fast-ho-cars

iTrader: (4)

maybe somebody can answer this, several of us 13.5 drivers were discussing at the track, we had a driver show up with MIP 13.5 Performance Bundle Package, Gear Diff, AE B64 #17050 on his B64. the questions were around this:

NO part of this kit is to be used with a Locker or Slipper, drivetrain parts will wear out quickly and destroy components, use ONLY with the CENTER GEAR DIFF)


some of the drivers at our astro track are running like 1 mill or higher center diff oil, this effectively locks out a center gear diff giving the cars some serious snap and no give or slip. how would this be any different than a slipper that is very tight yet slipps?

rvrslt1

iTrader: (35)

I was told that they had done some testing using the slipper and it was twisting the axles. Using 500K in the center and plastic gears with 13.5 and all seems to work real well on clay track.

Vujkovicv

iTrader: (1)

I've had this car since February 23rd and I finally broke something! Tagged the wall in the sweeper at my local track pretty hard and the steering rack gave out. Made it almost 3 months. Not bad

slodsm

iTrader: (33)

I think they're tougher than they get credit for. I've broken a front arm getting too high in a sweeper and slipping out of the groove into a cement wall wide open.

I've not babied. Tuesday night I was fighting it out with the shop driver at Indy just trying to finish on the same lap as him and was pushing way too hard to the point two corners before the finish line I lost the body lol. You've really gotta hammer it to break it I believe.

FanBoi

In my OCDness I wanted my car to go straight while not using any steering trim and while having 100% travel on the servo. I noticed while using the FT 15.5mm aluminum servo horn and a Savox servo that there was no notch for the horn to be 90 degrees to the servo unless the servo was upside down. My options were one notch to the left of 90 or one to the right. Trying the notch to the left (looking at the car from the rear) I had to set the steering link to 14.4mm and I could only use 75% of the travel before the horn hit the post. Using the notch to the right I had to set the link to 17.9mm and when I tried 100% travel the ballcup would get lodged between the horn and the servo. I turned the steering down to 90% and now it drives straight with no trim, plenty of steering and without hitting the post or binding. The manual says the link should be 15.9mm and I assume that's with the horn at 90 degrees to the servo. I suppose I could use trim to get the horn straight up and down and then maybe I could get 100% steering travel but I'm going to leave it at zero trim, longer link and 90% travel. The horn almost hits the body but it doesn't. sup with that?

JsK

iTrader: (10)

That's what subtrim is for.

Vujkovicv

iTrader: (1)

I thought if you use subtrim the car won't steer equally as much from side to side?

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

Nope it centers the servo if your off by a spline. Doesn't affect anything else

tsair

iTrader: (3)

EPA is also going to differ car to car. Ideally it is the same left/right so that the steering arc the servo goes through is identical left/right, but the actual final number doesn't matter.

95%, 108%, whatever, it doesn't matter. It will vary car to car based on the steering design.

rcdave905

Okay quick question. Trying to convert my B64d to a B64 for carpet. Bought the slipper and drive axles and the sway bars. Trying to use the B64_2017_Haatanen_EOS4 setup
Three questions?
How do you achieve +3 front axle height?
If I don't buy a rear shim how do I do it myself? Height of shims? Is the shimming worth it?
I am a hack so not using the hard arms, does it really matter?

Tried car for the first time today and it is super smooth, just need to make a few more changes? Very happy with it.

Thanks.

E-Mann

iTrader: (40)

You need part 91676. That will allow you to run 3 and 0 vs the parts that come in either kit to run 1 and 2. The other option is to put the 1mm on top of the caster block and add another 1mm washer to the 2mm bushing to get 3mm.
Shim on that setup is 1mm. You can use 1mm washers but there are ones available for around $10. I run the shim on carpet and do think it is worth while.
Hard arms (if you can find them) just make it more sharp. I have run mine on carpet without the hard arms and it is fine but plan to add them when they are back in Stock. At least the front as I noticed the biggest difference on my B6 with the hard fronts.

rcdave905

Thanks

Costanza

iTrader: (2)

Anyone who got the JC or Lundsford turnbuckles weighed out the difference? Curious to see what the weight reduction is.

gus6464

iTrader: (2)

Since the new Tekno car is delayed for quite a bit and it's boring on club race days only have one car I was thinking about picking up the B64 as they have tons of parts at my track.

For high bite clay should I go for the B64 or the B64D? Seems like the B64 might be a better option? Going to run 13.5 on it.

YMMV

iTrader: (15)

The stock vs the JC ti turnbuckles were 1 gram lighter per turnbuckle (not incl the steering turnbuckle). For some reason I didn't bother weighing the steering turnbuckle but I can if you'd like.