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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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11-05-2017, 12:32 PM

#2116

joss9999

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Join Date: Aug 2014

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out drive breakage

I remember that on the xb4 there was alot of outdrive breakage until they added a note on the mannual to not use certain pads cause it would make the axel go in the space of the pin at max compretion and at max droop so if u have marks on your axels CHECK WHERE THEY COME FROM , lol .

EbbTide likes this.

11-05-2017, 12:39 PM

#2117

nanoverse

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Krio

I would not recommend jumping from 30k or 60k to 500k or 1m in the EB410. 80k or 100k, maybe.

Bollocks. On carpet try 500k and higher.

11-05-2017, 12:54 PM

#2118

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nanoverse

Bollocks. On carpet try 500k and higher.

With the higher volume diffs and forward weight bias, you can get away with lighter center diff oils according to Tekno. Which is why the recommended oils seem low for carpet

11-05-2017, 06:40 PM

#2119

Bob Barry

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Guys keep in mind that at Vegas the team went to 60k center on super high bite carpet. If they feel 60k is good for them, I would at least work with what they are trying.

charvel74 likes this.

11-05-2017, 06:57 PM

#2120

charvel74

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

Guys keep in mind that at Vegas the team went to 60k center on super high bite carpet. If they feel 60k is good for them, I would at least work with what they are trying.

I am running stock build diff oils and seems to slip a bit on high bite carpet. Holy cow its a great handling car. I swear its just as easy to drive as my tlr 22 4.0

11-05-2017, 09:50 PM

#2121

STLNLST

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrslt1

Off Monday and going to start my build. Only run at OCRC so clay with high bite. So from you that have ran the car with condishions like this what should I start off with in the diff’s? Will be running 13.5. Thanks.

Run it box stock. My local track is the same as OCRC and guys are doing well with the kit setup.

11-05-2017, 11:34 PM

#2122

ljungberg

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Join Date: Nov 2017

Location: Stockholm

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Yesterday I Went for 20k, 60k and 7k. Will test it proper again on Tuesday Before I go for a higher value of center diff oil.

The car has a lot of grip and tires that was useless on my B6 is still good on the EB410. Here we run Schumacher Cactus front and rear on high grip carpet. It´s like touring but with jumps :-)

11-06-2017, 06:31 AM

#2123

JRSlash

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Forgot to post this.

I drilled my rear pistons to 2mm yesterday. This is the Bit set I used. Has this bit sizes for $3.99 at your local HF.
(5) 0.5mm, (5) 0.6mm, (5) 0.8mm, (3) 1.0mm, (2) 1.2mm, (2) 1.5mm, (2) 1.8mm, (2) 2.0mm, (2) 2.35mm, (2) 3.0mm

https://www.harborfreight.com/high-s...-pc-61526.html

11-06-2017, 07:24 AM

#2124

Cain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DG Designs

I think they need to run the worlds at your track. they complain about surfaces changes from heat to heat, how about corner to corner! Also why does Fight Club come to mind watching this video. Id have no chance, I'm blind without 20k lumens on my car!

Lol yeah ... First rule at that track ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by charvel74

That section with the 180* with tan carpet looks very rough for a carpet track.

The tan carpet area has a variety of bumpy areas, so your setup that is excellent from the smooth sections you have to watch especially going into the sweeper (not show in the vid as its a different layout now) as there is a bumpy section basically after a jump right on the turn. if you hit that too fast you can actually traction roll right over.

For me I played slightly with droop on the rear to get a bit more plush landing and that helped. I just need a bit more free rear end relative to grip and I think I'll be fine. The octagons that came with the car work great, though, I think AKA slicks still offer best grip to amount of sauce you use.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

Guys keep in mind that at Vegas the team went to 60k center on super high bite carpet. If they feel 60k is good for them, I would at least work with what they are trying.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRSlash

There were some bits posted that offer the .1mm sizes after 2.0 (so 2.1mm, etc), maybe that should be added to the wiki? I picked mine up off of ebay for like $6, just need some spare pistons to work on.

For you guys going going with higher center diff oils which can give more throttle response, what do you notice as far as how the rear end reacts on carpet during an onpower turn? I am wondering if this either frees up the rear end or locks it in a bit more. I may go up to 30K next or 60K. heck if I find a chop shop maybe pick up another center diff to play with.

11-06-2017, 07:25 AM

#2125

ezlight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by AJrollin

One thing to note is I support the arms with the droop screws where they just touch the pads. I think this may be why some have broken an outdrive

I do this with every thing I run. But I do it without shocks on, and let gravity drop the arms.

11-06-2017, 07:34 AM

#2126

nanoverse

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ljungberg

We have been driving carpet and mixed indoor for years. I think that guys in America have a lot to learn about carpet setups. You just want that explosive acceleration on carpet and insurance that the diffs won't "diff out".

11-06-2017, 07:43 AM

#2127

billdelong

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Saw a great tip on FB today to prevent the pins from popping out of the rear arms using Losi 22 SCT pins:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...&theater&ifg=1

I plan to make this upgrade after seeing a local racer pop the pin over this past weekend.... he didn't break any parts, but I guess those arms will flex just enough to make me nervous, and this fix seems simple enough to me.

EbbTide likes this.

11-06-2017, 08:08 AM

#2128

Krio

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Someone locally had the exact same thing happen with the rear outer hinge pin ejecting on a hard hit. They initially thought their day was done given how bad it looked from the drivers stand.

11-06-2017, 08:20 AM

#2129

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cain

For you guys going going with higher center diff oils which can give more throttle response, what do you notice as far as how the rear end reacts on carpet during an onpower turn? I am wondering if this either frees up the rear end or locks it in a bit more. I may go up to 30K next or 60K. heck if I find a chop shop maybe pick up another center diff to play with.

I'm running 13.5T on turf, and played around with different fluids during this weekend, I was also trying different tires and made a rookie mistake by swapping tires for the main and completely fell apart and landed DFL after qualifying 2nd overall, doh!

with 15K my fastest lap was 20.9
with 30K my fastest lap was 20.7
with 60K my fastest lap was 21.2

I think I turned the second fastest lap at our club this week where the fastest lap was by a local pro at 20.5, he also noticed that I was pulling on him in the straights, no doubt my car was the most powerful 13.5T setup at the track, the Trinity MonsterMax is legit (with 24/81 gearing), I got mine from Eric Anderson and that dude knows how to tune them right, no need to buy a fancy "certified" motor:
https://teameamotorsports.com/collec...nster-max-13-5

For an average joe racer like me, my consistency is hit and miss so I'll plan to spend more time before I make a final decision on what's best for my driving style, but I'm really leaning toward 30K with only 1 race day with the car. Super happy and I will probably be selling my Shuey K2 soon