Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

That's not uncommon for a 4wd car, look at a truggy as an exaggerated example.

thirtydaZe

iTrader: (39)

ok thanks, just wanted to be sure.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Interesting. It has been a while since I 4 cornered my SCTE but last time I did with ESC up front (RX8) and Pro-4 motor and Venom 7200mah battery it was pretty close to 50/50 front to rear.

thirtydaZe

iTrader: (39)

Right on. I should have mine together tonight, im interested to get it on the scale.

Thanks for the constant support guys.

fordohio

iTrader: (3)

I 4 corner scaled my truck. It was so far off. I grabbed the chassis and gave it a little twist. Then it was just as far off. But to the opposite corner. I decided that every time i crash, the chassis would probably twist this way or that. And then I decided just to run it. I don't know for sure. But I've heard some onroad guys scale there cars every time they crash for the same reason.

I did do a front to rear with the scale directly under the truck. It was close to 50/50 with the esc in front or rear.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Yes Sir I did. I cut the ears off the lipo holder and moved the lipo to the outer rail. That gives me perfect balance left to right. I glued in a plastic stop on the inside to keep the lipo pushed out. Then I used the 2.0 screw down lipo holder and TLR graphite battery strap to keep it in place. If I had not done this my truck chassis would be over 70 grams heavy on the motor side. No way I was going to add that much weight to the chassis. Always best to balance by moving components around first.

Front to rear balance is not that much different mounting Lipo either way. However, I was able to find the magic spot with lipo up front. It's worth checking your chassis balance anytime you have a bad crash at speed, change components such as battery size or other electronics.

Try doing chassis balance front to rear and left to right with truck ready to run, but without tires or body. The goal is to start with a balanced chassis. Use pins to get static balance. https://www.amainhobbies.com/hudy-si...d107880/p32203
I had to drill a few small points for these on my chassis to keep them in place.

No two tires will be very exact in having same height or weight. Use a set of new rims without tires if you want to do corner wts. The best way to do any better is a setup station. That's not cost effective and some say it's not important for short course trucks that will have tweaked a arms and such after hard hits just about every run. I tend to agree. So take weight and balance setup as far as you want and let your wallet be your guide. A setup station will eat up race funds, but all serious racers have one or want one.

88 Mclaren 5.0

I've got the front all completed and will be hopefully finishing most or all of the kit later tonight. Actually very impressed at the kit quality of parts and the fit and finish. I've had no surprises and it's been a smooth build so far.
Went with the King Headz center diff top plate with transponder mount, clamping hexes, TLR graphite battery strap and thumb screws as well. Getting there..... and anxious to finish up! Oh, what's the best way to set droop ?

thirtydaZe

iTrader: (39)

This problem has been solved, edited post to remove pictures.

Thanks all.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Droop or Ride Height?
This is how you adjust droop on the SCTE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSNp1asqlS4
This is how you measure droop from shock bolt center to shock bolt center: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5hmeckWUyM

I suggest you set droop screws to use full downward travel of the shocks for offroad tracks with big jumps. If you race small indoor smooth dirt or carpet you will need much less droop and lower ride height to prevent traction rolls. The actual droop amount or ride height is a part of setup often overlooked. Check these often and test to find what works best for you and your track.

Your body needs to be moved forward. I like mine touching the top rear of the front bumper. Each fits different and needs slight adjustments as bumper and body mounts will take a different set after crashed and time. Use the spacers on the shock tower body mounts to move you body forward so you don't need to drill new holes in your body or cut front fenders out. Might require longer screws. Looks like removing spacers from the front tower mount and adding them to the rear would do it.

You ask about droop, but sounds like you are talking about ride height. Can you be more specific?

Droop is measured from center of shock bolt top to center of shock bolt bottom with suspension unloaded, off the ground. Ride height is measured with truck ready to race with lipo and all then measure from bottom of chassis to the surface it is sitting on. Video above might help.

thirtydaZe

iTrader: (39)

Yeah, i was talking about ride height. After posting the pics i could easily see my problem. I get ultra indecisive when it comes to fitting a body when the holes don't like up from the kit.

My guess now is, after seeing a different photo, i'm to far back by i bet closer to ½ inch.

Thanks for your input, might just purchase another body at this stage. I'll take a closer look when I get back home.

Not to mention, i was a bit surprised at how much the suspension compresses when you take it off the stand, and setting it on its wheels.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

This is a good example of a different way to check DROOP. Its an even better way to make sure that DROOP is the same left to right. No body ever does this and its a great way to find bent suspension parts or warped a arms. If your truck is not performing like it did before that last race or crash this could help you find the problem quickly.

Shock length should be used first and both be same length. Then with a flat surface compress rear of chassis till it is firmly down and setting flat on a setup board or very flat surface. Then see if both sides of front suspension arms or spindles are landing on the front of the setup board or flat surface at the same time as you raise and lower it till it barely touches. The goal is having both touch at the same time. Flip it around and check the other end the same way. A good flat setup board makes this easy.

Most will be off a little after setting shock droop by length. Even new cars. If its more than 2-3mm I would look at both ends for tweaked suspension arms or other parts that might cause this. Maybe a shock end is not threaded on the same on each shock? Otherwise, just adjust droop screws till both sides land on the surface at the same time. Then flip the truck around and do the same for the other end.

Like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxGAu3WHFgg

TAKE NOTICE OF THE GUY IN THE BACKGROUND Freedom BABY. Let it all hang out

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Dynamite RC: EZ Body Post Marker Set: Dynamite (DYN5145)

Great tool (Proline makes a good one as well)

For anyone that has an SC car especially if you like aftermarket bodies this is a must have in my opinion. takes the guess work out of mounting bodies.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

The front of the body should be even with the bumper, so it is too far back.

88 Mclaren 5.0

Thanks guys! Great info ! I'm learning a lot

88 Mclaren 5.0

My front end went together well no surprises, no binding anywhere. The rear however seems to have some issues that I can't find. Very tight, looked things over and I don't see anything obvious. Loosened a few screws and rechecked, still binding. I remember reading something here someone had posted about a fix, but any quick insight would be helpful as I'd hate to have to pour back over the 82 or so pages in this thread. Thanks in advance!