Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
#1427
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
I've almost completed my (very first) Tekno buggy and am VERY IMPRESSED!
I've built and raced many Truggies, short course and stadium trucks (I'm old), but somehow never owned a buggy, except one tenth scale back in the day.
I'm pretty o.c.d. about my rides and like everything nice and tight, balanced and looking good (to help make up for my driving, lol). During the build I noticed a pretty significant amount of play between the hinge pin holders (all but the rear outer hub-arm hinges), so I went to Home Depot and got some of those small white nylon washers (#6 & #8 I think), to tag take up the slack.
After playing with kit and new washers combos, I got all four arms nice and snug between the hinge blocks. But with the available washer thicknesses I had to work with, I ended up with zero slop... a perfect fit between the blocks with ZERO Binding! Just a nice free fall of the arms with no resistance.
I'm happy about that, but started wondering if this could be a bad thing? I mean, could removing the slop in the arms actually make them more prone to breaking?
I would've preferred to remove MOST of the slop with just a hair off play left but like I said, that's just how it worked out.
So... is this going to cause a problem, or do you guys think I'm OK?
Thanks, and very cool forum.
I've built and raced many Truggies, short course and stadium trucks (I'm old), but somehow never owned a buggy, except one tenth scale back in the day.
I'm pretty o.c.d. about my rides and like everything nice and tight, balanced and looking good (to help make up for my driving, lol). During the build I noticed a pretty significant amount of play between the hinge pin holders (all but the rear outer hub-arm hinges), so I went to Home Depot and got some of those small white nylon washers (#6 & #8 I think), to tag take up the slack.
After playing with kit and new washers combos, I got all four arms nice and snug between the hinge blocks. But with the available washer thicknesses I had to work with, I ended up with zero slop... a perfect fit between the blocks with ZERO Binding! Just a nice free fall of the arms with no resistance.
I'm happy about that, but started wondering if this could be a bad thing? I mean, could removing the slop in the arms actually make them more prone to breaking?
I would've preferred to remove MOST of the slop with just a hair off play left but like I said, that's just how it worked out.
So... is this going to cause a problem, or do you guys think I'm OK?
Thanks, and very cool forum.
#1428
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
#1430
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,263
From: Seattle
Is the tekin RX8 the go to ESC still these days? How does the Hobbywing Xerun compare? I am kind of shopping around at the moment and just curious as to what most people are running.
I actually have a Castle MonsterX in mine atm that has lasted 2 plus years now. Its been great but still exploring options. Also not trying to break the bank!
I actually have a Castle MonsterX in mine atm that has lasted 2 plus years now. Its been great but still exploring options. Also not trying to break the bank!
#1432
Is the tekin RX8 the go to ESC still these days? How does the Hobbywing Xerun compare? I am kind of shopping around at the moment and just curious as to what most people are running.
I actually have a Castle MonsterX in mine atm that has lasted 2 plus years now. Its been great but still exploring options. Also not trying to break the bank!
I actually have a Castle MonsterX in mine atm that has lasted 2 plus years now. Its been great but still exploring options. Also not trying to break the bank!
SCT version fits with planty of room to spare.
I have the HW 1900Kv on it, and it is scary fast.
#1433
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,463
From: Mc Rae, AR
Is the tekin RX8 the go to ESC still these days? How does the Hobbywing Xerun compare? I am kind of shopping around at the moment and just curious as to what most people are running.
I actually have a Castle MonsterX in mine atm that has lasted 2 plus years now. Its been great but still exploring options. Also not trying to break the bank!
I actually have a Castle MonsterX in mine atm that has lasted 2 plus years now. Its been great but still exploring options. Also not trying to break the bank!
Thing is, either of them can win races. Once you are proficient with setting them up for your needs you can't fault them for race results. They are both very popular choices at the track these days. I don't see that many people using Castle in the A-Main, but I'm sure there are a few around. Also consider that some new motor bearings would keep your current system performing well and save you some money.
#1434
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,463
From: Mc Rae, AR
I've almost completed my (very first) Tekno buggy and am VERY IMPRESSED!
I've built and raced many Truggies, short course and stadium trucks (I'm old), but somehow never owned a buggy, except one tenth scale back in the day.
I'm pretty o.c.d. about my rides and like everything nice and tight, balanced and looking good (to help make up for my driving, lol). During the build I noticed a pretty significant amount of play between the hinge pin holders (all but the rear outer hub-arm hinges), so I went to Home Depot and got some of those small white nylon washers (#6 & #8 I think), to tag take up the slack.
After playing with kit and new washers combos, I got all four arms nice and snug between the hinge blocks. But with the available washer thicknesses I had to work with, I ended up with zero slop... a perfect fit between the blocks with ZERO Binding! Just a nice free fall of the arms with no resistance.
I'm happy about that, but started wondering if this could be a bad thing? I mean, could removing the slop in the arms actually make them more prone to breaking?
I would've preferred to remove MOST of the slop with just a hair off play left but like I said, that's just how it worked out.
So... is this going to cause a problem, or do you guys think I'm OK?
Thanks, and very cool forum.
I've built and raced many Truggies, short course and stadium trucks (I'm old), but somehow never owned a buggy, except one tenth scale back in the day.
