478LikesTLR 22 4.0
03-22-2017, 06:19 AM - Wikipost
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05-17-2017, 02:58 PM
#543
Thirty, verify your change (take off the wing). A front wing should add high speed steering but should not cause such a dramatic difference at normal/lower infield speeds.
05-17-2017, 03:35 PM
#545
Tech Addict
Thirty,
I agree with what NYC is saying. Plus you said it started off good and then got worse.
Did you Diff loosen up the more you ran??
Just something to look at.
Good luck
I agree with what NYC is saying. Plus you said it started off good and then got worse.
Did you Diff loosen up the more you ran??
Just something to look at.
Good luck
05-17-2017, 05:22 PM
#546
I'd like to see what you've come up with as well, I am having a mid corner issue where the car attempts to slide out, but doesn't, gets very close and i can feel it breaking traction, just doesn't quite get there. This is on a small indoor high bite clay track with a ton of tight turns where we use sauced clay primes. I'm not running kit springs, running AE grey front (or Kyosho Gold), Yokomo green rear.
05-18-2017, 02:47 AM
#548
i run a 22 3.0 with a TLR laydown. I run a front wing and front 4wd wide. In order to play around with balanced traction, I only mess around with the front tires and the way I sauce them. I want to have maximum rear traction , mind you, so rear tires are sauced full before every qualifier/main.
Front tires are a bit different. Depending on where the traction is, I can switch back to 2wd wide fronts of the traction has a really good balance front to rear. That doesn't necessarily mean that a 2wd front with full sauce is my preferred (for my driving style). Then comes the saucing part. If the traction is to the point where my car is getting twitchy, I will sauce just the inside of the front tires. 2wd front will get full sauce, always.
My go-to setup is
Front wing (in front of tower)
4wd front wide tires
1/2 sauce front, full sauce rear
-1° or 0° Front camber with 0° toe
-2° Rear camber
It's a balanced car, grip wise. Obviously as the race goes on I will lose a bit of traction, but I easily compensate it with my driving.
Also remember that driver input is more important than the setup. Maybe try tunin for maximum traction and the setting your steering rate a bit lower. I used to do this when I would sauce my front tires completely. To prevent traction roll, is set my steering rate to 85-87% at the beginning of the race and slowly move it back up to 100% as the race went on.
Hope this helps.
Front tires are a bit different. Depending on where the traction is, I can switch back to 2wd wide fronts of the traction has a really good balance front to rear. That doesn't necessarily mean that a 2wd front with full sauce is my preferred (for my driving style). Then comes the saucing part. If the traction is to the point where my car is getting twitchy, I will sauce just the inside of the front tires. 2wd front will get full sauce, always.
My go-to setup is
Front wing (in front of tower)
4wd front wide tires
1/2 sauce front, full sauce rear
-1° or 0° Front camber with 0° toe
-2° Rear camber
It's a balanced car, grip wise. Obviously as the race goes on I will lose a bit of traction, but I easily compensate it with my driving.
Also remember that driver input is more important than the setup. Maybe try tunin for maximum traction and the setting your steering rate a bit lower. I used to do this when I would sauce my front tires completely. To prevent traction roll, is set my steering rate to 85-87% at the beginning of the race and slowly move it back up to 100% as the race went on.
Hope this helps.
05-18-2017, 06:39 AM
#549
i run a 22 3.0 with a TLR laydown. I run a front wing and front 4wd wide. In order to play around with balanced traction, I only mess around with the front tires and the way I sauce them. I want to have maximum rear traction , mind you, so rear tires are sauced full before every qualifier/main.
Front tires are a bit different. Depending on where the traction is, I can switch back to 2wd wide fronts of the traction has a really good balance front to rear. That doesn't necessarily mean that a 2wd front with full sauce is my preferred (for my driving style). Then comes the saucing part. If the traction is to the point where my car is getting twitchy, I will sauce just the inside of the front tires. 2wd front will get full sauce, always.
My go-to setup is
Front wing (in front of tower)
4wd front wide tires
1/2 sauce front, full sauce rear
-1° or 0° Front camber with 0° toe
-2° Rear camber
It's a balanced car, grip wise. Obviously as the race goes on I will lose a bit of traction, but I easily compensate it with my driving.
Also remember that driver input is more important than the setup. Maybe try tunin for maximum traction and the setting your steering rate a bit lower. I used to do this when I would sauce my front tires completely. To prevent traction roll, is set my steering rate to 85-87% at the beginning of the race and slowly move it back up to 100% as the race went on.
Hope this helps.
Front tires are a bit different. Depending on where the traction is, I can switch back to 2wd wide fronts of the traction has a really good balance front to rear. That doesn't necessarily mean that a 2wd front with full sauce is my preferred (for my driving style). Then comes the saucing part. If the traction is to the point where my car is getting twitchy, I will sauce just the inside of the front tires. 2wd front will get full sauce, always.
My go-to setup is
Front wing (in front of tower)
4wd front wide tires
1/2 sauce front, full sauce rear
-1° or 0° Front camber with 0° toe
-2° Rear camber
It's a balanced car, grip wise. Obviously as the race goes on I will lose a bit of traction, but I easily compensate it with my driving.
Also remember that driver input is more important than the setup. Maybe try tunin for maximum traction and the setting your steering rate a bit lower. I used to do this when I would sauce my front tires completely. To prevent traction roll, is set my steering rate to 85-87% at the beginning of the race and slowly move it back up to 100% as the race went on.
Hope this helps.
05-18-2017, 07:20 AM
#550
05-18-2017, 10:12 AM
#551
05-18-2017, 10:40 AM
#552
I do need to actually compare the weight between the carbon strap vs stock. I have Ti ball studs and shock mounts on the way so that should help as well. The aluminum front pivot is for sure going to go since that is where I see most of the weight coming from aluminum stuff. Already have the TLR slipper eliminator, need to wait for the SR stuff to become available but definitely on the list. From your post I do see some other things to do in order to put it on a diet. Thank you for the reply.
Here's a video on some of the ways I dropped weight on my 22T and the $/gram ratio on what I found.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11w7yqhW5rE
05-18-2017, 07:12 PM
#553
No.TLR tie rods are 3.5mm and AE are 3mm. You would need to drill out the B6 cup to fit on a TLR tie rod. Than you will need AE ball studs cuz they are larger then TLR just don't recall off hand the size of the ball itself but do know the AE ball studs are bigger.
05-18-2017, 11:51 PM
#554
If you are contemplating on running the B6 ball cups try running the older style TLR HD ball cups. Just drill a hole in the top of them, haven't had an issue with ball cups popping off since I made the switch.
05-19-2017, 09:13 AM
#555
Tech Addict
What size drill bit do you use?
Thanks.