jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Purchased it Thursday, and verified it with a team driver. I'm good to go.

b121774

iTrader: (90)

Perfect! Ordered. thanks

John Q

iTrader: (5)

Been running the 4.0 the last couple of weekends with good results with the stock setup on dirt laydown. I was wondering if its worth getting the brass hinge pin mount and the brass plate for the rear? How will this change the handling of 4.0 with theses parts ?

Thanks

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Stock or mod? In stock I didn't like how much overall traction it gave on high bite clay (it was a ton). I ended up going with a 26gram weight plate under the lipo to lock in the rear, but not to the point that it was with the brass hinge pin brace, but now that I am about to add in the SR diff and drive shafts I will probably put it back in cause the car will be way under weight, and I will reintroduce mid corner traction breaks at the apex of 180 style turns and long bumpy sweepers. IF running mod, it's pretty much a must have to remove the possibility of completely losing rear grip if you get out of shape off a jump, or get out of the race line and into the dusty stuff.

jonbrown

Just built up my 22 4.0 and have noticed that when using the lay-down transmission and short battery brace, that the battery (Vampire Racing 4600mah shorty) will physically not slide into space between the waterfall and retainer screwed to the chassis.

The only way I can get it in is to loosen the two screws on the retaining brace, insert battery and then tighten everything back up.


Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem or am I missing something?



Other than that well impressed with the build, only time will tell how well the plastics wear with use.




On a side note, I raced it for the first time in the East of England regional championship today, but was a little disappointed that on the third race of the day the head of the diff screw snapped clean off!! The track was grass, so not exactly high bite, so a little surprised in that.

Otherwise all happy with my purchase, the 22 4.0 seems much more nimble compared to my 22 2.0 and doesn't seem to lack any forwards drive, despite the laydown gearbox and three gear transmission.

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

Slide battery from left side of car into position first. Keep the battery elevated from chassis. Once in position, place front portion of battery into position first. Then push down on rear portion of battery and it should snap into place. Had the same problem until someone showed me the trick. Good luck.

Pistol123

I think I'll order a spare just in case.

Hope you enjoyed the Colchester track, i couldn't make it yesterday but it's my local track. It's a great flowing track and the tlr appeared to be really well suited to it at my first race.

jonbrown

Cheers I'll give it a go

Jason B

iTrader: (13)

Could you describe your build/break-in process for the diff? This seems to be happening a lot more than usual, so just trying to get a handle on why for my own education / peace of mind.

John Q

iTrader: (5)

Hey thanks for the info. I'm running Mod. I'm looking for some more mid-corner and exit steering. So from what your saying this should help.. Thanks again.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

What size is your track? and have you tried the other Ackerman plates yet? Give those a go. I am currently running on a smallish high bite track, lots of tight turns. Went to short VLA with the number 1 Ackermann plates, the 3s didn't give me enough mid corner steering.

pekow91

iTrader: (45)

I am looking to get back into 2wd buggy after a few year hiatus and have the TLR 22 in mind. My question for you guys is it worth going for the 4.0 ($329) or save a little cash and go with the 3.0 ($249). Im an average club racer that will be racing on a medium outdoor dirt track. Thanks for any help.

silverbugeye

If you buy the 3.0 you will eventually start looking for laydown options and then decide that you should have just bought the 4.0.

If you do go the 3.0 route and you are racing 17.5, then just get the 3.0SR from Amain for $259.

To me the 4.0 is easier to drive and better balanced. I am also a terrible driver.

jonbrown

Built up as per manual with kit parts, small amount of black grease on the thrust balls.

A dot of clear grease in each hole on diff gear, insert balls and smear of grease on both sides.

Diff spring is compressed with pliers probably four or five times, insert with nut and places on my trinity diff build tool, diff gear placed on top and other diff out drive.

Screwed up until feel it bite, rotate each diff half by hand. Tighten and then rotate each diff half, then fully Tighten and undo quarter turn.

Run in on bench by holding each wheel and running quarter throttle. Checked, then run on track and adjusted accordingly.


It's worked for the past goodness knows how many years and from memory this is the first diff screw I have ever snapped.

gus6464

iTrader: (2)

It's because the diff screw that comes with the car is made of saliva. Use an Associated diff screw and never had to worry about it again.