people use the Heavy Duty Yokomo one way for tc3 anyway? What advantage would there be using teh one for the ntc3 vs tc3?
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Old 03-11-2003, 01:33 PM   #222
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the only problem with the NTC3 oneway is the oudrives are longer and so won't work on the TC3. I think the center part which includes the one-way bearings is the same. I just need outdrives. Can possibly another brand of outdrive be modified to fit? I think the one-way bearings are a metric size, 4mm. megatech has a oneway available with delrin outdrives. The way the steel ones shatter, I would think the delrin would be short lived.

I think rounding and polishing the inner part of the edges of the U channel will make them more shatter resistant.

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Old 03-11-2003, 06:27 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
gearmesh.... Setting gearmesh requires a little bit of play between the gears. If you want an easy way, take a slip of notebook paper and put it between the spur gear and the pinion gear, press the pinion against the spur making sure the paper is inbetween them. Tighten the motor clamp, and rotate the spur to remove the paper. Your gearmesh SHOULD be just about right. This does however work best with 48 pitch gears, and not so accurate with 64 pitch.
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Got a little bit confused here... There seems to be a little bit of a play with my gearmesh. Is that one of the reasons why it's too noisy when I accelerate. I know down at my local track, there are some cars that are really SUPER QUIET. Can't even tell if there's a motor on it. Anyway, how do you tighten up the gearmesh. Both motor clamp screws are pretty much tight enough
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Old 03-11-2003, 07:05 PM   #224
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To change gear mesh, you loosen the screws that hold the motor clamp, and then rotate the motor. Rotating it one way tightens the mesh... the other, of course loosens it. Gears, as they get dust and dirt on them, will inherently make more noise. 48 pitch gears arent as quiet as 64 pitch. But if your gear mesh is too tight... your gears will whine. You will have to experiment to see...
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Old 03-11-2003, 07:07 PM   #225
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John... doesnt IRS make a one way for the TC3? Or is that the spool i am thinking about?
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