chongo

iTrader: (3)

Don't only change rear droop!
Add a little more to the front, take away from the rear!
I normally run 2mm above ride height in the front and 3mm in the rear.
Sometimes mine gets loose depending on the track, but I found 2.5mm all around dials it back in.

Another thing is make sure your droop is the same at each end of the car. Left/right front equal, Left/right rear equal!
This is huge! An uneven droop will create setup havoc!

Pickup the end of the car your working on, then let the tires hit the table slowly. See if one is touching before the other.
If so change a little from each side until equal.

not the way i do it but it gives you an idea. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQt6iv175mw


If you have a smart phone - Martin Crisp's Workbench rc setup App is a great aid at the track. http://www.setupworkbench.com/
It has a setup helper in it and covers many changes to aid you when setup issues arise.

RacerRay

Hey Scott (indy), I will 3rd the droop fix. Here are a few tips that may help with setting droop.
1. When setting for left and right equality, use the teter method. Example: To check the front, place the car on the edge of your setup board or table with the front tires on and the rear tires off, about middle chassis. Pull the rear of the car down lifting the front tires off the surface. Note any differences and adjust. I like this method because it sets the droop to the chassis assuming its not tweaked.

2. To set the amount of droop. Very simular to the video posted previously. This method will take a bit more feel, but I think its very acurate. I will explain. To set the front, place one hand on each tire holding it to the table. Then grab the top corners of the shock tower with you fingers and lift. Now this is where the feel comes in. No matter what setup tools or gauges are used, it is difficult to find the total droop or uptravel when the chassis is set to sit on a precision block. The TC5 having the older style ballcup and studs tend to have alot of play, and while you may have it set to the T, there still may be some extra in the play. After using this method, you will develop the touch to set your droop by feel.

I started doing this at the usvta snats (where we met). since then i have become a whiz at droop setting. They line up around the track for me to setup their cars. no not really.lol. Anyway good man, hope it not the next usvta snats till we run into each other.

IndyHobbies.com

Man guys, I sure appreciate the advice and help! Gotta love these forums!

Ray, I'm pretty sure I remember you. So many new faces that weekend. It was great wasn't it!

I will print this information off to save. Hopefully I can get some quiet time this week in the evenings to work on my TC5. If not, I'll get to the track early and work on it there.

Again, thank you!

Scott

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

I used to have a similar problem with my 17.5 tc5. I solved it by not only adjusting rear droop (as everyone has stated) but also by adjusting the front shocks. I ran them in the 3rd hole, closer to vertical, and ran stiffer springs and found this helped as well. I believe you said you are running 3 degrees rear toe? That seems right, as I found that 2 was too little and still caused it to break loose on entry and mid corner.

Associatedkid

Anyone Know if The associated TC6 gear diff will fit in a TC5? Im pretty sure I would have to do some sanding and shiming.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Can you tell me if anything else is required to use the LOSA3344 on the TC5?

Thanks
Dave

IndyHobbies.com

What's everyone's favorite Lipo Battery holder for the TC5? I've got one of my TC5's on ebay right now and its still got the NiMH battery holder as you can see in the photo. I want to be able to tell the buyer what/where to go to get a good bracket/holder. I'm sure most people run Lipos these days, so its a given he'll need something that works.

Thanks

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

This is what I use but use caution as mine delaminated right away and digity basically said it was my fault that their carbon fiber seperated. I reglued it but be cautious about after purchase support.

http://www.diggitydesigns.com/Associ...race_Rev2.html
.


Also, has anyone used those losi 3344 double jointed CVD's in the TC5?

IndyHobbies.com

Thanks, I'd seen those, but didn't know where they came from. I'll suggest that to them in lieu of something else.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Guys, anyone know of a gear diff that works? I researched and saw the BD5 diff would work so I got a Spec-R bd5 diff and it just won't work. The bearing mounting area of the diff is too narrow. I've attached a pic to show. I'm looking for another solution if anyone has one. As you can see to get the belt aligned properly there is no more material on the diff for the bearing to sit. Same issue w/ diff reversed.

Thanks
Dave

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

The bd-5 diff will work, but you need to use a stack of shims to get the spacing correct.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Look at the attached pic and tell me how..

mos-leung

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post11400352

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Not sure if that link was for me but I don't know if the tc6 diff fits either.

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Anyone ever measure their track width? I'm wondering if what i've measured is acceptable. I thought it was supposed to be 190mm but perhaps that is w/ shims added. I've got 3deg rear toe in and 0deg in front. I measured the track at the top center of each tire to average the rear toe offset in track. I came up w/ 184.944mm in front and 182.562mm in the rear. I'm wondering if this is typical or not.

Thanks
Dave