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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 11-27-2016, 12:03 PM
  #16  
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sounds good. With the various vehicles being made in the 1/10 4wd class, I am looking forward to seeing what Tekno comes out with that will define the vehicle even if the general layout copies what the various manufacturers are going with.
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:35 PM
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subscribed
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:21 PM
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The wait is too long!!!! ><
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:36 AM
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Good things come to those that wait
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Old 12-01-2016, 06:04 AM
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That's true but I had to buy a ZX6.6 to tide me over. I was sick of associateds bs.
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:05 AM
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hopefully the thread is updated with more info on a regular basis and not just the annoucement to keep people happy. Announcing this far out should be an interesting ride.

One thing I hope they can tell us now is what offset wheels the vehicle will use (be cool if you could use different offsets with a simple hex change)
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
hopefully the thread is updated with more info on a regular basis and not just the annoucement to keep people happy. Announcing this far out should be an interesting ride.

One thing I hope they can tell us now is what offset wheels the vehicle will use (be cool if you could use different offsets with a simple hex change)
Are you referring to the front or rear wheels? The offsets between the different brands are all very close, just the tube length of the axle hole is different on the rears. The fronts are also very close across the brands, very little difference in offset and the Kyosho just has a smaller axle hole. But to your question, right now all I can say is that it will have 12mm hexes front and rear.

Side note, I really hope the new IFMAR rules get enforced. Then all wheels will be standard across all cars. I don't think they've released the 2wd front offset rules yet, but it can't be long. It's kind of amazing to me that the class has been around as long as it has without having stricter wheel dimensions.
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Old 12-01-2016, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Are you referring to the front or rear wheels? The offsets between the different brands are all very close, just the tube length of the axle hole is different on the rears. The fronts are also very close across the brands, very little difference in offset and the Kyosho just has a smaller axle hole. But to your question, right now all I can say is that it will have 12mm hexes front and rear.

Side note, I really hope the new IFMAR rules get enforced. Then all wheels will be standard across all cars. I don't think they've released the 2wd front offset rules yet, but it can't be long. It's kind of amazing to me that the class has been around as long as it has without having stricter wheel dimensions.
Mainly thinking about the TLR 12mm 4wd front offset. I got some of those wheels as that is what works for the dex410v5 12mm exotek conversion. Rears would be B6 compatible here.
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:23 PM
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I ran Kyosho 10th scales for a long time, still have a few. A common thing we did was the Avid rear stub axle change so that one could use the other wheel thicknesses and everything would fit for any brand 12mm rear wheel.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:30 PM
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Any more news on this?
Any peaks?
Just a small peak, come on🤑🤑🤑
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:50 AM
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with the announcement this far out, I'd be curious what they would be willing to divulge.

I do hope to see some Tekno specific takes on the layout of a 1/10 4wd buggy. From my perspective at least I'd be curious on the benefits of a more inline electronic setup (servo centered ala durango) versus the current way other designs are going.
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:01 AM
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I am hope same layout as a buggy but smaller size
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Old 12-22-2016, 04:20 AM
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12 mm hexes? I hope,something close to xray's xb4
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:03 PM
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yeah i think 12mm would be a given but you never know.

It would be cool if it would be possible to do a layout similar to the eb48.3 . Or who knows, maybe something that allows more weight bias changes that what we currently see with other vehicles.

not saying thats a requirement for me, just curious on Tekno's take on things.
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:27 PM
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For me to used my lipos out my truck that would be a good thing as I don't want buy different lipos
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