wtcc's TT-02 KR
 

How should I start...
Right in time for the upcoming indoor season, my joy for RC is returning strong. The fever got real strong when AE announced the TC7.2. I also checked what kind of racing series will be held here in south Germany. And so one evening I discovered the RCK-Kleinserie. RC-Kleinkram is one of the biggest RC shops in Germany and this year it starts a new series with four classes. Two of these are GT with the proven TT-02 as required chassis. The GT2-class consist of full box stock Porsche cars while the GT-Sport is the open TT-02 class for the TT-02 R and S variants, including all tuning parts.

The rules for GT-Sport are made for me :lol: No minimum weight, 17.5t Ruddog motor, 5.0 gearing, blinky esc, free rubber tire choice, body must be scale GT like PF Ford GT or Tamiya GT bodies with at least real looking color scheme.

At least two races will be held in my region, not far away...
That was the point when my brain started planning the total-TT-02-RC-war-wtcc-style. :deathstar

So I looked in my hobby room what I have left over from my RC career and found a lot spares from my AE TCs, my Xray T4 and spares from the FF03. I took over one half the kitchen island table (my wife :flaming: ) and started checking what is possible. And if you like the TT-02 chassis or not, it is capable to become everything you want with compareable little effort. The more I work and drive with this car, the more I love it.

And this is how the story starts. There will be more posts coming today, as the project is already in an advanced stage ;)

Here is the link to the racing series:
RCK-KleinSerie ? You race, we care!

I'm watching this thread with baited breath. :-)

I just promise to fullfill my own visions :sweat:


This was my starting point:

https://abload.de/img/d1023573-437b-4915-8fhis5.jpeg

Normal TT-02 with ball bearings, aluminium shaft and oil filled shocks. Of course I leave off not needed parts like the rear bumper or the fan-motor-cover. This 2 year old chassis already won a race in the Tamiya Euro Cup and was a DTM- and a Super GT-car before.

What's the white stuff under the steering gear?

Oh, good you mention it :blush:
The chassis was a rallye car once, too.
This white part belongs to a lexan rain cover. I ran it in my Subaru WRX configuration to keep out dust and water. That is another German engineering, but not by me :lol:

You're making me want to make a thread about my FF03..

My next step was to think how to implement a full adjustable suspension. Additionally I wanted to get rid of all the plastic covers. I know they are perfect to keep dust and dirt away from all the gears, but I find them quite ugly. All these parts flew off the car.

Of course this caused more problems at first. The covers also hold the driveshaft and all bearings in place. I remembered a old conversion I did with the TC6 to make it fit Pro10 bodies. I replaced the upper bearing cap with a shimmed cfk plate. This time the small plate should be multifunctional with including the camber link and the shocktower mount. So I would need 4 small plates for the shocktower, camber link and to hold the diffbearings in place and two more plates for the driveshaft bearings.

https://abload.de/img/87194d4c-bd67-4e26-8ujdk7.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/a6860990-b1b3-4f57-bq5dt9.jpeg

https://abload.de/img/845b18e5-ea5f-4983-b6be6s.jpeg

Here you see the car with TC6.2 shocktower. They were hold by old AE servomounts, which I shortened for the "lightest TC car" project, once. The hole distance was so small, that it was really tight to fit without rubbing the differential. In between I installed the TRF416 suspension from my FF03. It nearly fits, just the arm pins needed to be shortenend by 1mm. This made me very happy.

Up to now I wanted to use mostly parts from my old cars to keep the costs low. Because tuning a TT-02 seems so ridiculous... :eek: I am still not sure if I am a little crazy/stupid doing this. I had to think about how judgemental I thought about people who bought tuning parts for several hundred dollar for this chassis instead of buying a pro rc car...

Well up to now everything went together quite nice. My conversion reached the level of a TT-02S and I haven't spent a dollar, yet. Still missing though were antirollbars and a way to adjust droop. The both problems were solved with more small cfk-plates.

https://abload.de/img/6232f98c-57ce-42b0-8rhfgz.jpeg

The design and production takes its time. Until this stage I had thought, drawed and dremeled for 4 days. And everything worked :eek: Then my attitude changed: Why going through all this "hassle" and then only having the second best components with this handmade look... Thank you very much, brain! :tire:

Do it! ;)

Uh. Ok.

https://www.rctech.net/forum/electri...s-cheaply.html

So, on the subject of your car. Hard chassis pans are cheap. Like $20, cheap. And white looks ~gooood~.

Another great project from WTCC :D Will you also implement adjustable rear toe? :D

In between some "normal" tuning parts arrived:

https://abload.de/img/f5215dbb-285c-47a6-a4oiix.jpeg

The Yeah Racing motor mount and the Tamiya high speed gear set are very useful for the right gearing. Also the Ruddog 17.5t motor arrived. The combination of these components with a 80 theeth 64dp spur gear and a 41 theeth pinion works like charm. I accidently discovered that the motor cooling cut out at the front end perfectly avoids the tub plastic for the rear drive shaft bearing. This way it would be possible to use a 40 theeth, maybe even a 39 theeth pinion on a 80 theeth spur. Awesome! :D

With the motor so far inside I will try to use a 6000mAh shorty lipo and should reach the optimal r/l balance.

