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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 03-23-2017, 07:25 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by aspiringracer View Post
I paused that video probably 30 times to get those few images too; pretty anxious to see some real quality pics/videos! Anyone else notice how the body/chassis seems to taper back towards the rear diff? I'm guessing they stood up the steering servo and laid it out like a scaled down eb48.4. Time will tell!
Its possible. The Durango DEX410V5 body kind of does the same thing as the layout they use has a centralized servo and the chassis after you get past the center diff is actually wider. Maybe side pods are wider there (the durango its the actual chassis plate)
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Old 03-23-2017, 07:37 AM
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OMG where are da spy shots?!?! And why no pre order??? Madness!

Seriously am dying to see it in full form though. I don't really care what my savings account looks like when they start selling these things because I'll deplete that shyte if I have to lol
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Old 03-23-2017, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
This isn't an AE thread
Yea... otherwise there would have already been 8 pages just about hex and wheels.... LOL
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
12mm hexes for sure. If you check out IFMAR's rules, there's an outline for standard wheel dimensions. It looks like all the manufacturer's are heading toward that.
Thanks for the reply on Ryan's FB page, got me to check out this thread to get more details and this post here answers all my track width questions, much appreciated!


Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
and you'd be stuck buying their springs. no thanks. conventional 12mm shocks please.
Sure would be nice if there was a standard for both shocks and wheels alike!


Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I think there are several less than obvious reasons droop screws aren't use...

"Droop screws are not really practical for 1/10 buggies. The hinge pin heights we run are so low that there's no room for droop tabs on the chassis. If you see a 1/10 buggy equipped with droop screws and droop tabs, chances are their hinge pin heights or roll centers are too high." T. Deguzman
I had droop screws on my InTech ER-14, and they were awesome... the only reason I ditched the car was because there wasn't any support for lightened drive line parts and I switched over to a Schumacher K2 with MIP Pucks and installed a slipper eliminator to further reduce rotating mass and I consequently went from 3rd to 1st in respective 2016 Summer to 2016 Winter Series events at our local club in the 13.5T Super Stock class after swapping out from the ER-14 to K2 (lightened).

My biggest complaint with the K2 is lack of droop screws, I have to install spacers inside the front shocks which is a real pain... especially when track conditions change and I need to swap out those pesky spacers.. argh!


Anyway... our local track will be switching over to Astroturf soon and I can't wait to see some setup sheets for the EB410 on a turf track, also would be nice to learn if there will be any lightened drive line parts available to support the Super Stock class?

Last edited by billdelong; 03-23-2017 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 03-23-2017, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Thanks for the reply on Ryan's FB page, got me to check out this thread to get more details and this post here answers all my track width questions, much appreciated!



Sure would be nice if there was a standard for both shocks and wheels alike!




I had droop screws on my InTech ER-14, and they were awesome... the only reason I ditched the car was because there wasn't any support for lightened drive line parts and I switched over to a Schumacher K2 with MIP Pucks and installed a slipper eliminator to further reduce rotating mass and I consequently went from 3rd to 1st in respective 2016 Summer to 2016 Winter Series events at our local club in the 13.5T Super Stock class after swapping out from the ER-14 to K2 (lightened).

My biggest complaint with the K2 is lack of droop screws, I have to install spacers inside the front shocks which is a real pain... especially when track conditions change and I need to swap out those pesky spacers.. argh!


Anyway... our local track will be switching over to Astroturf soon and I can't wait to see some setup sheets for the EB410 on a turf track, also would be nice to learn if there will be any lightened drive line parts available to support the Super Stock class?
Get towers from the OG K1 not the Areo. I think there either 2 or 3mm taller., unsrcrew the
ballcups and you have all the adjustability you will need. I have run schumacher ballcups
out several mm and never had one pull off the shock.
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:01 PM
  #171  
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Looks like it will be worth the wait everyone. Can't wait to see it release and further revamp the wheeler class. Saw it being ran but nothing much of what it actually looks like other than on the track. From what i could tell the rear of the chassis is very narrow like from halfway back on the chassis it starts narrowing like a diamond shape to about as wide as a pivot block would be. (Sorry if thats too much to leak Danny) Looked to do everything well wish they could have stayed for racing yesterday.
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Old 03-24-2017, 12:00 AM
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Looks Awesome from what you can see. Body and narrow rear half reminds me of Sworkz first wheeler being their S104 EK1 thus their shorty lipo body. Really tapered and narrow towards the back 1/3rd. Sounds nice and smooth as well. Tekno will sell a mother load and more of these.
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Old 03-24-2017, 01:30 AM
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If its that narrow in the rear then that answers the layout question. The battery will
have to go under the rear driveshaft like the durango and serpent. At that point there is
only so many ways to fit whats left.

