Yokomo MR-4 TC Thread
#1607
Tech Initiate
I run the world's edition. I've been using the stock recommendations of the 2-hole pistons. Many people advise me to use the 3-hole (each hole being smaller than that of the 2-hole) pistons instead, saying that the chassis will roll less and 'less lazy' around the corners. I fully understand the logic.
Has anyone used the 3-hole pistons in mr4tc and find that there is really so much a difference? I want to change to the 3-hole pistons but thinking that if the effect is not much different, it ain't worth the the trouble (huge work, and oily too).
Has anyone used the 3-hole pistons in mr4tc and find that there is really so much a difference? I want to change to the 3-hole pistons but thinking that if the effect is not much different, it ain't worth the the trouble (huge work, and oily too).
#1608
Does anybody have a digram of the yokomo transponder mount! I'm making my out of fiberglass and need to know the dimentions! Thanks in advance!
#1609
mandy, do you run on carpet? If so, definately use the 3 hole pistons. You will need to lighten the oil a bit.
I don't really know for ashfault.
Speedo
I don't really know for ashfault.
Speedo
#1610
Tech Initiate
Hello Speedo. I run on asphault. Though I don't run on carpets, why is it beneficial to use the 3-hole pistons on carpets? I just want to learn and broaden my understanding.
I run mod and I'm not too happy with my set up. Just want to fine tune a little bit. I use the tires used by the fastest guys on the track. So tires are not a suspect.
My problem is that my mr4tc pushes a bit on entering the corner and then the rear loses traction on exiting a corner. I can compensate this loss of rear traction on exiting by using a very very light throttle finger. Of course I lose a lot of lap time just to mask this problem. What are the possible problems with my sedan?
I run mod and I'm not too happy with my set up. Just want to fine tune a little bit. I use the tires used by the fastest guys on the track. So tires are not a suspect.
My problem is that my mr4tc pushes a bit on entering the corner and then the rear loses traction on exiting a corner. I can compensate this loss of rear traction on exiting by using a very very light throttle finger. Of course I lose a lot of lap time just to mask this problem. What are the possible problems with my sedan?
#1611
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Is the general consensus that running the old rear "A" arms on the Special is better than the "A" arms included with the kit. I have been running the stock rear "A" arms, but since I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild, I was wondering if I should give it a try.
Also, it has been mentioned in the past... Which MIP front CVD's are appropriate for the Special. I've got another slightly bent dogbone on the front.
BTW, I race stock on a high grip asphalt surface. I'm running the front and center shaft oneways with yellow springs front and rear, front swaybar, Sorex 28r tires.
Also, it has been mentioned in the past... Which MIP front CVD's are appropriate for the Special. I've got another slightly bent dogbone on the front.
BTW, I race stock on a high grip asphalt surface. I'm running the front and center shaft oneways with yellow springs front and rear, front swaybar, Sorex 28r tires.
#1612
Geez it's hard to find a free site to host pics, anyone know of one?
Photopoint and Photoloft have closed, pics on Yahoo! tend to disappear soon after posting...
Photopoint and Photoloft have closed, pics on Yahoo! tend to disappear soon after posting...
#1613
Beautiful paint job! I especially like the front wheel arches
I see Hobby Direct has started to stock yokomo stuff...Are they carrying the special?
Speedo
I see Hobby Direct has started to stock yokomo stuff...Are they carrying the special?
Speedo
#1614
Tech Adept
2002 World's
keep everyone up on the world's
5 rounds of Qual in 12th scale complete
Massami
Splashett
Adachi
Tosolini
Top 4
3 Yokomo's outstanding
5 rounds of Qual in 12th scale complete
Massami
Splashett
Adachi
Tosolini
Top 4
3 Yokomo's outstanding
#1615
mandy, about the #3 pistons on carpet. I believe they work better because it allows you to run lighter oil, so the car just seems more free to me. That's just how it felt to me.
Speedo
Speedo
#1616
Ha ha, Josh.
I hate cutting wheel arches, I hacked at these to try and get my 2mm offset foam wheels and tyres to fit but gave up in the end, after ruining the front arch. The way they were before was ideal but rubbed severely on Foam, fine for rubber.