Really nice, Kev' ! This is what we call true rc hobby :nod:
Instead of the sintered nylon ("versatile plastic" = strong and flexible), did you already try the "professional plastic" which is from another printing process developped by HP? Just curious if you have already compared both and what are your thoughts :)

Regards,
G-rem

Don't know if your CAD software allows filet (in French, it is "congé de face", maybe you can try to translate it to German for better understanding), but if it does, you can draw a 0.5mm filet so that you have a nice rounded angle between faces :)

G-rem forgot the best part about fillet, they make the part sexier :D:D CURVES

Last update for today:

Part of trying to get the best performance out of the car was not only to use some parts that "could do it", but use the best. Well, and I ordered a new high performance touring car chassis with the TC7.2, so my Xray T4 is actually a roller. As result of this thinking, the TRF416 suspension went back onto my FF03. I also bought a new TT-02 tub chassis for 5,49€ (my old one was tweaked). It got the full T4 suspension with arb, hard plastic hubs and graphite arms. At this point I must admit to be very happy that Tamiya and Xray agreed on the same sizes for hinge pins and axles. It was pure plug and play. After a little pondering I decided to buy the TT-02 Type-S steel suspension mount set (54634). This should be more durable in a chrash and allows to drive (inboard) toe at the rear. Unfortunately Tamiya got the measurement a little wrong: The whole pin setup has more slop than I hoped it would have...

https://abload.de/img/7ecf3165-d926-4f29-9i5iow.jpeg

And that is the current status of this project. What is left of the TT-02 from the beginning? The tub chassis, the drive shaft, differentials bearings and servo mounts :p
Maybe some of you recognized these strange "screws" standing out of the tub chassis near the differentials. I want to try something else here. We call it "Stehbolzen" in Germany. The online translation says stud, stay bolt or stud bolt. The idea is to conserve the thread in the tub chassis by using a M3x16mm set screw and a nut screw to tighten (like you would with an aluminium engine block).

Are those the ulp shock?

No, SLPs.
Don't tease me :lol:

Yup, they're just called "Studs" in the English world. you're making a good choice, especially with that soft tub. Are you using a thread forming tap yet? I might even consider bonding the studs into the chassis.

Several of the cars I've built recently use studs to screw the ball ends on to. Though, personally, I'd spec longer studs than the car manufacturers are having me use.

No, I don't. I just twist the studs in and that is it. I think with metric thread studs it make sense. Before I used the original Tamiya kit screws. And they work exceptional well in this plastic material. I never overtightened or damaged a thread. It is also experience. After nearly ten years into this hobby I developed a sense for the right amount of torque for plastic, aluminium and steel.

I'd only very, very, rarely strip a screw. And never on the first use of a hole. Thread formed (i'm being specific here, because thread cutting is a no-no here.) holes have this lovely solid "thunk" of sorts, when you bottom out the fastener. The rise in torque from "spinning threads" to "seated parts" is really nice to feel.

If you were on this side of the any ocean, I'd send you one.

Don't want to clutter wtcc's thread too much but I just had some wheels printed in professional plastic from shapeways. Strength appears to be pretty good, better than I anticipated. Stiffness is somewhere between hpi nylon rims and more rigid Tamiya abs (??) wheels for a rough comparison. Impact strength is supposedly very good but I havent used the wheels yet or comment on that. Surface texture is very uniform and has a SLS printed or cast appearance. I plan on doing the next batch in versatile plastic and would be happy to post up a comparison.

wtcc keep up the good work. I've already got some new ideas. Just need to sneak in some more design time.

The 1.5mm hex wrench is easier to break than a 2mm wrench, especially if you are forcing threads into the material for the first time. I would tap the holes, but leave a little bit untapped to act as a "lock nut". If you wanted to get fancy you could do threaded inserts, and use flathead screws in your carbon fiber pieces to help keep them aligned with the bulkhead.

Lol I really have to focus to tell the difference in photos they look very similar:D

This is both awesome, and silly. Are you sure you're german? I'm enjoying watching the build. :-)

I am a Japanese caught in the body of a German :lol:

Where do you order your carbon parts? :)

I'm confused by this thread. It's interesting, but I feel something has been lost along the way. Why does this GT-Sport class enforce a TT02 chassis if you're allowed to replace pretty much everything? Also I thought you started off trying to make this a cheap build by reusing parts but now you're custom fabricating significant portions.

Don't get me wrong, it's a good read, I'm just lost on what the spirit of the class is.

Philosophical question: What make a TT02 a TT02? I mean, you have removed over 50% of original parts... Will it be ok with the rules?

Rules? I thought WTCC was having fun to see what he could do with the platform. Did I miss where he said that he was building to a certain spec?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus

Sh!t is deep yo

Tyger,
There have been a couple of vintage race cars effectively destroyed in accidents in the last year or so. When asked about the implications to the originality of the rebuilt car, the response was basically that if the chassis tag was original, so was the rest of it.

First post, he mentioned there were two classes and he was building for one of them.

Do you remember TA05 M-four? It didn't have many TA05 parts. I think that as long as it uses TT02 tub, it is TT02