Team Associated TC5
12-16-2009, 03:42 PM
Suspended
You can change the spur gear with Greigs bulkheads in just over 3 mins (yes I timed myself), so probably no longer than standard bulkheads anyway 
12-17-2009, 05:34 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
If I'm right, at modified chassis at front you have "new steering block",
is another then asso one. What is this and what give to you?
About ackerman, at 13.5T chassis you have steering links
more forward at servo saver then at modified class, may I ask why?
At modified they are almost in line.
Black swaybar at front, why this one or when use it?
I still drive silver at front and black at rear, I'm looking for info
when try change swaybars ..
About shocks, they are attached to lower hole on towers, may I ask why?
Or when/why you change kit setup position to this one? What this gives to you?
About spring, when my rear want spin out I change sliver to green and now
is much better, maybe I do something wrong or lost something ...
BTW there is my last setup: http://www.rc-setups.com/setups/250/edit/
I think the best one that I ever have
Can you help?
Regards!
m.
ps: sorry for my English
is another then asso one. What is this and what give to you?
About ackerman, at 13.5T chassis you have steering links
more forward at servo saver then at modified class, may I ask why?
At modified they are almost in line.
Black swaybar at front, why this one or when use it?
I still drive silver at front and black at rear, I'm looking for info
when try change swaybars ..
About shocks, they are attached to lower hole on towers, may I ask why?
Or when/why you change kit setup position to this one? What this gives to you?
About spring, when my rear want spin out I change sliver to green and now
is much better, maybe I do something wrong or lost something ...
BTW there is my last setup: http://www.rc-setups.com/setups/250/edit/
I think the best one that I ever have
Can you help?
Regards!
m.
ps: sorry for my English
12-17-2009, 07:22 AM
12-17-2009, 08:27 AM
Seriously, testing gold ball studs? You and Bob need to go talk to Cliff and the rest of the decision makers so that you can either start producing performance improvement parts like you have been running or just start fresh with a new car. 
12-17-2009, 08:50 AM
Tech Adept
I've got a PPD billet lipo weight in the battery tray with a Diggity lipo tray and am running flipped belts. The front belt passes really close to the lipo tray because it's sitting on top of the PPD billet weight. Hopefully with the motor moved in 5mm I'll be able to get rid of the chassis weight plate. If not I'll just have to grind down the corner of the Diggity tray.
12-17-2009, 09:20 AM
If I'm right, at modified chassis at front you have "new steering block",
is another then asso one. What is this and what give to you?
The steering blocks on the modified car are Losi. In conjunction witht these we use the Losi dual joint driveshafts. The stock driveshafts can someties bind at full travel and these allow the full travel and ultimately more steering for higher speed modfied class. Hebert has found that he can use HB's version of these with the AE steering blocks but it requires a serpent bearing which size I do not recall. On the 13.5 car I use the stock blocks limited with a 1 deg toe spacer to be sure that the driveshafts don't bind. In 13.5 i do not need as much steering throw so this works fine.
About ackerman, at 13.5T chassis you have steering links
more forward at servo saver then at modified class, may I ask why?
At modified they are almost in line.
They are mounted the same at the bellcrank but the Losi blocks have only one link option which is in a different location than on the AE blocks.
Black swaybar at front, why this one or when use it?
I still drive silver at front and black at rear, I'm looking for info
when try change swaybars ..
About shocks, they are attached to lower hole on towers, may I ask why?
Or when/why you change kit setup position to this one? What this gives to you?
I cheated on the above two by copying Juho's setup without really doing a back to back test. But we have some problems with traction rolling and going inside on the tower and softer bars improves this.
About spring, when my rear want spin out I change sliver to green and now
is much better, maybe I do something wrong or lost something ...
BTW there is my last setup: http://www.rc-setups.com/setups/250/edit/
I think the best one that I ever have
I looked at this and think it is pretty good! Most of the tracks we race on are smooth and high traction. It seems like you might be racing on lower grip and/or bumpy tracks.
In the end, a lot of making the car go fast is in the preparation. The shocks have to be smooth, the diff has to be in good shape, spool tight, suspension free from binds (but not too free), tweak set correctly, etc. it the car is prepped well, most setups will get around the track pretty well.
Can you help?
Regards!
m.
ps: sorry for my English
is another then asso one. What is this and what give to you?
The steering blocks on the modified car are Losi. In conjunction witht these we use the Losi dual joint driveshafts. The stock driveshafts can someties bind at full travel and these allow the full travel and ultimately more steering for higher speed modfied class. Hebert has found that he can use HB's version of these with the AE steering blocks but it requires a serpent bearing which size I do not recall. On the 13.5 car I use the stock blocks limited with a 1 deg toe spacer to be sure that the driveshafts don't bind. In 13.5 i do not need as much steering throw so this works fine.
About ackerman, at 13.5T chassis you have steering links
more forward at servo saver then at modified class, may I ask why?
At modified they are almost in line.
They are mounted the same at the bellcrank but the Losi blocks have only one link option which is in a different location than on the AE blocks.
Black swaybar at front, why this one or when use it?
I still drive silver at front and black at rear, I'm looking for info
when try change swaybars ..
About shocks, they are attached to lower hole on towers, may I ask why?
Or when/why you change kit setup position to this one? What this gives to you?
