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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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12-19-2017, 02:21 PM

#2866

platgof

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Not the ideal place for 10th scale. These are tougher from what my friends are saying. I will get mine from the next Tower shipment.

12-19-2017, 02:27 PM

#2867

Krio

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TRIPLE 675

Can anyone compare/contrast on the driving characteristics and durability of the Tekno vs the B64D? Thinking about switching as i run alot on a rough, predominantly 1/8 outdoor offroad track that has done a number on my B64. Thanks

I drive a B64d and have test driven a friends EB410. Just from a durability standpoint for your track and conditions, get the 410. If you want it to handle like your B64d, it can be done. The biggest thing is matching the weight bias.

I could run similar lap times between the two, but they drove very differently. The b64d was best driven like a 2wd buggy. Brake while going straight before entering the corner, roll through, and then gradually accelerate as you straighten out. It makes it very easy to switch between my 2wd and 4wd during a race day. The 410 just wants to be on power all the time to get the same lap times. I would brake just like the b64 on the straight, but then as soon as I started turning I would be back on power.

12-19-2017, 02:32 PM

#2868

dodomic

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Has anyone experimented with the b64 slipper in the eb410 on clay indoor or outdoor and what have you learned from it?

12-19-2017, 02:46 PM

#2869

TRIPLE 675

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Krio

Thanks for the input! Sounds like the Tekno car likes to be driven more like an 1/8 scale which is more suited to my background. I completely agree on what you said about the B64 cornering, I’ve had to adjust quite a bit to it. I don’t use the car competitively but more so for practice and fun laps. Thanks again for your excellent response!

12-19-2017, 04:25 PM

#2870

RazorRC

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TRIPLE 675

I mean, I did a whole video on this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnq5P2hjLAA

12-19-2017, 04:58 PM

#2871

Tbuggy

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there is a running video of the two racing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ipmLajln94

I think the tekno driver was being nice!

12-19-2017, 04:58 PM

#2872

platgof

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Back ordered mine. I have a Tekin 7.5 and plan on using it with the RSX, but might go with the 6.5 Spec R motor. I am glad it handles more like an 8th scale buggy, sounds fun.

12-19-2017, 05:56 PM

#2873

E-Mann

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TRIPLE 675

In my first day out with the tekno I was able to do much faster and consistent laps than my b64d. Only broken a rear camber link on thr tekno. Vs multiple arms, front dogbones, shock shafts, shock caps on the b64d.

See this post for details (also posted on petit rc setup page).

Tekno RC EB410 Thread

12-19-2017, 06:14 PM

#2874

rc-racer75

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Tekin SpecR 6.5t

Quote:

Originally Posted by platgof

Back ordered mine. I have a Tekin 7.5 and plan on using it with the RSX, but might go with the 6.5 Spec R motor. I am glad it handles more like an 8th scale buggy, sounds fun.

Would not get the SpecR 6.5t it is designed for on-road only. Per Randy Pike from Tekin. Stick with the Gen3 6.5t for off-road racing.

platgof likes this.

12-19-2017, 07:32 PM

#2875

rvrslt1

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On Monday I tried the Exotek center spool. Current gearing was 29/75. Car was quick. Much more exhilaration. Was able to clear a triple that I could not with the stock center diff and gearing. May try 30/75 next.

12-20-2017, 02:41 AM

#2876

RCW

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Has anyone tried running 2 gears in the diffs for 13.5?

12-20-2017, 02:47 AM

#2877

celt

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbuggy

there is a running video of the two racing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ipmLajln94

I think the tekno driver was being nice!

For sure he was...you can see him holding up in almost every corner.

12-20-2017, 05:53 AM

#2878

TRIPLE 675

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Quote:

Originally Posted by E-Mann

Thanks

12-20-2017, 07:16 AM

#2879

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RCW

Has anyone tried running 2 gears in the diffs for 13.5?

My understanding is that if you do this then you'll need to go with thicker diff fluid to compensate the missing friction from the 2 planetary gears.

I would be more interested in learning if anyone has found some plastic gears that might be compatible from another brand?

RCW likes this.

12-20-2017, 10:13 AM

#2880

E-Mann

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For reference the metal tekno gears on plastic crossbar weigh roughly the same 3grams the B64 plastic gears with metal crossbar do. I know xray coomposite/plastic gears dont work. Tekno is already pretty solid from a reduced driveline point of view.

billdelong likes this.