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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 11-03-2017, 02:35 AM
  #2086  
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Originally Posted by ljungberg
Yesterday I had some carpet run with my car. The car runs real smoth. I also tested with 50 grams rear weight on the car and I really liked that.

A question about the diff. The stock setup (15k, 15k, 7k) and If I see on petitrc people run 60k oil in the center diff. If i compare to other brands like AE B65, Xray etc. They run 300k, 500k up to a 1mil. How come that the Tekno drivers don´t do that? I will test 500k this weekend on the car to see how It behaves out of corners and when landing After jumps.

I believe it was mentioned further back in this thread by Matt. These diffs are higher volume than other diffs in a typical 1/10th buggy and therefore you are able to run more fluid/thinner making them more consistent. it was mentioned that they saw no point in running a lower volume diff and then locking it up with super heavy diff oil. honestly I've not run much carpet so just going by what was said by Tekno.
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Old 11-03-2017, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by AJrollin
I believe it was mentioned further back in this thread by Matt. These diffs are higher volume than other diffs in a typical 1/10th buggy and therefore you are able to run more fluid/thinner making them more consistent. it was mentioned that they saw no point in running a lower volume diff and then locking it up with super heavy diff oil. honestly I've not run much carpet so just going by what was said by Tekno.
Thanks,

The reason I asked is because a AE team driver looked at the car and had some thoughts about the diff when rotating the diff and Wheels. He said that if you run a while and the oil gets hot the diff will be even smother therefore you loose driveability on the carpet out of corners. So he recommended to test 500k up to 1mil to see how it behaves.

He was impressed about the layout of the car. I Think everyone that has looked at the car has really liked what they have seen.
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Old 11-03-2017, 05:46 AM
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It may also have to do with the forward weight bias the EB410 has.
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ljungberg
Thanks,

The reason I asked is because a AE team driver looked at the car and had some thoughts about the diff when rotating the diff and Wheels. He said that if you run a while and the oil gets hot the diff will be even smother therefore you loose driveability on the carpet out of corners. So he recommended to test 500k up to 1mil to see how it behaves.

He was impressed about the layout of the car. I Think everyone that has looked at the car has really liked what they have seen.
I would not recommend jumping from 30k or 60k to 500k or 1m in the EB410. 80k or 100k, maybe.
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:46 AM
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crossing fingers the weather holds. Tomorrow will be first day of battle for the EB410.

Also looking to play with the hudy setup station I got here, never used one before
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio
I would not recommend jumping from 30k or 60k to 500k or 1m in the EB410. 80k or 100k, maybe.
I noticed a remarkable improvement on turf when bumping up from 15K to 30K, but I'd like to think that 1M wouldn't be much different than running a spool where I found with the Exotek B64 spool the car felt snappier on corner exit but I was losing a little consistency in the chicanes. Not really sure if I need to go much higher than 30K but I might give 60K a try this weekend just for grins.

I also saw Joe posted a new setup yesterday and he's currently running 30K on high traction clay:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1&type=3&ifg=1
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
crossing fingers the weather holds. Tomorrow will be first day of battle for the EB410.

Also looking to play with the hudy setup station I got here, never used one before
Good luck out there man! Try to get some new peeps driving the eb410

I think I'm gonna put off my build for a few days until I get the RCSS titanium screws in. I realized I don't have any 2.5 titanium screws on hand for the diff so I figured I might as well do it right the first time

Last edited by EbbTide; 11-03-2017 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 11-03-2017, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
It may also have to do with the forward weight bias the EB410 has.
Bingo.
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Old 11-03-2017, 11:38 AM
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[QUOTE=billdelong;15068894]I noticed a remarkable improvement on turf when bumping up from 15K to 30K, but I'd like to think that 1M wouldn't be much different than running a spool where I found with the Exotek B64 spool the car felt snappier on corner exit but I was losing a little consistency in the chicanes. Not really sure if I need to go much higher than 30K but I might give 60K a try this weekend just for grins.

I also saw Joe posted a new setup yesterday and he's currently running 30K on high traction clay.

I have 60k in mine and it felt much better on high grip carpet than with the 15k. I will run a couople of more testing before going up to maybe 80-100k.

What about the shocks? I now run red springs in front and yellow back. Having the stock recommended oil but will also test a little bit harder oil like 700-725 in front. What oil do you members run indoor in these shocks?
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Old 11-03-2017, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ljungberg
What about the shocks? I now run red springs in front and yellow back. Having the stock recommended oil but will also test a little bit harder oil like 700-725 in front. What oil do you members run indoor in these shocks?
I'm running Matt's shock setup on our turf track and it's been great for me:
http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...p%20Carpet.jpg

Here's what the 60' x 100' track looks like to get an idea of the layout:
https://www.facebook.com/ThornhillRa...446492/?type=3
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Old 11-03-2017, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong
I noticed a remarkable improvement on turf when bumping up from 15K to 30K, but I'd like to think that 1M wouldn't be much different than running a spool where I found with the Exotek B64 spool the car felt snappier on corner exit but I was losing a little consistency in the chicanes. Not really sure if I need to go much higher than 30K but I might give 60K a try this weekend just for grins.

I also saw Joe posted a new setup yesterday and he's currently running 30K on high traction clay:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1&type=3&ifg=1
I have been running 30,300K,14 and the rear inside wheel still lifts during mid-corner to corner exist. I did not notice it from the stand and I did not feel like a lost steering or speed.
a friend at the track video taped my car with slow motion. it was my first outing on high traction carpet with the EB410. I was able to TQ, but made a bobble and came in third in the main. I'm usually in the middle of the pack with my D413.
I have since changed my diffs, but haven't had time to hit the track
I now have 20,300K,9. I will try 100K in the center if that combo did not work out.
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Old 11-04-2017, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Allen Drebi
I have been running 30,300K,14 and the rear inside wheel still lifts during mid-corner to corner exist. I did not notice it from the stand and I did not feel like a lost steering or speed.
a friend at the track video taped my car with slow motion. it was my first outing on high traction carpet with the EB410. I was able to TQ, but made a bobble and came in third in the main. I'm usually in the middle of the pack with my D413.
I have since changed my diffs, but haven't had time to hit the track
I now have 20,300K,9. I will try 100K in the center if that combo did not work out.
Post what you think after some tests 👍.
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Old 11-04-2017, 06:02 AM
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Anyone try these? Looks like they will fit https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91114/p203912
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:02 AM
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To often we see top drivers running something new and talking like its the best thing since sliced bread only to find out that it's a handful for normal people. Well......Mason is a great driver that has spoke very highly of this buggy and has shown up at races locally and let a select few drive it but at the end of the day he is factory. Then last night happened with a borderline sportsman/expert driver in the 13.5 class. He is running a box stock buggy and gave me a run for my money. His buggy was stable and jumped and landed better than a Losi. Traction and steering seemed on point as well. If this buggy was that easy to drive and put it 2nd on the grid by that level of driver.......can you imagine what it will do for an expert driver? Tekno wasn't playing around with this project. Good thing Mason doesn't run 13.5 at LSR Speedway
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:23 PM
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First day out with the eb410. I was definately faster with it over my 22.4. Set track lap record by 2/10 sec. with a 13.5, which was held by a 1/8 ebuggy lite. Even faster than the mod 4wd buggy record by 4/10 sec. Stock setup except 20k/20k front center oil.
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