I'm pretty o.c.d. about my rides and like everything nice and tight, balanced and looking good (to help make up for my driving, lol). During the build I noticed a pretty significant amount of play between the hinge pin holders (all but the rear outer hub-arm hinges), so I went to Home Depot and got some of those small white nylon washers (#6 & #8 I think), to tag take up the slack.
After playing with kit and new washers combos, I got all four arms nice and snug between the hinge blocks. But with the available washer thicknesses I had to work with, I ended up with zero slop... a perfect fit between the blocks with ZERO Binding! Just a nice free fall of the arms with no resistance.
I'm happy about that, but started wondering if this could be a bad thing? I mean, could removing the slop in the arms actually make them more prone to breaking?
I would've preferred to remove MOST of the slop with just a hair off play left but like I said, that's just how it worked out.
So... is this going to cause a problem, or do you guys think I'm OK?
Thanks, and very cool forum.
Lot of OCD guys in RC cleaning and perfecting. That's a large part of the fun and satisfaction you get from this hobby. That sloppy fit is not going to be a major change in how you feel it's handling when driving the car. I would say anything 1.5mm or less will be hard to notice on a offroad track. Now if you were on a paved road course I would say .5 is where it would not matter.
Where I notice slop matters most is camber rods and steering no matter what surface. Even sloppy servo gears can come into play at some point. JMHO.
#1435
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,263
From: Seattle
I have both. Tekin and HW. Kinda got away from Castle past few years, but they have made many improvements and likely not far behind. IMO, Tekin still has a slight advantage in software. HW has closed the gap in last 2 years. Unless you are sponsored or have the money readily available to test both, I would go with HW and use extra funds for tires.
Thing is, either of them can win races. Once you are proficient with setting them up for your needs you can't fault them for race results. They are both very popular choices at the track these days. I don't see that many people using Castle in the A-Main, but I'm sure there are a few around. Also consider that some new motor bearings would keep your current system performing well and save you some money.
Thing is, either of them can win races. Once you are proficient with setting them up for your needs you can't fault them for race results. They are both very popular choices at the track these days. I don't see that many people using Castle in the A-Main, but I'm sure there are a few around. Also consider that some new motor bearings would keep your current system performing well and save you some money.
I typically blame my driving skills on my results anyways, unless of course something actually does malfunction. My Castle ESC has been flawless for 2+ years. I just want to try something else now really, but no I am not sponsored nor do I have disposable income.
Thanks for our comment, I think I am leaning towards the HW, and yeah saving $ for tires is ideal!
#1436
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
After 4or5 yrs of racing nitro I've now switched to electric, and the last time I ran electric we were running nicads and brushed motors! Although I hear good things about Tekin, when I made the switch I went the "cheap" route and got all Hobbywing for my first cars/ 4wd S.C., and this year starting (new to me) 1/8 Ebuggy I stuck with what has worked VERY well so far. I also see NO disadvantage to running Hobbywing.
#1437
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 59
From: Clayton North Carolina
I'm not on here often these days and I missed this post. You are doing the same thing I did when I started RC a lifetime ago. It's not wrong to want no slop, but I have been down this road many times. It is best to have enough slack in parts that you don't have binding after you hit the track a few weekends. It is also a tuning option to move A-Arms forward and back with shims, but there are threads on that and I wont get into it here.
Lot of OCD guys in RC cleaning and perfecting. That's a large part of the fun and satisfaction you get from this hobby. That sloppy fit is not going to be a major change in how you feel it's handling when driving the car. I would say anything 1.5mm or less will be hard to notice on a offroad track. Now if you were on a paved road course I would say .5 is where it would not matter.
Where I notice slop matters most is camber rods and steering no matter what surface. Even sloppy servo gears can come into play at some point. JMHO.
Lot of OCD guys in RC cleaning and perfecting. That's a large part of the fun and satisfaction you get from this hobby. That sloppy fit is not going to be a major change in how you feel it's handling when driving the car. I would say anything 1.5mm or less will be hard to notice on a offroad track. Now if you were on a paved road course I would say .5 is where it would not matter.
Where I notice slop matters most is camber rods and steering no matter what surface. Even sloppy servo gears can come into play at some point. JMHO.
I finally got to maiden this buggy today and after some slow lap break-in, I put allot of fast laps on it and I'm VERY happy with it box setup. All I plan to change for now is, add more rear toe-in just because I've always had positive results from that adjustment.
As for my "OCD spacers", nothing broke and it now has that ever so slight play in the arms that makes me feel a little better about them. I'm going to keep the spacers😁
#1439
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Step 1 - download and print out Joe's new setups
Step 2 - install Joe's new setups
Step 3 - drive car
Step 4 - accept compliments on how good your car looks
Step 5 - tell everyone you haven't touched your setup since you built it
#1440
LOL thanks!
looking at this setup:
https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg
What piston setup is this exactly? (2 x 3.1, 3 x 3.1, etc) Just says 3.1 or 3.0
looking at this setup:
https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...gh%20Track.jpg
What piston setup is this exactly? (2 x 3.1, 3 x 3.1, etc) Just says 3.1 or 3.0





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