Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Im using Yokomo 3/32 diff balls and diff thrust springs. Way cheaper
than AE's. Even with the original diff balls, I cant fully tighten it. it's smooth
now and not too loose but really prefer a little more tight. Ill try to sand
the area where the diff outdrives meet to give it more space to tighten.

twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

I have had my TC5's for a while now and cant figure out why they pull to the left when I accelarate. they go perfectly straight when I coast and evrything is tight and smooth. I checked the chassis for tweek and evrything else I can think of.
I use a spool in the front of both my cars. I did switch the belts around to make it easier to get my pinion out though. Can anyone help?

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

make sure you don't have a broken bone blade

Ozzie

iTrader: (23)

Is there an easy way to tell the difference between the standard parts and hard parts? I have gotten mine mixed up and now can't seem to tell the difference.

Thanks

pakk

iTrader: (80)

I wouldn't call it an easy way, but they are different shades of black. Grab a known hard arm and a known soft arm. Put them next to each other in good light and you will see the difference.

Ozzie

iTrader: (23)

Thanks

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

Imperfect weight balance?

I've had the car pull when the weight balance became unbalance when the fan was removed.

pinggoy

iTrader: (24)

hard is a litttle shinny...

mine too but i just try to live with it,,,, compensate with steering trim...

defcone

iTrader: (15)

The part where the pin goes into the dogbone, ther sides have worn down and have movement. I think that's where's causing the pulling to one side under acceleration on mine. Maybe give your's a check.

Redwood

Check your front droop is the same left to right first. If they are slightly out then the car will pull under acceleration but not during coasting.

Regards

Neal

twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

That could be a possibility, I don't have droop blocks so I use my ride height tool to check it. They do seem a little different, I will have to figure out a way to make my own blocks for now just started a new job and haven't gotten paid yet. Thanks

twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

Also the last race I wen't to I changed my shocks and the problem got worse, I never checked to see if they were all the same length. I bought them off e-bay rebuilt them and used em and never checked each one. The droop was a little off by a 1mm or 2 I will have to wait till I get home later to drive it.

Redwood

By the sounds of it, it is probably droop. The TC5 comes with a droop gauge, but no blocks. I use a book, and sit the chassis on the right number of pages to match the droop gauge. Very primitive solution but it works.

While you are at it, unscrew all the bulkhead and topdeck screws, dont remove them, just loosen them. Then re-tighten them, that should remove the owrst of the chassis tweak if there is any, which can cause your car to not drive straight.

Regards

Neal

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

I don't use the droop gauge either. I use a down travel measurement. I set my ride height and then set the down travel.

Let's say I have a 5mm ride height and want 2mm of down travel. I use two ride height gauges and block the chassis up at 7mm (5mm+2mm). Now I adjust the droop screws until the tires "just" touch the set up board.

Redwood

I had the chance to take a look at the fastest TC5 in my area at the weekend and noticed that the front and rear bulkheads were cut, to reduce front to rear stiffness.

After looking at the rear bulkhead designs of all the recently released chassis, it seems that a split rear bulkhead is the way to go. Look at the Mi4, Photon or T3 read bulkheads, all separate the rear diff holding bulkhead from the motor holding part.

So I am considering removing the upper bulkhead material from just behind the motor and the lower material from near the servo.

Has anyone else tried these mods? What effect if any did it have on the handling of the car, for carpet rubber or tarmac rubber.

Thanks

Neal