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Old 02-20-2017, 02:16 PM
  #1186  
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Originally Posted by 88 Mclaren 5.0
So, it's down to the motor choice now.... I've got the 3.0 kit on the way, I just ordered the HWing XR8 SCT esc... Now I see the HWing 3660SD for heavy duty SCT, and the HWing 3652SD for light duty.... Looking for some good feedback here..... Do I "have" to go with the 3660SD ? Would that be mostly because of the weight of the 3.0?
I just installed to my 3.0 XR8 pair with HW motor 3652SD light the reason i got the light because the if i got the heavy duty 3652SD 4300kv motor and motor side is heavier than the battery side. Anyway, i came from r10.1 pair with 4.0T 550 orion motor but orion is more faster than HW with same spur gear and pinion but HW is same smoother than orion stuff. Accidentally plug in the battery polarity and orion ESC was smoke so i tried the new HW ESC and motor and it works great same as my orion.

Last edited by raved007; 02-20-2017 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 02-20-2017, 02:45 PM
  #1187  
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Just checked my spring perches, fronts are definitely smaller. Explains why they don't fully rebound even when setting at its highest. Still feel that it needs taller springs over all.

Can i ask what body post hole you guys have your truck's set to with the stock body? Even with Blockades and the stock wheels I'm getting alot of rubbing on the front fenders.
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Old 02-20-2017, 05:58 PM
  #1188  
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Originally Posted by cobrajet
Now I do have a question. I have a precut Flo Tek raptor and the stock pre cut body and the tires rub bad, maybe its just the tires, I have proline BFG bajas on the stock wheels unglued has place holders for more track oriented tires. I read somewhere that the new losi wheels are offset more then others to give the truck maximum track width. I've trimmed the Flo Tek for it to work up the body still is mounted a bit higher for it to work.
That body is not wide enough to go over most race tires and the tires you have are 1mm wider or more than race tires. All you can do is trim the body higher and or run the body post higher. Buying race tires also helps.

Originally Posted by 88 Mclaren 5.0
So, it's down to the motor choice now.... I've got the 3.0 kit on the way, I just ordered the HWing XR8 SCT esc... Now I see the HWing 3660SD for heavy duty SCT, and the HWing 3652SD for light duty.... Looking for some good feedback here..... Do I "have" to go with the 3660SD ? Would that be mostly because of the weight of the 3.0?
IMO, The fast guys will be running the HD motor. The new G2 versions are not that big or heavy. Can't go wrong with the most power. Can turn it down easy, can only turn it up so much. Might run cooler if not working as hard.

Originally Posted by thirtydaZe
this part number points to the entire diff housing, but concerning the screws,

TLR332001 x 4
M2.6 x 10mm

is that supposed to read M2.5? I stripped one, and want to replace it.

Also, as far as shimming the diff is concerned, can someone give me some part numbers? I know the x-ray ones, but what are people using around the out drives?
The newer diff screws are better than what was in past kits. Just buy another diff case. You will need it sooner or later and the stock screws have been proven good on the newer cases. Cheap and easy to find, the Traxxas screws work. TRAXXAS TRA2526 SCREWS 2.5X12mm.

The 3.0 includes some shims for the diff ring and pinion backlash. They are also included in the upgraded aluminum diff insert kit. Hot Racing also makes them. I'm out of town and don't have the part number handy but you can find them online.
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Old 02-20-2017, 06:09 PM
  #1189  
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Originally Posted by thirtydaZe
this part number points to the entire diff housing, but concerning the screws,

TLR332001 x 4
M2.6 x 10mm

is that supposed to read M2.5? I stripped one, and want to replace it.

Also, as far as shimming the diff is concerned, can someone give me some part numbers? I know the x-ray ones, but what are people using around the out drives?
im sure 2.6x10 is just as easy I wouldn't go to long, you could essentially be bottoming out, hence the need for new diff cases, i've run full 1/8 nitro seasons travelling the country and NEVER had to buy a new diff housing, I would call and find out, 2.6 ive seen that a lot with kyosho, but before you go throwing cheap traxxas screws in your race ride, id double check, another reason to be stocking up on diff housings, to thin a screw?
USE THE PROPER SCREWS, GET A RC SCREWS SET IF NEED BE,CANT GO WRONG THERE!!!
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Old 02-20-2017, 06:59 PM
  #1190  
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hahaha, yeah, and no, those are not race tires. Only set I had to set up the body. Very temporary. My brother in law uses them on his Slayer, Good on everything, Great on nothing. My Blockades showed up, they look to be about 2mm difference in width.

But thank you I didn't even think to measure the body width. The Flotek raptor is about 28.3 mm in the front wheel wells and 28.8mm in the back. The TLR Stocker was 28.9 and 29.9. Guess I wont be buying any more Floteks Raptors
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:24 PM
  #1191  
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Originally Posted by cobrajet
hahaha, yeah, and no, those are not race tires. Only set I had to set up the body. Very temporary. My brother in law uses them on his Slayer, Good on everything, Great on nothing. My Blockades showed up, they look to be about 2mm difference in width.

