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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 01-17-2019, 05:13 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 10-12-2017, 08:25 PM
  #1516  
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A few build notes:
1. When inserting the grub screws in the front or rear hubs, make sure you don't mix them up with the ones that go in the wheel hexes. The longer ones go in the hubs. I accidently did this on the rear and couldn't figure out why the wheel would not go on. Duh...
2. Be very careful when putting on the shock caps. The threads are very fine and the plastic in the caps is very soft. I had issues with 3 of 4. Took quite a bit of time to get them not cross threaded. I have never had this issue with any kit even the SCT410 caps.
3. The left and right screws for the shocks don't fit in my JC thumb wrench. I had to use a plastic Associated tool get them tight. Really wish these were normal screws or at least had at 2 or 2.5mm hex in the end.

Overall the build went well and man thing is beefy. Can't wait to try it on some dirt this weekend.

And for anyone who is curious NEITHER xb4 or b64 center slipper will work on this kit. THEY DO NOT FIT. The xb4 is close and I think with some tweaking could fit. It's about 2mm too long in Stock form.
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB410 Thread-20171012_131521.jpg   Tekno RC EB410 Thread-20171012_154334.jpg  

Last edited by E-Mann; 10-14-2017 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:29 PM
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Lets try this again. Now completely race ready with the CF towers and center fan mount with fan. shock collars are all the way at the top to try and get everything even although I know have orange fronts instead of the kit yellow. Also have the front swayer. For reference this is with a Protek 4900, SMC 170 ESC, Protek 100ss servo (not a shorty but about the same weight, MRC transponder and Sanwa 481 receiver. No Ti or aluminum yet.






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Old 10-13-2017, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
Lets try this again. Now completely race ready with the CF towers and center fan mount with fan. shock collars are all the way at the top to try and get everything even although I know have orange fronts instead of the kit yellow. Also have the front swayer. For reference this is with a Protek 4900, SMC 170 ESC, Protek 100ss servo (not a shorty but about the same weight, MRC transponder and Sanwa 481 receiver. No Ti or aluminum yet.
.
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB410 Thread-corner-weights2.jpg  
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
...Now completely race ready with...MRC transponder...
Curious if MRC is a new company making transponders or did you mean MRT?
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi,
Email me, I'll get one of my workers to build it for you

performance at exotekracing.com
Exotek developing upgrades for the eb410? Im a fan of exotek. Just asking....
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
So were you surprised?
I was! Then I saw there were a grand total of 14 entries and I wasn't. But then I saw who he was able to beat and I was surprised again.

Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Using DG Designs and jmcelroy42 work (thank you both) a CG height assumption of 40mm (a 20mm ride height and half of the stuff on the chassis plus some change) and a 290mm wheelbase (2mm shy of the maximum allowed by ROAR rules, because I can't find that info pertaining to the EB410) every 1g (attainable even for 13.5T) of acceleration(positive or negative) there's 228gr that are transferred front to back so the weight bias during a 1g of acceleration would look like this:
F R
645 1008
39% 61%

Skipped squat induced CG changes and if the tires can take that 1g of acceleration (a bit lower transfer but remember we run anti squat so no big deal, the tires are the big deal but I think on upwards of low traction this info is solid provided the very scientific weighting method by DG Designs). This only happens for the numbers shared by DG!

@AntH3000 and @Krio, you seem knowledgeable, I like that. Always remember the car isn't static during racing

@Tekno, if you want me to keep spreading your secrets send free stuff to me. Just kidding!
I understand the car isn't static. However, grams aren't transferred. They are static. The moment of inertia is static. No amount of accelerating or braking can get around that and not being able to adjust those values without bolting weight on the car is my only concern.
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:13 AM
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Car should arrive today based on latest tracking , curious if it is possible to get the standard Tekno servo horn to fit with a LP servo with possibly some modification? I'm hoping longer screw and maybe some shims along with removing some material from end of serv horn. Anyone else have this same dilema until the NEW Tekno horn is available....
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Car should arrive today based on latest tracking , curious if it is possible to get the standard Tekno servo horn to fit with a LP servo with possibly some modification? I'm hoping longer screw and maybe some shims along with removing some material from end of serv horn. Anyone else have this same dilema until the NEW Tekno horn is available....
Just mount the servo in the standard mount until you can get the LP specific horn.

From the looks of the plastic horn you will need one like this to use the LP servo and mount.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/ruddog-...p-0085/p538043
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Just mount the servo in the standard mount until you can get the LP specific horn.

From the looks of the plastic horn you will need one like this to use the LP servo and mount.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/ruddog-...p-0085/p538043
I have an extra horn I may try to modify if it looks like it'll work, otherwise I'll use the standard mount. Just figured someone else may have already successfully done this?
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:12 AM
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Just got off the phone with Tower. I was told that they should be there today, and be going out on Monday.
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JRSlash View Post
Exotek developing upgrades for the eb410? Im a fan of exotek. Just asking....
Thanks! Yes a few pieces to start but honestly the 410 looks pretty good out of the box.
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Thanks! Yes a few pieces to start but honestly the 410 looks pretty good out of the box.
Center diff setup like you guys did no the D413 with the spur gears would be really really nice.

maybe some custom weights too that give it a nice "factory" kind of look as well as adding weight too ...


Thats great news on tower. If they "ship" monday, I wonder if that means for pre-orders if they drop to processing prior to the closing of the tower e-cash period for this month? If not, thats kind of shady.

Last edited by Cain; 10-13-2017 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Thats great news on tower. If they "ship" monday, I would if that means for pre-orders if they drop to processing prior to the closing of the tower e-cash period for this month? If not, thats kind of shady.
This is kinda what I was thinking too if they get them today they should be able to process them today or tomorrow and will end up shipping Monday. So for those of you who pre-ordered through Tower I would think/hope the E-cash will apply.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by AccessRacer View Post
Does anybody know anyone that would want to build my car for me? I am a quadriplegic and love to drive my cars but I cannot build them or work on them. Thank you
Jeremy Mcguigan is a team driver, and does builds VERY affordable. Might want to reach out to him on FB.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Using DG Designs and jmcelroy42 work (thank you both) a CG height assumption of 40mm (a 20mm ride height and half of the stuff on the chassis plus some change) and a 290mm wheelbase (2mm shy of the maximum allowed by ROAR rules, because I can't find that info pertaining to the EB410) every 1g (attainable even for 13.5T) of acceleration(positive or negative) there's 228gr that are transferred front to back so the weight bias during a 1g of acceleration would look like this:
F R
645 1008
39% 61%

Skipped squat induced CG changes and if the tires can take that 1g of acceleration (a bit lower transfer but remember we run anti squat so no big deal, the tires are the big deal but I think on upwards of low traction this info is solid provided the very scientific weighting method by DG Designs). This only happens for the numbers shared by DG!

@AntH3000 and @Krio, you seem knowledgeable, I like that. Always remember the car isn't static during racing

@Tekno, if you want me to keep spreading your secrets send free stuff to me. Just kidding!
Under acceleration on carpet this distribution is great, but on corner entry and mid corner I'm not convinced based upon the tyre width offset front / rear. Nice to see those figures on vertical wheel forces under acceleration.
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