I cheated on the above two by copying Juho's setup without really doing a back to back test. But we have some problems with traction rolling and going inside on the tower and softer bars improves this.
About spring, when my rear want spin out I change sliver to green and now
is much better, maybe I do something wrong or lost something ...
BTW there is my last setup: http://www.rc-setups.com/setups/250/edit/
I think the best one that I ever have
I looked at this and think it is pretty good! Most of the tracks we race on are smooth and high traction. It seems like you might be racing on lower grip and/or bumpy tracks.
In the end, a lot of making the car go fast is in the preparation. The shocks have to be smooth, the diff has to be in good shape, spool tight, suspension free from binds (but not too free), tweak set correctly, etc. it the car is prepped well, most setups will get around the track pretty well.
Can you help?
Regards!
m.
ps: sorry for my English
12-17-2009, 09:56 AM
shock cap problems
i got my TC5R the other day and i save the shocks for last to build. so last night i went to finish them up but im running into a problem where the caps dont thread on all the way. i have the foam car and those cap thread down all the way. these ones maybe only half way. any ideas?
12-17-2009, 12:03 PM
......
12-17-2009, 12:10 PM
So I guess the are two new parts coming out for the TC5. I hope we haven't designed the same part! Our part is a new engine mount that will move the motor closer to center. It is not the whole bulkhead like seen from elsewhere. It will be a simple and inexpensive way to achieve the same result.
I look forward to seeing what you have come up with.
I look forward to seeing what you have come up with.
Question and concern about the tc5r I just bought.
I went to put together the shocks and the caps don't screw on all the way. So I went and bought new caps with the rebuild kit and those don't screw on all the way. I was thinking that is was a shock body issue, but my brother took the caps off his tc5r and they worked great.
I am not running the blue diaphrams in the shocks so that is not the issue.
Has anyone else had this problem? I called AE and they were going to send me new caps and I was going to send the ones that came with the car and the set I bought extra.
Does anyone know how long it takes for AE to send replacemant parts? I am really trying to get my car ready for this weekend.
Thanks,
Paul
I went to put together the shocks and the caps don't screw on all the way. So I went and bought new caps with the rebuild kit and those don't screw on all the way. I was thinking that is was a shock body issue, but my brother took the caps off his tc5r and they worked great.
I am not running the blue diaphrams in the shocks so that is not the issue.
Has anyone else had this problem? I called AE and they were going to send me new caps and I was going to send the ones that came with the car and the set I bought extra.
Does anyone know how long it takes for AE to send replacemant parts? I am really trying to get my car ready for this weekend.
Thanks,
Paul
i got my TC5R the other day and i save the shocks for last to build. so last night i went to finish them up but im running into a problem where the caps dont thread on all the way. i have the foam car and those cap thread down all the way. these ones maybe only half way. any ideas?
12-17-2009, 12:11 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Thank you Rick for replay.
About Herbert modification, I think this is this part:
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?partNo=67699&lang=en
If I remember from my old cyclone-S, for front bearing was about 5x10,
so we need this bearing: 5x10 x3mm
Hm, I think, AE should do some mods for tc5 as "new option kit" and/or release
new chassis Shorter way -> new option kit
Regards and again thanks for help!
M.
About Herbert modification, I think this is this part:
http://www.hbeurope.com/piw.php?partNo=67699&lang=en
If I remember from my old cyclone-S, for front bearing was about 5x10,
so we need this bearing: 5x10 x3mm
Hm, I think, AE should do some mods for tc5 as "new option kit" and/or release
new chassis
Shorter way -> new option kit Regards and again thanks for help!
M.
12-17-2009, 12:32 PM
i like the idea of a option kit
12-17-2009, 07:18 PM
Tech Adept
I got my bulk heads from leg iron (greig) today and quickly installed them to check clearance with my spur. 87t 48p fit with about 1.5mm of clearance between the chassis plate and spur gear. The Robinson Racing super machined gear seemed to have a bit more clearance than the stock 87t Kimbrough gear. Just gotta figure out how to clearance the chassis plate to fit the motor without cutting right through it. The upper plate looks easy enough to modify.
I've got a PPD billet lipo weight in the battery tray with a Diggity lipo tray and am running flipped belts. The front belt passes really close to the lipo tray because it's sitting on top of the PPD billet weight. Hopefully with the motor moved in 5mm I'll be able to get rid of the chassis weight plate. If not I'll just have to grind down the corner of the Diggity tray.
I've got a PPD billet lipo weight in the battery tray with a Diggity lipo tray and am running flipped belts. The front belt passes really close to the lipo tray because it's sitting on top of the PPD billet weight. Hopefully with the motor moved in 5mm I'll be able to get rid of the chassis weight plate. If not I'll just have to grind down the corner of the Diggity tray.
12-17-2009, 10:07 PM
Tech Adept
Hi
What are the size of the holes of the 1,2,3 pistons that come with the TC5?
What are the size of the holes of the 1,2,3 pistons that come with the TC5?
12-18-2009, 03:49 AM
Try the new titanium racing f1 stealth cvds they are as good as the losi lcs's and very light weight they have a lot of steering throw with no binding.
12-18-2009, 10:20 AM
inline motor mount
blah.. i guess they were never made. 