But thank you I didn't even think to measure the body width. The Flotek raptor is about 28.3 mm in the front wheel wells and 28.8mm in the back. The TLR Stocker was 28.9 and 29.9. Guess I wont be buying any more Floteks Raptors
Have you try the ARRMA SCT body? Oh man best SCT body that i have not like other SCT feel like wooble in the corner also great in huge triple jump.
My Favorite SCT BODY EVER.
ARRMA
JC Flowtek HF2
FTW SCT body Discountinued i think

My past SCT Body
JC illusion ford
Proline Flowtek Chevy Silverado 1500/F150
JC illusion high Flow
JC illusion Chevy Silverado 1500
Serpent SRX-2
Bitty Design SCT body
Proline Flow-tek Fusion.
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Old 02-20-2017, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cobrajet
Does any one know if the Losi 8IGHT-T E 3.0 battery tray https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...12/p451018?r=0 or even https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...241002/p265407
would fit without modding the chassis plate? This would allow me to run both sizes. Drilling and counter sinking a few holes isn't too difficult but I would rather not.
Part# lo231002 is a battery holder that will let you run a 2s or a 3s battery. I know the new losi scbe battery holder like this one will use both battery's also.
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Old 02-21-2017, 08:40 AM
  #1193  
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin
im sure 2.6x10 is just as easy I wouldn't go to long, you could essentially be bottoming out, hence the need for new diff cases, i've run full 1/8 nitro seasons travelling the country and NEVER had to buy a new diff housing, I would call and find out, 2.6 ive seen that a lot with kyosho, but before you go throwing cheap traxxas screws in your race ride, id double check, another reason to be stocking up on diff housings, to thin a screw?
USE THE PROPER SCREWS, GET A RC SCREWS SET IF NEED BE,CANT GO WRONG THERE!!!
Well, There is some good info and advice there. Using proper screws sometimes means using a different size or manufacturer. Double checking is good, triple is better.

The 12mm is max length and most threads for more holding power. No guess work, I measured and have used them since 2009 on V1 and 2.0 trucks. Yeap, those cheap Traxxas screws last and last. Hard to strip the head out due to the larger hex size. About the same hex size as all those 1/8 nitros your hauling around. You can strip the threads out of the case mainly because of the power you can put on the larger hex driver. The 2.6mm screw is not easy to find with machined threads and countersunk design, but if you can find them please share that info with us all.

The newer diff screws in the 3.0 truck are 10 times better than what they had on V1 trucks. I recommend those for the newest cases used on the 3.0 truck and yes you must buy the case to get them. Use the right size fresh hex driver, slight amount of grease and run the screws into the case to make threads before assembly to avoid problems. Yes, Losi could have provided a proper screw years ago. These new screws could also have a larger hex, but they are good with some caution on using a fresh driver.

Its hard to understand why they chose to ignore the issues like the screws after all the complaints in the V-1 thread. Same thing on 3.0 truck springs, rear hinge pins that are too short, super soft diff seals and same old diff washers that don't cut it. Little details that get old after building so many of these over the years.

Worth reading this if you are new to the SCTE platform that has been around since 2009 ish.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...oof-diffs.html

Diff shims other than stock are not HOT Racing like I thought, they are 3Racing. I just confirmed this. Sorry for bad info earlier. Just trying to help. 3Racing, Stainless Steel 12mm Shim Spacer 0.1/0.2/0.3m Thickness ,(3RAC-SW12)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3Racing-3RAC...8AAMXQyfFSBM6x
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:56 AM
  #1194  
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What tool are y'all using to measure ride height? Calipers?
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Old 02-21-2017, 12:08 PM
  #1195  
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Default Ride height

Originally Posted by 88 Mclaren 5.0
What tool are y'all using to measure ride height? Calipers?
Losi ride height gauge or ghea ride height gauge
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:47 PM
  #1196  
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Originally Posted by 88 Mclaren 5.0
What tool are y'all using to measure ride height? Calipers?
Jconcept ride height and Jconcept camber guage
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:00 PM
  #1197  
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A little dremel magic and you can make a tap screw to pre-thread the diff case.... magic

Attached Thumbnails TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread-screw.jpg  
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Old 02-22-2017, 06:43 AM
  #1198  
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I find the touring car style ride height gauge are the most accurate. Hudy makes an 1/8 buggy one that goes up to 30mm and Yokomo 1/10 offroad one which I've got goes up to 25mm in ride height.


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Old 02-22-2017, 09:38 AM
  #1199  
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Originally Posted by lowspark
A little dremel magic and you can make a tap screw to pre-thread the diff case.... magic

I like that. Is that the right screw for the SCTE diffs? Looks a little long?
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Old 02-22-2017, 09:51 AM
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Looks like a 12mm HPI or Protek screw to me. I always use the longer screws to. Not so scary when your cranking it down knowing it has an extra 2mm of threads biting in!
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