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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

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Old 01-11-2018, 05:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread
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Last edit by: billdelong
Welcome to the EB4.4 Wiki page.
If you edit the page, please add your name and date prior to your addition. While an admin can view the history, this makes it easier for everyone to just check updates. We'll put the newest additions at the top.

Bob B 8/10/17 - Should I start with the kit setup?
The kit setup is a great place to start. One other option that many of us start with is Joe's rough track setup. You can find that setup here
In order to run it you need 3x2.1 pistons and 3x2.0 pistons. (They are marked on the sheet as 3.1 and 3.0).

Matt W 7/7/17 - What is overdrive and when should I use it?
The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

Tips and Tricks
Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:

Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:

Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-24-2017, 04:43 PM
  #1336  
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Advantage 3:

The larger pinion gear provides more contact area between the teeth and a smoother tooth plunge as the gears mesh. This results in less drag and less wear as well.
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:57 PM
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Anyone know where I can find the length of the center drive shaft?
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:56 PM
  #1338  
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Originally Posted by Yodah
Anyone know where I can find the length of the center drive shaft?
aluminium center drive shaft is 187mm long or 182mm from pin to pin. i killed one that's why it was laying around and easy to measure
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:59 PM
  #1339  
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Thank You!
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Old 11-08-2017, 06:36 AM
  #1340  
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I'm planning to build a EB48.4 and have a couple of questions about lipos please.

1. Is there any height restriction on 4s lipos because of the low body? A friend has a Reedy 4s 5200 in his EB48.3 and they are about 10mm less tall than an average 4s.

2. Is there a recommended 4s lipo weight to aim for to maintain the left to right balance? Planning a Tekin RX8 (~77g) and Tekin T8 1900kv (~311g) and undecided on servo (~?g).

Thanks! I'm looking forward to joining the Tekno club soon!
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:22 AM
  #1341  
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Originally Posted by Rysuleod
I'm planning to build a EB48.4 and have a couple of questions about lipos please.

1. Is there any height restriction on 4s lipos because of the low body? A friend has a Reedy 4s 5200 in his EB48.3 and they are about 10mm less tall than an average 4s.

2. Is there a recommended 4s lipo weight to aim for to maintain the left to right balance? Planning a Tekin RX8 (~77g) and Tekin T8 1900kv (~311g) and undecided on servo (~?g).

Thanks! I'm looking forward to joining the Tekno club soon!
The body on the tekno rig is a tight fit. Shorter/smaller lipo will fit better. A bigger concern might be the balance plug wires being in the center of the pack where the front to rear strap would lay on the lipo. The center strap locates lipo front or rearward for some balance adjustment if your pack doesn't fill the tray.

As for balance left to right, there are too many variables in electronics to confirm one weight is best. Suggest you load up chassis with all of your electronics and lipo of choice. Then take the time to balance the chassis left to right. That's something worth doing on any new build. Waste of time if you don't run the same lipo every run, so good idea to invest in 2 lipos of same weight and design for repeatable performance IMO.
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Old 11-13-2017, 09:55 AM
  #1342  
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Originally Posted by noworries
hi, selling my EB 48.4. Used 6x indoor clay.
please text me. 518-495-0703
I'm surprised a moderator has not busted your chops about this. Post your listing in the for sale section.
R/C Items: For Sale/Trade - R/C Tech Forums
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Old 11-17-2017, 03:09 PM
  #1343  
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Originally Posted by EbbTide
Ahh sweet! When in doubt, ebay lol.
Our season is over but the 24t horn got here ok!

BTW, the hitec servo screws aren't standard size. I ended up getting some 2.6x8mm Cap Head Screws (AXIA0023) and they fit perfectly. With the cap head you can ensure they are tight !
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Old 11-19-2017, 03:50 PM
  #1344  
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Originally Posted by Krio
Advantage 3:

The larger pinion gear provides more contact area between the teeth and a smoother tooth plunge as the gears mesh. This results in less drag and less wear as well.
however the motor won't sit as close to the center compared to a smaller pinion
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:57 AM
  #1345  
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Thinking I'm going to upgrade to the .4 next year. Had the .3 last year. I just couldn't get it to rotate.
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:58 AM
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What's a good starting setup?
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Old 12-02-2017, 09:23 AM
  #1347  
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Originally Posted by patyroach
What's a good starting setup?
Million dollar question. I wish there was an easy answer, but there are none. Setup depends on so many things such as track size, jumps, dirt consistency and driving style. Best I could suggest is something proven to work.

Pick your poison here. https://lutzinator.com/setup-sheets/

Just keep in mind the Pro can drive an aggressively setup car and that will likely make most people slower. There is no substitute for track time and changes you test yourself for your track. I suggest you pick a setup and change it to your needs as you go. If you are lucky one of the tracks listed is one you race on or know about to compare with yours. I hope that helps get you started.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:05 AM
  #1348  
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Originally Posted by patyroach
What's a good starting setup?
Alot of guys complained about lack of steering with the box setup.

Alot of guys would suggest starting with one of Joe's setups.

Myself, I would start with the recommended setup found here. https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...d%20Indoor.pdf

One thing to note though, that was indoors and 75°, if considerably warmer than that, go higher shock fluids (Not too extreme. 50-100CST based on temp) and the same with if your running in cooler, you would drop by same amounts.

I'm still only a few changes from that setup.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:28 PM
  #1349  
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Originally Posted by Thunder Trail
Million dollar question. I wish there was an easy answer, but there are none. Setup depends on so many things such as track size, jumps, dirt consistency and driving style. Best I could suggest is something proven to work.

Pick your poison here. https://lutzinator.com/setup-sheets/

Just keep in mind the Pro can drive an aggressively setup car and that will likely make most people slower. There is no substitute for track time and changes you test yourself for your track. I suggest you pick a setup and change it to your needs as you go. If you are lucky one of the tracks listed is one you race on or know about to compare with yours. I hope that helps get you started.
Thx for the advice!
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:32 PM
  #1350  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Alot of guys complained about lack of steering with the box setup.

Alot of guys would suggest starting with one of Joe's setups.

Myself, I would start with the recommended setup found here. https://wwwcdn.teknorc.com/wp-conten...d%20Indoor.pdf

One thing to note though, that was indoors and 75°, if considerably warmer than that, go higher shock fluids (Not too extreme. 50-100CST based on temp) and the same with if your running in cooler, you would drop by same amounts.

I'm still only a few changes from that setup.
My experience with the .3 was a lack of steering or rotating so that the rear was still planted while on power steering. It helped a ton to rake the car a lot and i used much lighter fluid in the front than the rear. The car got much better doing that but i had a chance to run a .4 and i was very impressed with it. Hoping to have a much better turning car as a result
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