So long shock geometry, heavily tapered aluminum chassis with a center mounted LiPo.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Get towers from the OG K1 not the Areo. I think there either 2 or 3mm taller., unsrcrew the
ballcups and you have all the adjustability you will need. I have run schumacher ballcups
out several mm and never had one pull off the shock.
so you're using multiple shock mount locations to adjust droop?

can't wait to see how the EB410 adjusts droop!
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Get towers from the OG K1 not the Areo. I think there either 2 or 3mm taller., unsrcrew the
ballcups and you have all the adjustability you will need. I have run schumacher ballcups
out several mm and never had one pull off the shock.
Hopefully the EB410 factors in something to adjust droop without having to pull the shock apart and install limiters. Even if they have say longer ball cups and applicable shock rod threads to do this versus droop screws.

Originally Posted by JsK View Post
If its that narrow in the rear then that answers the layout question. The battery will
have to go under the rear driveshaft like the durango and serpent. At that point there is
only so many ways to fit whats left.

So long shock geometry, heavily tapered aluminum chassis with a center mounted LiPo.
Curious if they run with things being centered to include the servo ala durango. Then we would have to see how high they had to run the spur gear for clearance.

curious to see.
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
so you're using multiple shock mount locations to adjust droop?

can't wait to see how the EB410 adjusts droop!
No, the original towers are taller so they will reduce droop. 90 % of the time your going to be
reducing the amount of droop from the stock k2....so put on the taller towers, unscrew the
ballcups until you are at the stock k2 droop setting. Now when you want to remove droop its
as simple as screwing the ballcups back in 1/2 turn at a time.
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
No, the original towers are taller so they will reduce droop. 90 % of the time your going to be
reducing the amount of droop from the stock k2....so put on the taller towers, unscrew the
ballcups until you are at the stock k2 droop setting. Now when you want to remove droop its
as simple as screwing the ballcups back in 1/2 turn at a time.
Ah, I get it now, so I guess you can still uniformly measure/adjust droop in similar fashion with the 1/8 buggies by measuring nut to ball (no pun intended) across the mounted length of shock... I agree the stock K2 front tower is definitely too short, without a minimum of 3mm droop spacers in the shocks, the front drive shafts would pop out with the MIP Pucks, it was a very frustrating first day of racing with the car to figure out that issue, ha!

Thanks for the tip!

Last edited by billdelong; 03-24-2017 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 03-24-2017, 11:59 AM
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june 21st....first day of summer
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Old 03-25-2017, 01:04 AM
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Glad tekno is making it their trademark using truck size shocks for their buggies. Really appreciate how much droop and ground clearance the 48.3 has. If the eb410 has massive ground clearance also, that would make it versatile being that I bash also, and ground clearance is the only thing stopping 1/10 wheelers from driving well on grass and other places. Was planning on getting a stadium truck, but I'll wait for details.

I've got a 48.3 with .4 steering, don't plan on getting the .4 but why has their stuff been on backorder for this long? Does tekno make their products inhouse?
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Old 03-25-2017, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by latentspeed View Post
Glad tekno is making it their trademark using truck size shocks for their buggies. Really appreciate how much droop and ground clearance the 48.3 has. If the eb410 has massive ground clearance also, that would make it versatile being that I bash also, and ground clearance is the only thing stopping 1/10 wheelers from driving well on grass and other places. Was planning on getting a stadium truck, but I'll wait for details.

I've got a 48.3 with .4 steering, don't plan on getting the .4 but why has their stuff been on backorder for this long? Does tekno make their products inhouse?
just like you I follow this thread to discover if the 410 is bashable !

tekno produces in Taiwan as far as I know
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