White paints good enough for Lemieux so it'll do for me, high visibility you know!
Nothing a few stickers can't jazz up(and add speed to)
Yup, H.D are supporting the Yokomo brand now(as well as Assoc, Losi, Academy, Tamiya), I didn't see any kits or parts at the race meeting at the weekend so I assume they have an order coming soon. Doesn't affect me as my support is locally based, it's good for all the new Yokomo drivers I did see, most from Auckland.
I hate cutting wheel arches, I hacked at these to try and get my 2mm offset foam wheels and tyres to fit but gave up in the end, after ruining the front arch. The way they were before was ideal but rubbed severely on Foam, fine for rubber.
White paints good enough for Lemieux so it'll do for me, high visibility you know!
Nothing a few stickers can't jazz up(and add speed to)
Yup, H.D are supporting the Yokomo brand now(as well as Assoc, Losi, Academy, Tamiya), I didn't see any kits or parts at the race meeting at the weekend so I assume they have an order coming soon. Doesn't affect me as my support is locally based, it's good for all the new Yokomo drivers I did see, most from Auckland.
#1617
Yeah, you must have heard of my formula? s = d where s = speed and d = decals
Do you plan on trying the tosolini camber mods?
Do you plan on trying the tosolini camber mods?
#1619
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Geppetto
Here are the MIP CVDs refs :
MIP1388 MR4TC FRT ALUM CVD KIT
MIP1339 MR4TC RR ALUM CVD KIT
MIP1340 MR4TC FRT ALUM CVD BONE
MIP1341 MR4TC RR ALUM CVD BONE
MIP1471 MR4TC FRT SHINY CVD KIT
MIP1472 MR4TC RR SHINY CVD KIT
MIP1475 MR4TC FRT SHINY CVD BONES
MIP1476 MR4TC RR SHINY CVD BONES
I use both, Alum for racing and Shiny for training as they really last much longer.
I read that a lot of MR4 TC Spec prefer to run the older arms on the car as it feels more consistent. Personally, I tried Spec arms and older arms and made no major differences.
Anyone has an idea about that ?
Here are the MIP CVDs refs :
MIP1388 MR4TC FRT ALUM CVD KIT
MIP1339 MR4TC RR ALUM CVD KIT
MIP1340 MR4TC FRT ALUM CVD BONE
MIP1341 MR4TC RR ALUM CVD BONE
MIP1471 MR4TC FRT SHINY CVD KIT
MIP1472 MR4TC RR SHINY CVD KIT
MIP1475 MR4TC FRT SHINY CVD BONES
MIP1476 MR4TC RR SHINY CVD BONES
I use both, Alum for racing and Shiny for training as they really last much longer.
I read that a lot of MR4 TC Spec prefer to run the older arms on the car as it feels more consistent. Personally, I tried Spec arms and older arms and made no major differences.
Anyone has an idea about that ?
#1620
Running the special rear arms is like running the graphite worlds rear arms.
I have tried them and there is no big difference, though they are a bit of a pain with some wheels.
I use the MIP shiny CVD's in the front because A) they are CVD's are therefore better than the UJ's that yokomo supplies and B) the shiny ones are very durable.
I kept the yokomo aluminum shafts on the back because the wheels aren't turning back there so there is no downside to UJ's, they are also lighter and I have never bent one in the back. Even when I had MIP shiny ones on the back, acceleration was still decent.
The only thing I don't like about the MIP's is that the axels are .02 of a mm to small in diameter. This leads to more play in the wheel than when using the yokomo ones.
Speedo
I have tried them and there is no big difference, though they are a bit of a pain with some wheels.
I use the MIP shiny CVD's in the front because A) they are CVD's are therefore better than the UJ's that yokomo supplies and B) the shiny ones are very durable.
I kept the yokomo aluminum shafts on the back because the wheels aren't turning back there so there is no downside to UJ's, they are also lighter and I have never bent one in the back. Even when I had MIP shiny ones on the back, acceleration was still decent.
The only thing I don't like about the MIP's is that the axels are .02 of a mm to small in diameter. This leads to more play in the wheel than when using the yokomo ones.
Speedo