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TLR 22 4.0

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Old 03-22-2017, 06:19 AM   -   Wikipost
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:45 AM
  #691  
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Does anyone know if the new run of SR diffs are the ones compatible with the 22 4.0 in laydown? I just picked one up yesterday. If not I need to return it.
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Old 06-02-2017, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mourinho
Im not doubting that it has worked out for you and others, but for me there is no way it will work with even length links.

I have already built the car and set the steering and the only way it will work is with horn centered. Ive had it all apart and double checked everything and its built correctly.

I am using the aluminium steering rack and posts so im not sure if that would be causing this?
Your drag link may be a little too long. Regardless, use the sub trim on your transmitter to center it after it's all said and done. If you think something is wrong with your build, post a picture and we'll help.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Does anyone know if the new run of SR diffs are the ones compatible with the 22 4.0 in laydown? I just picked one up yesterday. If not I need to return it.
SR diffs fit the 4.0. First version would bind, but new ones should drop right in. I have the old ones in my car and sanded them a little bit. Have been running them since car was released with no problems
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:17 PM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by Brian L
SR diffs fit the 4.0. First version would bind, but new ones should drop right in. I have the old ones in my car and sanded them a little bit. Have been running them since car was released with no problems
Gotta run the SR bones too, different ball and pin on the outdrive ends.
In case you missed it.
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Does anyone know if the new run of SR diffs are the ones compatible with the 22 4.0 in laydown? I just picked one up yesterday. If not I need to return it.
The revised diffs just came out this week. The complete diff is also new for this week.

If you bought it lately from Horizon, then you are good. If your local hobby shop had it in stock for a few months... then it may bind
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Old 06-02-2017, 12:37 PM
  #696  
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How do you know if you have the revised diff without taking it out of the bag. Some stores will not accept open merchandise.
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jnslprd
As long as you have full steering in both directions and the car tracks straight after sub trimming, it won't matter either way. You are only using part of the servo travel and have to limit it in both directions anyway, with EPA.
Depends on the car, but generally your steering curves will be different left/right from center to full lock if you don't set up your steering correctly. This is most obvious when your EPAs are noticeably different left/right at full travel.

Servos don't travel in a straight line, they arc in a circle left/right, ideally you want that arc to be the same left/right.
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Old 06-02-2017, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tsair
Depends on the car, but generally your steering curves will be different left/right from center to full lock if you don't set up your steering correctly. This is most obvious when your EPAs are noticeably different left/right at full travel.

Servos don't travel in a straight line, they arc in a circle left/right, ideally you want that arc to be the same left/right.
Exactly! That is why i am asking the question, i can set the car up to track perfectly straight and to have equal links etc, but my endpoints are different left to right for full throw, so something is amiss.. that is what got me looking back into the build and questioning why the manual calls for an off centre horn.

I imagine with the off centre horn the endpoints would hypothetically be even left to right for full throw, but i cannot get that to work with equal length links.

Ive tried shortening the draglink to 31 and that is a little better, anything below 31 and it can over extend and lock out.
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:25 PM
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"equal length links."

I assume you are talking about the steering turnbuckles? You use these to set toe, it has nothing to do with centering your steering. Measure them out per the manual and make sure they are the same. Install the horn as close to straight up and down as possible, set trim, and done.
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Old 06-02-2017, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian L
SR diffs fit the 4.0. First version would bind, but new ones should drop right in. I have the old ones in my car and sanded them a little bit. Have been running them since car was released with no problems
What do you sand? Getting ready to pick one up for my SR
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:12 PM
  #701  
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Originally Posted by tsair
Depends on the car, but generally your steering curves will be different left/right from center to full lock if you don't set up your steering correctly. This is most obvious when your EPAs are noticeably different left/right at full travel.

Servos don't travel in a straight line, they arc in a circle left/right, ideally you want that arc to be the same left/right.
Can't imagine anybody feeling a sterring curve difference if the horn is 1 tooth off center but trimmed to go straight. If I lose at the world's at least I will have an excuse
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:18 PM
  #702  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
Exactly! That is why i am asking the question, i can set the car up to track perfectly straight and to have equal links etc, but my endpoints are different left to right for full throw, so something is amiss.. that is what got me looking back into the build and questioning why the manual calls for an off centre horn.

I imagine with the off centre horn the endpoints would hypothetically be even left to right for full throw, but i cannot get that to work with equal length links.

Ive tried shortening the draglink to 31 and that is a little better, anything below 31 and it can over extend and lock out.
I'm going to guess that your servo is either spaced too far forward/back, or you're not using a TLR servo horn. Take some video or pictures, it should be easy to diagnose.

You didn't make a simple mistake like use the wrong Ackermann plate on one side or something, did you? Ballstud spacers are the same, VLA is correct?
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Old 06-02-2017, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jnslprd
Can't imagine anybody feeling a sterring curve difference if the horn is 1 tooth off center but trimmed to go straight.
If you also add: and your steering links are the same length and your drag link is the correct length, then I would agree with you.
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:17 AM
  #704  
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Anyone have a good way to use a fan on the standup? I am running on a low traction outdoor track. And gearing recommendation with a TP actinium V2. I am down to 33/66(dont have a smaller pinion) and I was getting quite hot last race but didnt have a fan.
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Old 06-03-2017, 07:10 AM
  #705  
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This company makes a nice fan mount that works perfect on the stand up tranny:

RC Speed Secrets - Performance Level Parts & Hop-Ups | RC Racing Parts

http://rcspeedsecrets.com/rcss-losi-...tor-fan-mount/

It goes on the screw that goes through the tranny to the motor plate, the 44mm one, works out really nice, they have some other nice products as well.
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