Robitronic Avid Touring Car
#301
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
I encountered this problem also only on the front wheel/bearing assembly.
The wheel hex assemble is a soft metal & it tends to spread open at the area where you put the retaining clip. There are 2 ways you can take it apart. Remove the steering hub from the arms & remove the retraining ring. If you have 2 wooden blocks or a vise have the steering hub face downward & have the universals face up towards you. Have another person hold the steering assembly or clamp it on a vise. Now comes the ugly part. Hold the universal as straight as possible & hammer down untill the hex assembly comes out the other side. You can use some Tri-Flow lubricant to help. Sometimes it comes out easily & sometimes it's stubborn as hell! The other way is to dremel the part that has spread open litle by little. I tried both ways & I find it easier to do the first way. If the hex assemble was made out of steel instead of aluminum this will not happen. Hope this helps.
-John
The wheel hex assemble is a soft metal & it tends to spread open at the area where you put the retaining clip. There are 2 ways you can take it apart. Remove the steering hub from the arms & remove the retraining ring. If you have 2 wooden blocks or a vise have the steering hub face downward & have the universals face up towards you. Have another person hold the steering assembly or clamp it on a vise. Now comes the ugly part. Hold the universal as straight as possible & hammer down untill the hex assembly comes out the other side. You can use some Tri-Flow lubricant to help. Sometimes it comes out easily & sometimes it's stubborn as hell! The other way is to dremel the part that has spread open litle by little. I tried both ways & I find it easier to do the first way. If the hex assemble was made out of steel instead of aluminum this will not happen. Hope this helps.
-John
#305
Tech Adept
Don't hesitate to
- Make the front suspension harder (higher oil grade, at least 70 or 80) and harder springs) than out of the box.
- Get the maximum rear camber intake
- Make the steering operation to be as smooth as possible, not too sensitive by any meaning necessary.
- Front width at least 2mm wider than the rear.
- Maximum wheelbase available.
- Harder front sway bar 1.6 or 1.8mm.
- Use all your radio functions to make it easier to drive, steering servo speed, not too much D/R, steering Expo, etc).
Avid is difficult to master on carpet. If someone else already had some good results on this surface, please let us how to deal with !
Hope you will do well. Anyway, please tell us how things did.
Cheers.
Slide
- Make the front suspension harder (higher oil grade, at least 70 or 80) and harder springs) than out of the box.
- Get the maximum rear camber intake
- Make the steering operation to be as smooth as possible, not too sensitive by any meaning necessary.
- Front width at least 2mm wider than the rear.
- Maximum wheelbase available.
- Harder front sway bar 1.6 or 1.8mm.
- Use all your radio functions to make it easier to drive, steering servo speed, not too much D/R, steering Expo, etc).
Avid is difficult to master on carpet. If someone else already had some good results on this surface, please let us how to deal with !
Hope you will do well. Anyway, please tell us how things did.
Cheers.
Slide
#306
I have run the Avid for a few times on carpet.
My setup was box stock, just used a front diff instead of the one way because we have rather low traction. I raced in 540 class and the rear was a bit loose, but OK. The car was quite quick and with a bit of getting used to I was back to my usual performance in my other cars (Yok SD-SSG, TA05R, Kawada Sigma2). Next season will get back to it and fine tune it.
My setup was box stock, just used a front diff instead of the one way because we have rather low traction. I raced in 540 class and the rear was a bit loose, but OK. The car was quite quick and with a bit of getting used to I was back to my usual performance in my other cars (Yok SD-SSG, TA05R, Kawada Sigma2). Next season will get back to it and fine tune it.
#307
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Slideaway,
thanks for the info on my problem with the front end, just added tamiya super heavy springs left the same oil (35w) fixed the problem just some more fine tuning and should be a rocket.
Has any one had problems with the front drive shafts bending? they seem to be very soft.
Steven.
thanks for the info on my problem with the front end, just added tamiya super heavy springs left the same oil (35w) fixed the problem just some more fine tuning and should be a rocket.
Has any one had problems with the front drive shafts bending? they seem to be very soft.
Steven.
#313
#314
Tech Adept
Hi there,
If you have the sliver dogbones, yes, they are not hard enough.
Robitronic released the black ones, same part number.
At that time (at least, it was like this in France), Robitronic replaced them free of charge. Check out with your usual dealer.
The red anodisation will be kept for the Avid'09. Release date would arrived in the very middle of the year. Patience, it will not be long ;-)
Cheers
Slide
If you have the sliver dogbones, yes, they are not hard enough.
Robitronic released the black ones, same part number.
At that time (at least, it was like this in France), Robitronic replaced them free of charge. Check out with your usual dealer.
The red anodisation will be kept for the Avid'09. Release date would arrived in the very middle of the year. Patience, it will not be long ;-)
Cheers
Slide
#315
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (101)
Thanks Slideaway, is the new car going to be strictly a carpet car?
Also I'm assuming that chassis flex is an issue with the current car.
If this is correct, is this something I need to be concerned about racing asphalt?
Should I have a problem racing asphalt with the new car? Thanks again...
Also I'm assuming that chassis flex is an issue with the current car.
If this is correct, is this something I need to be concerned about racing asphalt?
Should I have a problem racing asphalt with the new car? Thanks again...