Verndog

iTrader: (16)

No problem...weights went out today.

You'll love how LiPo friendly the TC5 is compared to some TC's where even getting a 3600 can be a challange. The TC5 can even use the stock battery strap with Lipo and the weights you have...with zero chance of ever coming out when properly mounted.

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

If you are using a spool they are going to take a beating and you will have to replace them periodically.

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

ohh i see! I'm geussin the wheele doesn't slip or slow down like a diff does.

it has a front spool and that's where the problem is at!!! also i see the outdrive is starting to split.

i know this car is far "racers" so aluminun and splastic is best. but i wish i could buy some steel outdrives and have the cv shafts fit with NO "blade"

do you like ae's idea? all top tc's use this also. the first time i seen "blades" was i think a 8th scale truggy

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

i had the TC5 and a cyclone..and now a 416. all use similar ideas. i think for racers its the best solution. esp. since the blades are cheaper. the first version of the cyclone spool didnt use blades..and it just dug into the aluminum. then you had to replace your $30 spool every 2-3 races.

AE uses plastic blades so that when they wear out, you can purchase additional blades at $5-6 (or whatever the cost is, but its very cheap) per package and replace that, instead of replacing the spool. so in my opinion, YES i like AE's idea better.

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

no one could've explain better!!!! makes plenty of sence! and yeah cheaper also.
your tamiya has the same style blades?

Mike Blackstock

iTrader: (1)

sorry for no pics my camera is not working.. so give me a couple of more days to get this thing figured out and will have pics of all my cars

yodace

iTrader: (8)

what are u guys normally gearing a 13.5?

Also wants the final drive for TC5?

hanzo3

iTrader: (55)

Anyone use an ACE 1313 servo for their TC5? Would this be a good option or is it more for truggies?

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

FD in TC5 is 2.0.

13.5 4.4-4.9 FRD

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Vernogs above post is right. My club track is about 80x120ft (I think) and I gear at 4.57 depending on layout using 64 pitch 96t spur and 42t pinion.

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

this car handles like crap for me doesn't wana turn. spins out all the time strips spur gears just doesn't seem correct.

its the heat that's doing something to my car.
THEN i run at night !!! everything works good it grips almost like its riding on rails. it hangs in the turn very stable and always wants to go striaght and always ready for the turn. I'm running sorex and they rock (at night)

K_Spec_RC

iTrader: (8)

check the screw that connects the motor mount to the bulkhead. If it is loose or missing it will cause some MAJOR gear strippage. As for grip, that could be one of many things. I would suggest going through the car and making sure all of the adjustments (droop, rideheight, pre-load, tweak, ect..) are even. Then if you are still having issues, look for a new setup. Also, in the heat, I would suggest trying some 36r's or even some 32r's.

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

well i think my problem is the screw lol also maybe the tires. i will be making those changing and try making things better. seems to be the second best car I've ever had. and i have alot of cars, so its always in my mind!

i bought the car second hand with this setup and a bunch of after market stuff also all stock parts. ken pepe's rubber tire setup

Front

5mm ride ht

1.5 camber

4* caster

toe 0

hex space 0

wheel base spacer 2mm

steering link 2b

bumpsteer 2mm

spool

cam holder a

tension 8

shock 35 wt AE oil

#2 piston

25% rebound

gold spring

no foam in bladder

shock pos. 2b

camber link 3

no shims

droop 6 on gauge

no roll bar

REAR
5mm ride ht

1.5 camber

0* toe hub

3* total toe

1mm wheel base spacer

diff-set a bit loose

cam holder a

2 tension

shock 35 wt oil

#2 piston

25% rebound

no foam in bladder

silver spring

shock pos. 3b

camberlink 3a

1mm spacer on outer ball

fwd arm mount 2a

1.5 fwd shims

rwd mount 1a

4.5 rwd mount shim

3 5 droop on gauge

no roll bar

chassis itf top plate itf w/ 4 orings on
layshaft (rear) area screws

mazda 6 body but will be changing soon

hanzo3

iTrader: (55)

What FDR are you guys running for a 60x40 track and 13.5?

markg

Hey Guys. Need some advice. Ran the TC5R at the club race3s for the first time Saturday night. All seemed well, except for one problem. The rear end of the car was so loose it was almost undrivable. Whenever I pulled the trigger coming out of a corner the rear end would spin out. I noticed after every run the front diff, built as a spool is totally loose. I tightened it down completely but it would loosen almost immediately in the run. I think this is why the rear end was spinning out, since the front is slipping and the rear is driving. Anyway, any one else had trouble with the diff/spool loosening up, and what did you do to prevent it?

Any other ideas on getting the rear end to stay put? My next thought was to increase the front droop, to allow more transfer to the rear on power. Thoughts??

Take care, and thank for input.